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Rough out blade


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What size/type (not brand) of blade would you pick for rough cutting 3/4 poplar? I've been cutting some puzzles from 3/4 poplar and I like to lay them out and cut around them to get a roughed out more manageable size piece. I've previously used an old pin end saw I had with I think a number 9 in it. I decided however that I really didn't need 3 scrollsaws so I gave it to a friend. I'm thinking a number 9 would work but I'm curious what others think and also what teeth configuration you think. 

Edited by James E. Welch
My spelling and grammar are atrocious but I know big words. 😀
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I'm with Dan on this.. I use the same #3 blade to cut out the outline of a puzzle as I use to cut the actual pieces. I know some use a hand held jigsaw to rough out.... Me I like the little extra wood to hold onto when cutting puzzles out.. you get down to the last couple pieces and it doesn't leave much to hold onto. so when I cut puzzles I drill holes for the inside cuts and also one for the outline and then I just cut the pieces out of the larger block of wood. While I do not like cutting on a really large block / blank.. I don't mind something like a 8 x 10 ish size blank. Typically will lay out a large 6 foot board of puzzles to cut and will use the bandsaw or sometimes just a chop saw to cut the length down to manageable sizes like shown in the video of me cutting out a puzzle.

https://www.facebook.com/KevsKrafts/videos/801478010278251

 

 

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1 hour ago, TAIrving said:

Or miter saw.  

Or I could use a laser or cnc. LOL -- I am fully aware that there are other tools. Heck, I guess I could use a hatchet. 🤣

I was asking about what blade on the scroll saw to rough out the shape of the object. I have a bandsaw, a jig saw, a table saw, miter saw etc. I guess what I was expecting was some answers with whether a skip tooth number 9 works good for this or a number 12 crown tooth etc.. 

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If you are looking for a specific blade for this task, consider what attributes are required and which blade brings the most to the party.

Fast cutting of thick material, with little concern for backside tearout or even how well the blade tracks.

The above criteria would imply a large, aggressive blade.  Looking at blade charts, you could probably start at a #7 and go up from there.  As for tooth configuration, try to pick the one with the lowest TPI count.  A skip tooth blade will have fewer teeth per inch than a crown tooth or reverse tooth blade.  

Bottom line, roughing out blanks is a pretty simple task.  You aren't spending hours performing this task.  Precision  & appearance of the cut aren't big concerns.  You literally could use anything that cuts wood.  Don't over think it.  😉

 

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10 minutes ago, Bill WIlson said:

If you are looking for a specific blade for this task, consider what attributes are required and which blade brings the most to the party.

Fast cutting of thick material, with little concern for backside tearout or even how well the blade tracks.

The above criteria would imply a large, aggressive blade.  Looking at blade charts, you could probably start at a #7 and go up from there.  As for tooth configuration, try to pick the one with the lowest TPI count.  A skip tooth blade will have fewer teeth per inch than a crown tooth or reverse tooth blade.  

Bottom line, roughing out blanks is a pretty simple task.  You aren't spending hours performing this task.  Precision  & appearance of the cut aren't big concerns.  You literally could use anything that cuts wood.  Don't over think it.  😉

 

Thanks for the response. 

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