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While the Cat Is Away...


Dak0ta52

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4 minutes ago, Dak0ta52 said:

...I cut two and placed the "face" side of the wood together when I stacked to see if that would help with reducing the delamination issues.... it didn't! ...

All very nice.

As to delamination.   Was that Solid Birch wood or Birch Ply?

 Usually, delamination occurs when you remove the pattern if tape or liner is used.   For this case I find very good sanding before application of the liner (what I use) minimizes tear out.  Also, liner removal must be with the grain not against or across to insure no tearout.

However, what you discribe, sounds like a problem with the wood itself.  Box store birch ply is pure junk as far as I'm concerned, that is why I only use Columbia Solid Core Ply.  Pricy but a much better quality. 

Or, another cause could be the blades you are using.  Not the Brand, necessarily, but the number of teeth.   More teeth the smoother the cut will be in whatever material you are using.   Large blades with small number of teeth and slow saw speed will rip/tear the wood (especialy ply).  JFYI, I use, almost ecclusively, spiral blades.  I do get a lot of fuzzies on the back side but no, none, nada tear out or delamination.   For long straight or curved lines I will often use a Pegas #1, 3, or 5 MGT R  (depending on material thickness) with no noticable tearout.

Hope this info might help.

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4 hours ago, FrankEV said:

All very nice.

As to delamination.   Was that Solid Birch wood or Birch Ply?

 Usually, delamination occurs when you remove the pattern if tape or liner is used.   For this case I find very good sanding before application of the liner (what I use) minimizes tear out.  Also, liner removal must be with the grain not against or across to insure no tearout.

However, what you discribe, sounds like a problem with the wood itself.  Box store birch ply is pure junk as far as I'm concerned, that is why I only use Columbia Solid Core Ply.  Pricy but a much better quality. 

Or, another cause could be the blades you are using.  Not the Brand, necessarily, but the number of teeth.   More teeth the smoother the cut will be in whatever material you are using.   Large blades with small number of teeth and slow saw speed will rip/tear the wood (especialy ply).  JFYI, I use, almost ecclusively, spiral blades.  I do get a lot of fuzzies on the back side but no, none, nada tear out or delamination.   For long straight or curved lines I will often use a Pegas #1, 3, or 5 MGT R  (depending on material thickness) with no noticable tearout.

Hope this info might help.

Thanks Frank. You hit it on the button with the cheap box store birch ply. I'm sure it isn't my blades. I use Pegas and almost never use a blade larger than a #1. Actually, my primary go to blade is the 2/0 either spiral or MGT. I typically sand to 320 before applying shelf liner. I've tried painters tape, straight glue and shelf liner and it seems the shelf liner works best for me... what I mean by best is that it causes less delamination. I'll have to try removing with the grain to see if that helps. Thanks again.

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On 6/27/2023 at 9:52 PM, Dak0ta52 said:

Thanks Frank. You hit it on the button with the cheap box store birch ply. I'm sure it isn't my blades. I use Pegas and almost never use a blade larger than a #1. Actually, my primary go to blade is the 2/0 either spiral or MGT. I typically sand to 320 before applying shelf liner. I've tried painters tape, straight glue and shelf liner and it seems the shelf liner works best for me... what I mean by best is that it causes less delamination. I'll have to try removing with the grain to see if that helps. Thanks again.

Try sandind to 600 grit.  Remove dust well before applying linner.  Press gently to remove any bubbles but do not emboss too much with a plastic squeegee or the like.  Remove ASAP because the longer it is on the stronger the linner adhesive gets.  This may all help but a better grade ply will make a real difference.

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