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I bit the bullet...


Gene Howe

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I bought a 250 pack a year or so ago and really like them.  My observation is that they save the mess, bother, expense of spray glue, and that is good enough for me.  But they do stick to the wood and present the removal problems.  So, I still use the blue tape or clear shelf liner most of the time.  

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I've been doing the labels now for about 10 years.. They stick better than the spray glues do as they are meant to not fall off a package.. so I still use the shelf liner. Probably the biggest improvement and time saver for me was switching from the blue tape to shelf liner.. The labels vrs spray glue isn't really a huge time saver so much as it is just less mess of the over spray of the glue.. It is nice I suppose to go straight from the printer to just peeling and sticking it on your blank. The shelf liner comes off mostly in one piece and very quick compared to peeling off those little pieces of tape. 

If you do both the labels and the shelf liner you just saved yourself a whole lot of time for another project. 

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I have never bought full-sheet labels, but I keep a stock of half-sheet labels for printing shipping labels and use them to print patterns occasionally. Usually when I need it fast and fast is more important. I don't use them often because I find 3M77 glued directly to the wood and removed by wetting with mineral spirits to be much simpler for my projects.

 

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I usually spray the project wood with sanding sealer before applying the pattern. Helps with fiber lifting when removing the pattern. I plan to print the patterns on to the label sheet and apply it directly to the wood. Maybe I'm missing something but, I don't see a down side. I keep a spray bottle of mineral spirits handy JIC the pattern get stubborn.

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15 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

I usually spray the project wood with sanding sealer before applying the pattern. Helps with fiber lifting when removing the pattern.

I need to try this the next time I cut something from wood that I know has issues with this although I would be using a brush on sealer.

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8 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

I usually spray the project wood with sanding sealer before applying the pattern. Helps with fiber lifting when removing the pattern. I plan to print the patterns on to the label sheet and apply it directly to the wood. Maybe I'm missing something but, I don't see a down side. I keep a spray bottle of mineral spirits handy JIC the pattern get stubborn.

I've always been going to try the mineral spirits method. If it works then I wouldn't need to buy shelf liner.. but then would need to buy mineral spirits.. as I don't use it for anything else so that's partly why I haven't tried it, lol 

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1 hour ago, kmmcrafts said:

I've always been going to try the mineral spirits method.

It does not take much mineral spirits. I brush it on with the same brush I use to paint unless it is a large piece. For large pieces, and sometimes if I have a lot of little ones, I will pour mineral spirits on a cookie sheet or other flat bottom container that is the appropriate size and dip them.

This method has a downside. I need to let the mineral spirits evaporate before I can do almost anything else to them.

The advantages are:

The pattern will come off even the most delicate fretwork piece in one piece. I never tried it, but I am sure you could glue it on another piece of wood and cut it again. No more picking bits of pattern and tape off while worrying about breaking it.

No more pieces of wood peeled off and parts ruined.

3M77 will stick tight to just about any wood surface. I don't need to do any sort of surface preparation before I cut the pieces. The advantage here is a lot less sanding. It is much easier and faster to sand the pieces after they are cut out. I recently cut some ornaments from a piece of wood with a lot of tear out. After cutting it, a few swipes on the belt sander with a 60-grit sanding belt, and you are done.

What I actually use is labeled paint thinner at my local big orange store. I learned while working in a factory that made vinyl carpet backings that this was the same as mineral spirits but somewhat less refined. We bought it in 55-gallon drums. I never touch anything that says it is odorless.

 

 

 

Edited by BadBob
correction.
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I too use shelf liner then spray the back of the pattern then place it on top of the shelf liner. If I have fret work that is fragile I use my wifes old hair dryer and heat the pattern and shelf liner for 2 or 3 minutes. Shelf liner and pattern come right off. Be careful when removing it from fragile fret work.

Jerry

Edited by jerry walters
Forgot to add this earlier
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I use odorless Mineral Spirits exclusively.  Not to be confused with odorless paint thinner.  Odorless mineral spirits should be clear, like water.  I fill a plastic spray bottle (like a Windex bottle) and spritz it on the pattern.  Let it soak in for a couple minutes, then the pattern comes right off.  I'll usually spray the wood again and wipe with a rag to remove any remaining glue residue.  Let it dry, then a light sanding and it's ready to go.

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36 minutes ago, Bill WIlson said:

I use odorless Mineral Spirits exclusively.  Not to be confused with odorless paint thinner.  Odorless mineral spirits should be clear, like water.  I fill a plastic spray bottle (like a Windex bottle) and spritz it on the pattern.  Let it soak in for a couple minutes, then the pattern comes right off.  I'll usually spray the wood again and wipe with a rag to remove any remaining glue residue.  Let it dry, then a light sanding and it's ready to go.

Pretty much my process, too.

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35 minutes ago, TAIrving said:

Should I be concerned about hazardous VOCs when spraying mineral spirits and/or paint thinner in my enclosed workshop?  

Depends on your situation. How much ventilation do you have, and how big is the shop?

Edited by BadBob
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1 hour ago, TAIrving said:

Should I be concerned about hazardous VOCs when spraying mineral spirits and/or paint thinner in my enclosed workshop?  

I pulled this from the MSDS for Sunnyside Odorless Mineral Spirits;

Vapors may cause irritation to nose, throat and respiratory tract. Breathing of high vapor concentrations may result in headaches, dizziness and other signs of nervous system depression. These effects have been observed after misuse or abuse of this product. When used in a reasonable and foreseeable manner, no adverse effects are anticipated from exposure to this product.

 

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Like I've always said, those labels are made with an adhesive that is not meant to come back off.. you don't want labels falling off packages and having lost mail..They're made with different adhesive.. I would try it on some scrap wood before you have hours into a project only to ruin it trying to remove a label.. That said, I do on occasion remove labels from boxes that I might be able to reuse by heating it with a hair dryer and it peels right off a box..  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a Quickie....  I along with many have used about All methods to adhere a pattern.

I was a 100% believer in using the Odor Less Spirits sprayed on.  It just wasn't for me.

When I ran across using the Self Stickum I never looked back.  I very much Disliked

using the Spray Glue.  So Messy and it Smells Terrible.  
Still have to use the tape under the Self Stickum paper.  I did ask and did buy and did try a Painters Tape that is Low in Adhesive.  Color is Lavender.  Anyway this is my Feelings.

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On 8/2/2023 at 7:45 AM, Bill WIlson said:

I use odorless Mineral Spirits exclusively.  Not to be confused with odorless paint thinner.  Odorless mineral spirits should be clear, like water.  I fill a plastic spray bottle (like a Windex bottle) and spritz it on the pattern.  Let it soak in for a couple minutes, then the pattern comes right off.  I'll usually spray the wood again and wipe with a rag to remove any remaining glue residue.  Let it dry, then a light sanding and it's ready to go.

I do the same process, and it works like a charm. I tried blue painters tape and shelf liner. Prolonging the blade life, in my opinion, is negligible using either tape or liner. So, for me it’s Super 77 on pattern, and applied directly to wood. 

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