Trying a #2 UR (edit: #2/0) for the first time

[Matthew Simmons]

I did the entire be mine box using a #5 Flying Dutchman ultra-reverse blade, which cut like a dream. Sit in front of the blade, push, it cuts forward, it turns when you want it to, etc. It can be a bit aggressive at times (especially in 1/4" stock) but turning the speed down on the saw seemed to take care of that.

Then I started on this nature shadow box. Those turns are pretty fiddly, and the material is 1/4" plywood, so I decided to try a #2 UR blade instead of my trusty #5. My goodness the #2 is temperamental. The blade I put in only wanted to cut at a 45 degree angle, and was seemingly ready to go off in its own direction if I even looked at it funny. I made the mistake of trying to cut one of those long interior straight lines (layer 2 in the pattern, for example), and had a very bad time. I eventually gave up and put the #5 back in for those lines, saving the #2 for the fiddly bits.

 

Is this behavior typical, or is it just me? The need to drive the part at an extreme off angle to get a cut in the desired direction, the difficulty cutting straight lines (compared to the #5). It feels like I've traded in a dog for a cat. Bonus question: Is it normal to switch between say a #5 and a #2 for different parts of the pattern?

Edited February 14, 2023 by Matthew Simmons

[kmmcrafts]

My guess is you probably didn't have enough tension on the blade with the #2 Also make sure the blade is in the saw right end up? All the FD-UR blades do cut at a slight angle... but having the blade a little too loose of tension would make it want to wander bad..

[Matthew Simmons]

I had it at 4 and then 5 on my dw788, which I thought was the highest it could go, but I'll double check. And I did have the crimped end up. I'll keep playing around with it though. 

[dgman]

First off, welcome to the Village Matthew. I’m a bit confused as Flying Dutchman does not make an FD UR #2. There are #1, #3, #5, #7, #9, and I think a #12. I am of the mind that you always, always use the highest tension as possible. I used DeWALT saws for over twenty years and have always set the tension as high as possible, including the smaller blades such as 0/2, and #1. I alway thought that the numbers on the tension lever were unnecessary. I’m sure there are scrollers that adjust their  tension according to Wood type and thickness, but for me, it’s the highest tension as possible. You always want to hear a high “ping” when you pluck the blade, regardless of blade size.

[kmmcrafts]

When you install blade make sure the upper arm is fully lowered.. I used to push down on the top of the upper blade clamp area with one finger while I twisted the thumb screw.. not only did that but also with the other hand would hold the blade with the other hand and sort of pull up on it.. there are a lot of bearings in these type of saws and with all those moving joints can be slack.. you want as much of that slack out of there when putting in a blade.. only then are you really getting the true tension possible.. Also have to be sure the blades are not slipping in the clamps while applying the tension. 

Edited February 14, 2023 by kmmcrafts

[Matthew Simmons]

7 hours ago, dgman said:

First off, welcome to the Village Matthew. I’m a bit confused as Flying Dutchman does not make an FD UR #2. There are #1, #3, #5, #7, #9, and I think a #12. I am of the mind that you always, always use the highest tension as possible. I used DeWALT saws for over twenty years and have always set the tension as high as possible, including the smaller blades such as 0/2, and #1. I alway thought that the numbers on the tension lever were unnecessary. I’m sure there are scrollers that adjust their  tension according to Wood type and thickness, but for me, it’s the highest tension as possible. You always want to hear a high “ping” when you pluck the blade, regardless of blade size.

Thanks for pointing this out. It got me questioning my sanity for a moment, which led to a valuable lesson in blade sizes. Turns out they do make a #2 -- or at least one beginning with #2. It's a #2/0, which I'm now learning is the smallest possible blade they make (in UR, at least -- I haven't checked the other types). No wonder this thing looks basically like a piece of wire with some teeth attached. I guess I went straight from an easy blade to the hardest blade?

[Bill WIlson]

I think the Flying Dutchman #2/0 reverse tooth blade has historically been difficult to control.  I have no idea why, but I've heard complaints about the FD 2/0 for many years on all of the scrolling forums as well as from members of my scroll saw club.  I've experienced it myself, probably 15 or more years ago.  FD makes very good blades, except, it seems for the 2/0.  When I need a 2/0, I go with Olson.

[dgman]

Now that you have clarified the blade size, yes the FD UR # 2/0 is a bugger to control, even with 25 years experience, I can’t control them. When I need such a small blade, I go back to Olson Reverse Tooth 2/0 blades. For me, they track nicely.

[Norm Fengstad]

I like the ultra reverse blades, the the @2/0 is not a hurry- up and go blade but a real gentle, slow touch. It will wander if ot enough tension and will break if to much tension is applied. For a fine, thin line cut this blade will get the job done

[Matthew Simmons]

I picked up the #2/0 thinking I needed something very narrow and nimble to be able to handle the detail cuts from the nature shadow box pattern. Maybe I was wrong? What would you use to cut the interior lines on this house?

I was especially concerned about that 90 degree angle under the chimney, but looking closer at Steve's version a) his version of that curve is rounded and b) the width of his interior cuts seem wider than what I'm getting with the #2/0. What are the odds that those were made with a #3 or even my beloved #5? (The picture below is about 4"x4" IRL).

[Bill WIlson]

Personally, I would be comfortable cutting that with an FDUR #1, which has become my go-to blade for a lot of patterns.  I have a few Olson 2/0 blades, but rarely use them.  Actually, for veining cuts, I think the 2/0 is almost too fine, as the line tends to be harder to see.

[kmmcrafts]

I would cut it with a #3 myself.. I might even go back and open up the cut with a 2/0 spiral blade.. Sometimes those fine line details get hidden from the project when you step back a foot or two from it.. Opening the viening cut with a 2/0 is what I do on quite a lot of projects. Everyone has a different view on what width of those cuts should be.. as well as what blade they're comfortable using. 

[Roberta Moreton]

I think the blade was too small for the pattern and wood. 

[stoney]

Hi Matthew welcome to the village.  You don't say how long you have been scrolling but I think it should be against the law to use any blade smaller than a #1.  Just kidding!  I have been scrolling for a long time and can count on one hand the number of 2/0 blades I have ever used and I have cut plenty of fine detail. Tiny blades heat up faster, break easier, are harder to control, and in my opinion dull faster. My thought has always been to use a blade size that is easiest to use, lasts the longest, and gets the job done. JMHO 

[Scrappile]

When I cut 1/4 up to 1/2 depending on the wood. I use FD Penguin Silver blades #1 or #2..  very easy to control clean cut and you can get them with reverse teeth also. I also like pegas skip tooth blades also, they are a little more flexable but cut good.

[Matthew Simmons]

Thanks for the help everyone! I just ordered some penguin reverse 1,3,5 and some UR 1,3. We'll see how they work. This nature scene is a whole new thing for me - all of my other projects have been about removing wood from areas (ie there's always been a waste side). The interior lines have much less margin for error. 

Sorry for not introducing myself. By wall clock time I've been scrolling for years. By number of hours at the saw... 10 hours? 20 at the very outside? I've done a compound Love/You sign (?), a couple of 2D ornaments, they be mine box and.. that's about it. I like scrolling because it's detail oriented and unlike work when a piece is done, it's Done. 

Edited February 15, 2023 by Matthew Simmons