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Wax time


preprius

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1 hour ago, barb.j.enders said:

For those that have an EX - do you wax your table?  There is a "coating" on it, so I am not sure it needs a wax.

I had the same question about my Pegas and was told as long as there are no bad scratches, no wax needed. 

Good because I'm out of Johnson's. 

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5 hours ago, barb.j.enders said:

For those that have an EX - do you wax your table?  There is a "coating" on it, so I am not sure it needs a wax.

I do on my EX just plain floor wax, put some on with a rag let it dry and buff it. The wood slide right off the saw after. LOL

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I've said many times that I do wax my saw tables depending on how much use at least once a month and a couple times a year I also wax the whole saw stand and all.. The fine sawdust falls completely to the floor instead of sticking the the machine and stands.. much easier to take the vac and clean up the shop a lot better plus it wards off any corrosion that might try to set in.. Keeps the equipment looking good and well cared for even though I run the heck outta my saws.. they all look new still.. 

Edited by kmmcrafts
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23 hours ago, barb.j.enders said:

For those that have an EX - do you wax your table?  There is a "coating" on it, so I am not sure it needs a wax.

Yes.  I waxed mine as soon as I got it and as needed, ever since.  It's easy and only takes a few minutes.  I don't have concerns with moisture.  I just like the feel of the wood gliding over the waxed table on my scroll saw.  More so than even on my other steel & cast iron topped tools (table saw, band saw, etc).

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On 4/30/2023 at 1:21 PM, CharleyL said:

I always wax, sometimes 2X a day when I was doing shows. I also apply candle or paraffin wax to the running blade frequently. It improves my accuracy and makes cutting much easier. Blades don't heat up from friction as fast either, so last longer.

Charley

 

Thanks, Charley. I never gave that any thought. I wonder if all saw blades would like waxing. Why not?

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I've read about the paraffin wax so I got some a few years ago and I have to say "for me" I didn't see / notice any difference in cutting or blade life.. Maybe it works better for certain types / styles/ saw set-ups than others? I don't know but it wasn't worth the effort or money to buy the wax in my experience.

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On 4/30/2023 at 9:27 AM, barb.j.enders said:

For those that have an EX - do you wax your table?  There is a "coating" on it, so I am not sure it needs a wax.

Yes, I wax! Not only will it make your table slick, but it will help to protect the coating.

I wax everything that rusts or slides. Many of my projects get a coat of paste wax and a final buffing.

Some clamps should not be waxed. Harbor Freight trigger clamps will slip if you wax them.

A can of Johnson's paste wax has a permanent home on my workbench.

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When you are cutting with a new blade and at the fastest possible cutting rate without burning the wood, as the blade dulls you will begin seeing burning of the edges of the cut. You can slow the blade speed a little or wax the blade sides to stop this burning, or change to a new sharp blade. When this happens and you haven't cut very far, you can apply wax to the sides of the blade and it won't burn the wood any more, until it wears off this wax coating, but keep in mind that the blade is getting more dull. When you can no longer prevent the blade from burning at the desired cutting speed even by adding wax you have 2 choices, slow the cutting speed or replace the blade. Adding the wax to the blade lets you keep using the blade much longer before it's so dull that replacement becomes necessary. I rarely replace broken blades. I usually get tired of nursing blades because they have become too dull. Blades are cheap, at about $0.25 US per blade. Isn't the quality of your project worth changing dull blades before they become so dull that they reduce the quality of your project? 

With an old candle or small piece of paraffin in hand while cutting, waxing the blade frequently becomes 2nd nature and you will wax the blade every few inches of cut. It does make a difference. How fussy you are about burn marks will help decide how often you wax the blade.

I wax the table of my saws and also brush it onto the gears and ways of my table saws using an old toothbrush. The surface forms a dry crust that sawdust won't stick to, but the wax will continue lubricating the saw for a very long time. I use Johnsons or Butcher's Paste Wax on the tables frequently when cutting, to keep the work sliding easily. When it doesn't slide easily I can make errors, so I add a new coat of wax frequently.

Don't ever use Automotive waxes in your woodshop. Most contain silicone and silicone on your wood projects will resist stain and finishes, leaving what is called "Fish Eyes" in your finishing steps where the stain or finish will refuse to adhere to the project wood wherever the Silicone is. Silicone containing products are banned from my woodshop and have been for over 50 years. They are kept in my garage almost 250 ft from my woodshop. They make cars shine very nicely, but are a death sentence to woodworking finishes. Keep your auto waxes far separated from your woodworking.

Charley

 

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I used to burn edges sometimes while cutting Cherry mainly, and used to be terrible at it with Cherry until I learned to let the blade do the cutting... however since I switched from FD blades to Pegas MGT blades I have not ever had the issue.. I do tend to "like" to cut faster than slower.. not because I'm in a hurry to get products made, I'm just not one to like to watch paint dry so to speak, LOL. Everyone has their desired comfort methods and mine is cutting with the saw running pretty fast.. around 1500 ish strokes per min. so with the Excalibur it runs full speed on the dial.

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13 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Everyone has their desired comfort methods and mine is cutting with the saw running pretty fast.. around 1500 ish strokes per min. so with the Excalibur it runs full speed on the dial.

I run my saw as fast as it will go except when I cut thin stock such as 1/4-inch plywood. This may be because I used as single speed saw for years and it is what I am used to.  I would use a finer blade with the single-speed saw if the cut was too aggressive.

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  • 8 months later...
On 5/1/2023 at 9:45 PM, OCtoolguy said:

Thanks, Charley. I never gave that any thought. I wonder if all saw blades would like waxing. Why not?

I just started here and heard not to use car wax. Let hear some waxes to use, please.

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17 minutes ago, don309 said:

I just started here and heard not to use car wax. Let hear some waxes to use, please.

I use Tre Wax. 

HF sells a pack of 6 or so of white wax sticks. I use them on both scroll saw blades and band saw blades. It does make a difference.

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16 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

I use Tre Wax. 

HF sells a pack of 6 or so of white wax sticks. I use them on both scroll saw blades and band saw blades. It does make a difference.

HF???? Oh you mean the toy store LOL, well that's what I call it.

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It was good to see this thread again that @preprius started as a reminder to Wax my saws.  I use Trewax as well.... I have been waxing quite a bit as of late because our moisture is crazy high right now in the Northwest and it seems things want to rust.  I have never waxed my scroll saw blades and haven't felt the need to do that.... but I think I will try waxing my Bandsaw blades as they may perform better and last longer.  It was fun reading all the post on this again.  Thanks  for digging this up again!:)

Edited by MarieC
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