BadBob Posted February 9, 2023 Report Share Posted February 9, 2023 I getting ready to buy one of those plastic clips that @kmmcraftsposted about in another thread. I called Bushton to see if it would work, and they said it would. It has two holes, and my old metal one has one hole. They wanted the model and serial number, which I had on hand. I found my AWOL lower clamp, and this will keep me from crawling around on the floor with a flashlight in the future. In the same thread, a nylon washer was mentioned. I don't have one, and the parts breakdown doesn't show a washer under the lever. Is the washer an upgrade for my saw? Should I get one? My next question needs pictures. It was also mentioned that the "Connector Rod Pivot" (wedge) needed to be sharp for the saw to work correctly. Since I don't have anything to compare it with, can you look at the photos and tell me if this one is OK? Here are some photos of my top wedge: And the Serial Number Plate scrollingforsanity and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted February 9, 2023 Report Share Posted February 9, 2023 (edited) Yours looks fine. When they go bad, the wedge will have a rounded nose and the notch will be wallowed out to match. You can take a fine single cut file and dress the wedge and the notch but don't remove too much metal. Just clean them up. You definitely need a nylon washer to go between the tension adjustment lever and that wedge. You can probably find one at H/D for a few cents. The thicker the better. I mean by that in the 1/16" inch range. There are some that are thinner and won't last long. It acts as a "lube" point so that you're not rubbing metal against metal. If you can find a teflon washer, that would be even better. Edited February 9, 2023 by OCtoolguy BadBob and scrollingforsanity 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted February 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2023 20 minutes ago, OCtoolguy said: You definitely need a nylon washer to go between the tension adjustment lever and that wedge. I will probably order the washer from Bushton since I am ordering the clip and I've already paid the shipping cost. OCtoolguy and scrollingforsanity 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted February 10, 2023 Report Share Posted February 10, 2023 (edited) Zooming in on the photo I'd say the wedge is worn.. Yes you need the washer for sure.. As for the wedge.. As Ray said you can probably just dress it.. I dressed mine from time to time by just using a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface and sand each side of the wedge.. It's supposed to be quite pointed almost to the point of being sharp. Each time you dress it you're making it shorter though.. so eventually it'll mess with your upper arm adjustment.. so you'll think your blades are getting longer because the arm comes down too far.. may have to crank the lock nut on the bottom of the rod under the lower arm to adjust that.. Properly tuned the upper arm should come all the way down and meet the top of the blade in just the right position to clamp it.. Edit to add: Yours don't look too bad but proper dressing it is actually sending the upper arm in for Bushton to machine the V.. I think now days they machine it out for the updated " replacement " round insert V like the new saws have. Edited February 10, 2023 by kmmcrafts scrollingforsanity and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted February 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2023 1 hour ago, kmmcrafts said: As Ray said you can probably just dress it.. I dressed mine from time to time by just using a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface and sand each side of the wedge.. It's supposed to be quite pointed almost to the point of being sharp. I have granite plates and lots of sandpaper, so lapping the sides of the Pivot is a piece of cake. Compared to flattening the back of a chisel, this will be easy. As far as I can tell, the saw works fine. However, I have never had my hands on a new finely tuned version, so I could be wrong. The only new saw I have owned was a cast iron AMT. Blade changes were a pain, but they cut very smooth. I cut fretwork on it where the edges were so smooth they were glossy. OCtoolguy, scrollingforsanity and kmmcrafts 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted February 10, 2023 Report Share Posted February 10, 2023 (edited) 26 minutes ago, BadBob said: I have granite plates and lots of sandpaper, so lapping the sides of the Pivot is a piece of cake. Compared to flattening the back of a chisel, this will be easy. As far as I can tell, the saw works fine. However, I have never had my hands on a new finely tuned version, so I could be wrong. The only new saw I have owned was a cast iron AMT. Blade changes were a pain, but they cut very smooth. I cut fretwork on it where the edges were so smooth they were glossy. If that wedge gets too rounded you'll start snapping blades.. as it'll allow the tension to not be consistent as those rock back and forth.. Also if you're saw has the front tension lever there is an adjustment on the bottom of where the lever goes into the arm.. underneath there is a very small set screw. When you flip the lever over without a blade in the saw that lever should have some resistance to it about 1/8" - 1/4" before it goes to the "locking position ".. The very old saws didn't have that set screw and in those cases you have to replace the cam lever.. Or. you can just wrap a rubber band around the lever when it gets so bad it starts popping the blade tension lever up when turning the saw on. Edit to say: It doesn't look like that wedge has been oiled.. I believe that is supposed to take a drop of oil every 20 -25 hours of use.. depending on age the arm bearings are also supposed to be oiled and there is a spot up by the front tension cam with a hole in it.. drop of oil in that hole as well.. Edited February 10, 2023 by kmmcrafts OCtoolguy and BadBob 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted February 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2023 1 hour ago, kmmcrafts said: It doesn't look like that wedge has been oiled.. I believe that is supposed to take a drop of oil every 20 -25 hours of use.. depending on age the arm bearings are also supposed to be oiled and there is a spot up by the front tension cam with a hole in it.. drop of oil in that hole as well.. I cleaned it for the photos. kmmcrafts and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted February 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2023 1 hour ago, kmmcrafts said: The very old saws didn't have that set screw and in those cases you have to replace the cam lever.. My saw does not have a front tension lever lever. It is a two speed saw that required you to move the belt to change speeds. I never have changed the speed. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted February 10, 2023 Report Share Posted February 10, 2023 Just now, BadBob said: My saw does not have a front tension lever lever. It is a two speed saw that required you to move the belt to change speeds. I never have changed the speed. I kind of thought so by the red colored uprights at the back that I think are cast? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted February 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2023 7 hours ago, kmmcrafts said: I kind of thought so by the red colored uprights at the back that I think are cast? They look cast to me. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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