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I am Puzzled! Can you ID each species of wood?


rafairchild2

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Like all of us, I have a couple of boxes of cast-off wood, eg. waste wood, from previous projects.  I decided to do a simple 12-piece animal puzzle, using nothing but cast-off pieces.  I am hoping this will be a gift for a young man who used to live with us when he left an abusive home life.  10+ years later, he is now married and successfully in a well-paying career.  His wife is pregnant again (lost 2 previous pregnancies), and I am praying for this child to go full-term. 

Thus the gift will be waiting.

As you can see each piece was done individually, thus it was imperative that I nailed the lines dead center on the cut.  Mainly used FD Ultra Reverse #5, for the 300 Janka pieces I used a Pegas Modified Geometry #5, and then used a spiral blade for the accent cuts such as the ears and mouths.

I decided I wanted to go all-natural color, no paint or stains, thus using 12 different species of wood...  Janka from 400 to nearly 3000... Can you list what wood I used?

I completed the rough cut stage and will next profile the edges, and final fitting.  From there I am going to build a frame and backer.

Below is the loose fit after cutting.

Edit to add: The Octopus is not showing its true color, a hint... it is one of the higher Janka's.
Also, wound up redoing the fish, using Black Limba so it stands out more from the lighter browns. Perfect fit.

puzz1.jpg

fish.jpg

Edited by rafairchild2
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2 hours ago, Rolf said:

I see purpleheart, yellowheart, sapelle, bubinga?. maple, holly, Oak.....

Thanks Rolf.

Yes, I treat this like Intarsia, I go slow and nail the lines.  I only had to do a little extra sanding on the octopus so it fit a little looser. Everything fit wonderfully. Using a #5, and splitting the lines, the kerf gives me the fit I want.  Not too "sticky" as this is for little kids, and it needs to come apart and put together with easy sliding.

I just finished profiling the edges, mop sanding, and finished with raw linseed oil. 

For that, I take a tin pie plate and put about 1/4 inch of the linseed oil in it.  Then I dip each piece... both sides and use a foam brush to mush oil into the nooks and crannies.  From there I take a cloth and hand rub all the excess oil off and air dry.  After a few days of curing, I will take 3000-grit paper and get the final finish.

I will post another photo with the linseed oil finish shortly.

Edited by rafairchild2
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I recently purchased a set of carbide router bits with 3/16 brass pilot bearings. There was a special sale of 3 bits 1/16, 1/8 and 1/4. I use the 1/16 roundover for my puzzle pieces. It saves me a huge amount of time in sanding.  I have it mounted in a router table and made myself a zero clearance insertBrass Pilot Router Bits.  

Edited by Rolf
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15 minutes ago, Rolf said:

I recently purchased a set of carbide router bits with 3/16 brass pilot bearings. There was a special sale of 3 bits 1/16, 1/8 and 1/4. I use the 1/16 roundover for my puzzle pieces. It saves me a huge amount of time in sanding.  I have it mounted in a router table and made myself a zero clearance insert.  

Rolf

Can you post a photo of your setup?  This sounds like something I should consider.  I am big on profiling my work, and this sounds like a logical next step.

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15 hours ago, rafairchild2 said:

Rolf

Can you post a photo of your setup?  This sounds like something I should consider.  I am big on profiling my work, and this sounds like a logical next step.

I replaced my Craftsman router table a couple of years ago with a complete setup from Infinity. Absolutely love it!!

That said, to answer your question. I made the zero clearance insert(white) it snaps into the standard table insert(red). I have used the Dremel router bits years ago in the Dremel router but it was all a bit flimsy for my liking. I use a MAC mop to soften any end grain tearout.

This is the 1/16 bit.

 

Brass pilot 1.jpgBrass pilot 2.jpgMAC mop.jpg

Edited by Rolf
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On 9/18/2023 at 2:42 PM, Dak0ta52 said:

That looks like it would be a bugger to put together. I'm sure it was a butter to cut. You did a great job.

Since each piece is cut separate vs a segmentation, the key is going slow so you split the lines perfectly.  this will give you the needed fit.  The regular sanding will loosen the pieces up a bit so the child can play with it.  Additionally, I finished the back side the same way with the profiling of the edges, so they can make a reverse puzzle or just play with the pieces individually. 

p1.jpg

p2.jpg

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22 hours ago, barb.j.enders said:

What is the dotted line for on those?

It seems the designer made the dotted line so you can rough cut on that, and then sand to the solid line. I do not like doing that.  I split the solid line with my #5 Ultra Reverse.

Edited by rafairchild2
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7 hours ago, Rolf said:

That seems like a lot of extra work! Then again it depends on what scroll saw the have.

I have an Excalibur that I have tuned up really well.  The cutting is not so bad, though I am slow anyway, as I want to be as accurate as possible on all my cuts, it's the hand finishing that takes time.  I sand from about ~100 grit to 1500.  I do a mop sanding at 220, but everything above is by hand.  After the linseed oil/finish cures, I go back at 3000 grit.

These are one-off (or two) gifts, so time is not an issue.  I want to have a well-made and finished product to give.

Edited by rafairchild2
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