keeping a detailed pattern from breaking when cutting

[jscottj]

I have recently returned to scrolling after about 15 years away. I tried to do a pattern from SSW&C of a Santa and reindeer picture with alot of closely spaced cuts to create the detail. I stacked 4 layers of 1/8 baltic birch. It broke 3 of the 4 layers across one of the areas that was only about 1/16 wide between cuts. Will the box tape support enough? What techniques do you all use to stop the project getting ruined? There were alot of parallel cuts with only 1/16-1/8 spacing and they ran an inch or so into the project. Backing out was where it mgrabbed and broke.

 

Now I imagine that the biggest problem is the Craftsman 16inch variable speed saw I have from the old days. It has some vibration that I'm trying to find the best way to dampen it. I imagine the vibration of this saw as compared to a better one is huge, but for now its all I have. Any tips or suggestions?

 

Thanks much,

Scott

[Travis]

I use the Craftsman 16" too. I clamp it down to the table and that cuts down the vibration. I would love to have a nice scroll saw, but my old Craftsman works fine for me.

 

Stack cutting is probably your best step. Don't get it too thick or the flex of the blade will cut the top different than the bottom (especially if you have a tendency to put too much side pressure). I keep mine around 1/2" thick.

 

I use box tape to cover the fragile areas (you can add to the bottom too). That adds a fair amount of support.

 

Try to keep the pieces that would normally fall out and tape them back in. That adds more support. Its a bit tricky when stack-cutting though.

 

I always work center to edge. Cutting the smallest areas first before moving onto the larger areas. With really tricky areas, I make sure I have been at the saw long enough to "warm up" my skills. I'll even change to a new blade to make sure I have maximum control.

 

And lastly, don't be afraid to fudge the lines a bit. I'm guessing if the pattern you have has that many fine areas, the lines don't have to be precise to make the picture work. Feel free to thicken up the bridges a bit but cutting 1/8" inside the line. You can also enlarge the pic to get thicker bridges too (ie 8x10 to 11x14).

[Dan]

Everything Travis said plus make sure your blade is 90 degrees to the table. If it's off enough, those bridges will look fine on top, but some of them will be thin and possibly break on the bottom of the stack.

[jscottj]

Thanks for the tips. Center out probably would have helped. I appreciate the help.

Scott

[Joey]

Scott,

I had the same problem when I tried what you are doing. What I did

was, went to the library and got a book on stained glass patterns.

After a little practice you will be able to cut the eye of a needle

out with no problem.

Joey

[qlty]

If its a real tight pattern I will some times avoid making a sharp turn on a cut and instead come back later and cut into the line from a different angle,this also puts less stress on the blade.A lot depends on the type of wood as well.

[Mick]

Scott, i would cut the stack down to just 3 layers. I use a 2/0 blade with 28 t.p.i. for those delicate cuts. I assume you are using a flat blade. When cutting a number of lines that are very close together such as a grill on a car, stagger the entry holes so they are not all right together.

 

Mick

[toolbeltman]

You could try a zero clearance table top...about 1/8"hole.

[Beeber]

I have started using four pieces of painters tape and surrounding the blade on all sides. This eliminates the wide holes on the table top and helps hold the edges of the wood from being pulled into the hole. Makes a world of differnce and is easy to take off the table when done.

[jscottj]

Thank you for all the replies. I think a combination of several of the things mentioned by all of you led to the problem. I'm working on simpler designs for now regaining my abilities as suggested. My cutting seems to improve with each project. Thanks again for the help.

 

Scott