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New to using a Dewalt DW788


Moocifer Joe

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Congratulations.  Is this your first scroll saw or just the first Dewalt?

The Dewalt benefits greatly when combined with a couple aftermarket accessories.  I would recommend connecting it to a footswitch, as Dewalts are notorious for flaky on/off switches.  Dust gets inside and eventually your saw won't turn on.  I had a footswitch on mine for many years and it eliminated the problem.  A footswitch also makes any saw much easier to control.

Also consider adding a lift mechanism.  There are a couple versions available.  Mine was the Jim Dandy Easy Lift Easy Lift System for DeWalt Scroll Saw DW788 – Jim Dandy Supplies.  They are a very simple device that helps raise the top arm up when doing fretwork.

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6 minutes ago, Bill WIlson said:

Congratulations.  Is this your first scroll saw or just the first Dewalt?

The Dewalt benefits greatly when combined with a couple aftermarket accessories.  I would recommend connecting it to a footswitch, as Dewalts are notorious for flaky on/off switches.  Dust gets inside and eventually your saw won't turn on.  I had a footswitch on mine for many years and it eliminated the problem.  A footswitch also makes any saw much easier to control.

Also consider adding a lift mechanism.  There are a couple versions available.  Mine was the Jim Dandy Easy Lift Easy Lift System for DeWalt Scroll Saw DW788 – Jim Dandy Supplies.  They are a very simple device that helps raise the top arm up when doing fretwork.

I started on an old Craftsman SS and up graded to a Wen LL2156. 1st Wen lasted 2 months, returned and ordered another, and it lasted 2 months, returned and ordered the Dewalt.

I do use a foot switch and will be getting a lift assist.

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Expect to have to install the table and adjust the angle of it to the blade.. I'd throw away that hold down foot but some people do use it. I'd also check the position of the blade in slot of the clamps. Some folks like to have it in the center of the slot and some like it over to one side or the other.. don't think it really matters so long as both upper and lower clamps are in the approximate same location. You don't really want the top one off to the right side and the bottom one to the left side basically is what I'm getting at. Do that first.. then check the blade to the table and adjust the dial indicator tab to zero it out.    Getting it all tuned and dialed in first thing makes for a better overall experience and will possibly save wear on the saw if it's running smooth. If you don't have a small square you can just check the blade to table square by taking a thicker piece of scrap and cutting a notch in it a short way and then back out of the slot spin the board around to the back side of the blade and if the blade is square it should slide right into the slot you just cut.. if not then adjust and cut another slot check again and do this until you get it to easily fit.  

Don't know how the new DeWalts are these days but I bought my first new one back in 2008 which was a type 2 and it was an awesome saw to use.. I bought the stand with the saw and also would have to say it was the most comfortable saw to sit at that I've owed so far.. Maybe the Hegner is right up there with the 3 legged stand. Agree with Bill, I had the Jim Dandy Easy Lift system.. which made sawing a lot more pleasure. Many folks might say to just tighten the screw where the upper arm pivots.. I would not do that myself as that is eventually going to wear out that joint and deem the saw junk since I believe you'd have to change the whole saw body so basically need a new saw, LOL. I had to rebuild with new bearings in my saw after about 3-4 years of pretty heavy use. But once I did that and used a high grade synthetic grease I never did have another issue. I sold the saw back around 2018 to my sons friend. He don't saw much but still has it.

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52 minutes ago, Jim McDonald said:

Great saw and even though some people don't like them, I hope you got either the stock light or some type of aftermarket light.

The lights make a difference seeing the black blades against the pattern.

Yes I have a good lighted (led) magnifier and I also wear an optiviser. I also convert all patterns to red lines.

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1 hour ago, Moocifer Joe said:

1st time I moved the blower tube it cracked.  No problem, I have fix for that.

You can take those apart and remove the broke one and put it back together, I've read there is a special tool you can use to simplify that.. I've had good luck just soaking the parts in very hot water for a few minutes to help them slide back together easier without cracking or breaking them.. 

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9 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

You can take those apart and remove the broke one and put it back together, I've read there is a special tool you can use to simplify that.. I've had good luck just soaking the parts in very hot water for a few minutes to help them slide back together easier without cracking or breaking them.. 

Thanks. I warmed it up good with a hobby heat gun. All set to go now.

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I had a used type 1 and after tuning it and doing the re-grease it was a great saw. I added the Pegas clamps and that took most all of the little vibration that it had out of it. I sanded the table top to remove the corrosion and grind marks until it was very smooth and kept it waxed. I built a 3 legged stand for it that went with it when I sold it. If I had not found a really great deal on a used Excalibur, I'd probably still have it. 

 

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I used DeWALT saws for over twenty years. They are a good saw. No vibration and easy blade clamps. This saw was designed to top feed as well as bottom feed. Give top feeding a try. If you like top feeding,you don’t need a arm lift. I had one on my first DeWALT, but soon found it was just in the way. For easy blade changing, remove the bottom blade guard. It just gets in the way. The last thing is wax the table with any wax that does not contain silicone like car wax. Silicone can affect you finish. I use Minwax finishing wax. 

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2 hours ago, OCtoolguy said:

I've been using the same can of Johnson's paste wax for about 30 years. It's really hard to use it up.

 

Me too, not quite 30 years but I bought a can back in 2007 and still using it today and I wax about 2 times a month all the surfaces of the saw tables bandsaw, tablesaw, drill press, planer, and I even do the bottom side of the dremel plunge router so it glides across the wood when I used to us it. 

I am getting close to being gone as the bottom of the can is bare but still around in the edges. When I found out they was discontinuing it I found a new can on eBay so I bought it. Should last me probably close to the rest of my scrolling years..

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55 minutes ago, AUTOMILE said:

I believe Meguires yellow car wax is a good substitute for johnsons

Nope! I just checked, it contains silicone. Never use any product containing silicone on any woodworking surface as it can affect your finish. Just don’t use car wax. Use a finishing wax. There are many available in the paint and finish department at any hardware store or woodworking store or catalog.

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