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Resin?


OCtoolguy

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I've often thought of the same. My question is... watching videos of people using epoxy on Youtube, they seal the edges of the pour area to keep the epoxy from leaking through nooks and crannies. How would you do that with a scroll saw piece that has, say, many cuts. I think it would be awesome if possible, not to mention you wouldn't have to worry about fragile areas. The epoxy would definitely stabilize any delicate spots. If you come up with a way to make it possible, please share your technique. 

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What brought me to this question is the tissue box covers that I have made. I've made quite a few with just this palm tree on the 4 sides and got to thinking that I might try to fill the palm fronds with a green tinted resin and then somehow fill the trunks with a brown tinted resin. I might have to alter the pattern to add a "separator" between the top and bottoms. 

20210810_093843.jpg

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did you watch that Finola Kingdon go to around the 1 1/2 minute  part.  I have don little pieces and I just used 5 min epoxie with some paint for coloring (enamel).  And i just put tape on the back.  for larger project you should follow what she does and get slower acting epoxie.  She doesn't state the brand she used, there are many different brands for different thing,  If I was going to do it on a big scale I would call 3M, explain what you have in mind and they can direct you to the best solution.  An they  have a pretty neat quarterly magazine you can subscribe to that gives lots of info on epoxies.  I have been receiving it for years, it is free. Raka is another source.  I use their epoxy in by boat building days, good sturr.  Raka.com

 

Edited by Scrappile
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30 minutes ago, OCtoolguy said:

Yes, that's what has triggered my thoughts. I'm not sure of where to buy or what to buy. I'm hoping for some tutilege on the subjec.

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Read what? I watched the video but didn't see anything to read. Ah, never mind what I wrote. I went back and read what you wrote. I misunderstood your meaning in the above post. I thought you meant there was something to read on her video post. Anyway, thanks for the info. Is there a diffence between epoxy and resin? Or is it just that we have come to call everything epoxy? I wonder if they have anything at the local Hobby Lobby or Michael's. And for the tinting, can anything be used? Acrylic paints? Or something special?

 

 

Edited by OCtoolguy
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Well I kind fibbed a little, I didn't realize it was a type of epoxy that I used back around 2008 when I made some key racks and keychains and I filled the cutout area with stuff that was called "Inlace" I think was the name of it. In the autobody world the stuff reminded me of colored fiberglass resin.. it was a colored resin and you mix in the activator / hardener mix it up good and fill the cutout area.. The stuff smelled like fiberglass resin too, some time ago the subject came up and I mentioned this stuff and someone told me it was actually epoxy.. I've never worked with the stuff that is actually called epoxy so I don't know.. seemed my fiberglass resin to me but they may be related. I'll try to find some old pictures of a couple of the projects I made with it. 

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Here is a picture of the one key rack I was making for my son. This is the only photo I have of it and was before it had any topcoat etc on it. Just resin filled and sanded. I think I got the idea from a post Steve Good did..  

On this project I used 1/8 Oak and then glued to a 1/2 - 3/4 backer.. then filled the resin enough to build it up higher than the main surface then sanded it down flush with the rest of the wood. 

 

EDIT To Add: This is where I got my inlace from but they no longer seem to sell it on the site, however they do list several distributors where you can purchase it. I was surprised to see Grizzly sells it.. I think of Grizzly for tools.. I'm not sure how small of amounts you can get of what is known as Epoxy but it doesn't take much and this stuff might be a better / cheaper option? Only downfall might be is this stuff is / was purchased already colored so if you need several color options maybe the actual epoxy is a better option.  

324058_185010318244417_1099278532_o.jpg

Edited by kmmcrafts
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What ever brand of epoxy you use, you have to follow their recommendations, I.e is it a deep pour(greater than 11/2” deep). You can use good quality packing tape but I prefer Tuck tape myself. The measurements for ratio hardener to resin are extremely important in order for the epoxy to settle. As far as adding color that is really easy you don’t need much. The stirring to get rid of bubbles is very important and also either a hair dryer or heat gun will help (not too hot and close with the heat gun)

I would recommend start with a small project and have fun.

P.S. you can find a calculator for the amount of epoxy require for your project, it is important because if you mix too much, it will be wasted and epoxy is not cheap.

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5 hours ago, OCtoolguy said:

I'm toying with using colored resins in some projects that I have in mind. I'd appreciate any advice that any of our folks might have to offer. What/where/how?

I just took a class this weekend on resins.  I learned that Urethane resins are really hard and you can mix them up and use them for lathe work or saw them without them "gumming" up.  However, if you use them with wood you need to make sure the wood has zero mosture in the wood (use a moisture meter), because they will foam up and make a mess.  Epoxy resin doesn't do that so as a background, etc they will work no matter the moisture content for the most part.  Also adding liquid dye vs powder dye can be an issue.  Liquid dye does add more liquid to the 2 part combo so it may slow the drying process, powder dye does not have that problem.  And they showed us ways to reduce the bubbles as well...  interesting class, quite fun... I too am going to give it a try now that I kind of know how it works.

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34 minutes ago, MarieC said:

I just took a class this weekend on resins.  I learned that Urethane resins are really hard and you can mix them up and use them for lathe work or saw them without them "gumming" up.  However, if you use them with wood you need to make sure the wood has zero mosture in the wood (use a moisture meter), because they will foam up and make a mess.  Epoxy resin doesn't do that so as a background, etc they will work no matter the moisture content for the most part.  Also adding liquid dye vs powder dye can be an issue.  Liquid dye does add more liquid to the 2 part combo so it may slow the drying process, powder dye does not have that problem.  And they showed us ways to reduce the bubbles as well...  interesting class, quite fun... I too am going to give it a try now that I kind of know how it works.

Did they say you absolutley have to have a gram scale? I am thinking of buying whatever is needed but not if I don't need it. In the video that Fiona did, she had a gram scale and it seems like it would be useful.

 

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I have used it for a few projects, but it has been a while and they were not scrolled projects.  My husband is interested in using in turning projects so I got him some stuff (including the pressure tank) and a book for Christmas but he hasn't had time to mess with it yet. It is important to follow the direction on mixing, etc.  It takes very little color mix to get the color desired in my experience. I don't think you absolutely need to have a gram scale but it would be helpful to ensure proper measurement.

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3 hours ago, OCtoolguy said:

Did they say you absolutley have to have a gram scale? I am thinking of buying whatever is needed but not if I don't need it. In the video that Fiona did, she had a gram scale and it seems like it would be useful.

 

So, for some you use a scale (usually ounces in the US)  and others are by volume, so you will need to look on the container but usually most are by weight.  I just use my kitchen scale which I bought at a thrift store for a few bucks.  

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I use a digital scale to mix epoxy but make certain to know if the mix is by volume or weight and adjust carefully.  I mix it in small plastic pill cups.  

Just my opinion but using epoxy is messy and not as easy as it looks and not cheap.  I use Bob Smith Epoxy from Amazon which is about $13 for 4.5 oz.  I have done it a couple of times but only with something special. My main use is for actually to glue things.

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20 minutes ago, Sycamore67 said:

Just my opinion but using epoxy is messy and not as easy as it looks and not cheap. 

You can say that again! I'm a great fan of mesquite lumber. Mine comes directly off the mill. Lots of worm holes and other surface imperfections. Normally, resin with (usually)crushed turquoise fills those holes. But, often just colored resin is used. Depending on the project's intended use, after filling the surface voids, it'll get either an oil based poly coating or, a flood coat, or two, of clear epoxy. 

I've yet to use epoxy on anything smaller than a bread box. It's usually slabs of coffee table size. But, filling those holes is likely akin to using it on fret work. 

I've tried several brands but, Total Boat is a clear favorite. 

Edited by Gene Howe
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If you are a member of the Scroller's Cafe - @Tj Brown recently posted a tutorial of how he has used resin with plumber's putty in fretwork to fill it in with colored fill. He showed several pieces he has completed as well. I've tagged him here so perhaps he can share it here in the Village as well. I'm not sure how often he visits the village but perhaps he will see this since I have tagged him. Edited to add - I've sent him a PM here as well so perhaps he'll be able to provide his info. soon.

Edited by meflick
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I use a cheap digital kitchen scale for measuring out different resins for my composite work. I use Epoxy, Polyester, Vinylester, basically anything I can get my hands on. Epoxies are generally not as "Smelly" as the polyesters so if you are sensitive to stuff like that it a much better option. I prefer the liquid dye as I have found it's easier to use but both the dye and powder work well. You don't usually need much to get the color you want. Make sure that whatever you use is at room temp, not cold because it won't flow well and the bubbles (if any) will not rise very fast. Longer curing epoxy would be better to get bubbles out for sure. 

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