3-D cuts

[courtym74]

Hello all, I've been trying my hand at 3-D cuts (ornaments and such) and am wondering what type of wood, blades etc everyone is using. All I have right now is some pine from 2x4's that I trim down to use. I've never tried balsa wood but I can't help but feel that it might work better and cut easier. 

[don in brooklin on]

I have cut a lot of mini birdhouses and have used a lot of different hard woods.  Walnut, maple, cherry, ash, popular and some unidentified as I used to be a woodturner and I have a lot of scraps left over.

I typically have used a blade with no reverse teeth.  I use either a Flying Dutchman Polar blade #5 or a Pegas super skip #6.

I find that is is best to wrap the blank with packing tape as it seems to lubricate the blade.

I have done some things in pine or balsa too depending on the project.  I teach a scrolling course and we do a tulip and an ornament and that is always pine and then I use a #5 or 7 Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse as it leaves a nice finish.  You have to make sure the blade is sharp.

 

 

[Roberta Moreton]

What blade are you using? Do you have the wood in a clamp? Have you watched Steve Good’s YouTube on the subject?

[Sycamore67]

I cut my 3d ornaments from hardwoods such as maple, ash, walnut, poplar.  I think poplar is the easiest.  Balsa would be too fragile.  I cut with a FD Polar 5 or PS Super sharks #5.  Typically, I use 1-1/4" thick material.  You have to be patient cutting thick material and go slow.

These are some 3D ornaments that I have posted before and clamps I use.

 

[Rolf]

36 minutes ago, Sycamore67 said:

I cut my 3d ornaments from hardwoods such as maple, ash, walnut, poplar.  I think poplar is the easiest.  Balsa would be too fragile.  I cut with a FD Polar 5 or PS Super sharks #5.  Typically, I use 1-1/4" thick material.  You have to be patient cutting thick material and go slow.

These are some 3D ornaments that I have posted before and clamps I use.

 

I love that little reindeer inside. I would assume that you put that in after the main cut.

[don in brooklin on]

Clamps do help but I didn't build my own but just use 2 - 6 inch bar clamps. 

[kywoodmaster]

This year was my first attempt at compound cutting. I have used Poplar, Cedar, Maple and Pine so far. I think Poplar is my favorite.

I have used a combination of Olsen #7 PGT, Pegasus #5 and 7 skip tooth and Pegasus #5 and 7 mg blades. I think the #5 skip is my favorite. The skip tooth blades cut faster but the mg (reverse tooth) blades cut smoother. Guess you have to decide if you want to spend more time cutting or sanding.

I do not use the clear tape. Tried it but it seems to collect saw dust and somewhat obscures the lines for me. I use 3M 77 glue applied to the pattern and that applied directly to the wood.

I use (2) 3 inch spring clamps to hold the blanks. I have also used a hand screw/ parallel clamp before someone on here posted the spring clamp trick.

I made 30 of the Cedar initial ornaments (Steve Goods Patterns)  and several of the other type ornaments from various designers this year.

My advice would be as follows:

#1 Make sure that your wood is square!!!! I can't stress that enough. I will save you headaches in the end

#2make sure that your pattern is folded straight and on the proper line. a good crisp line directly on the corner of the wood is imperative.

#3 Take your time!!!  Let the blade do it's job.  Stop at the end of a cut before making a turn and let the blade catch up and straighten itself.

I have attached a picture of a few that I made this year.

Good luck and have fun!!!!

Edited December 14, 2022 by kywoodmaster
I suck at spelling

[Sycamore67]

Yes, I cut the Reindeer for inside separately and is A bit less than 1/2" tall. I have also cut small trees, cross, and stars for the ornaments.

In addition to having your wood square, you need to make certain your blade is square to the table.

[kywoodmaster]

7 minutes ago, Sycamore67 said:

Yes, I cut the Reindeer for inside separately and is A bit less than 1/2" tall. I have also cut small trees, cross, and stars for the ornaments.

In addition to having your wood square, you need to make certain your blade is square to the table.

Thanks for adding that. I knew I was leaving something out.

[Scrappile]

I ordered some new blades to try on 3D cutting.  I ordered  Flying Dutchman FD-LX5 XLblades and the Pegas #5 Skip.  I have only tried the Dutchman on once, it did a good job, but I have not tried the Pegas on yet.  

[Rolf]

Kywoodmaster.  Nice cuts and wood selection, and some good advice for those getting into compound cuts. 

[Rolf]

23 hours ago, Sycamore67 said:

Yes, I cut the Reindeer for inside separately and is A bit less than 1/2" tall. I have also cut small trees, cross, and stars for the ornaments.

In addition to having your wood square, you need to make certain your blade is square to the table.

Did you cut just the outer profiles of the Reindeer? 

[Sycamore67]

6 hours ago, Rolf said:

Did you cut just the outer profiles of the Reindeer? 

No, they were cut in all directions.  I had to go to a finer blade.  I do not know if I could do it now.  The arthritis is my hands has gotten progressively worse.

[Dave Monk]

I've been cutting a lot of chess pieces. They are big enough to cut without a fixture to hold them .  I've been using hot glue to hold them together while making the second cut.  Works quite well for me. 

[kywoodmaster]

1 hour ago, Dave Monk said:

I've been cutting a lot of chess pieces. They are big enough to cut without a fixture to hold them .  I've been using hot glue to hold them together while making the second cut.  Works quite well for me. 

Dave I am going to try Chess sets this year and I really like That pattern. Can you point me to where it came from?

[courtym74]

Thanks everyone. I've been trying an Olson #7 reverse tooth and usually just old bits of 2X4 cut down to 1 1/14.  I don't use clamps just hold the piece. Usually it's long enough that I don't have issues hanging onto it. Just curious what everyone else was doing for things like this! Thanks again for all the info. 

[Woodrush]

On 12/14/2022 at 8:10 AM, don in brooklin on said:

Clamps do help but I didn't build my own but just use 2 - 6 inch bar clamps. 

Me too 

[Rolf]

15 hours ago, Dave Monk said:

I've been cutting a lot of chess pieces. They are big enough to cut without a fixture to hold them .  I've been using hot glue to hold them together while making the second cut.  Works quite well for me. 

The hot glue is a clever idea! Would love to see a picture of the finished set.

Edited December 16, 2022 by Rolf

[Dave Monk]

16 hours ago, kywoodmaster said:

Dave I am going to try Chess sets this year and I really like That pattern. Can you point me to where it came from?

https://www.etsy.com/listing/278473108/scroll-saw-pattern-advanced-chess-set-2?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=chess+piece+scroll+saw+pattern&ref=sr_gallery-1-2&organic_search_click=1

[kywoodmaster]

1 hour ago, Dave Monk said:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/278473108/scroll-saw-pattern-advanced-chess-set-2?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=chess+piece+scroll+saw+pattern&ref=sr_gallery-1-2&organic_search_click=1

Thanks I will get it on order.

[barb.j.enders]

On 12/16/2022 at 12:20 AM, Woodrush said:

Me too 

Me Three!

[Roberta Moreton]

I use a skip tooth blade. It clears the sawdust better.