Jukebox to Junkbox

[barb.j.enders]

Well,  this is the latest off the saw and paint table.  It will be heading to the bin.  Not happy with it at all.  There are a couple of pieces that will only fit from one direction. Yes, I pushed using a dull blade.  And yes, I know I should have changed it earlier.  This is also the first time that the Unicorn Spit has made the kerf narrower.  I used a #5 Precision Skip on the poplar that I recently bought.  I think the biggest issue is that the wood isn't a dry as it should have been.  I guess it will be off to the store to buy some other wood.

[Scrappile]

I like the idea, hint, the thick Delta Acrylic paints can hide a multitude of mistakes..... 

[Denny Knappen]

Still looks great, Barb.

[FrankEV]

A couple of things.  

I'm not a puzzle make. But, for what its worth, someone on here recently mentioned some mfgr makes a puzzle blade. I know nothing more.

I think you really need to concentrate on your cutting skills.  I see too many cutting boo-boos. Turning corners is tough to do cleanly, but it is a must for this kind of work that you have attempted.  Slow down YOU and the saw speed. And, ofcourse, don't push and do use sharp blades.

Then, the paint work is poor, and that is being kind.  Not sure what wood you use, but it seems the pieces were not sanded adequately before you painted.  If the wood is very grainy, soft or porus, a prime coat, sanded smooth, is needed befor painting.   For small pieces like these I might use the small artist spray cans that come in many colors rather than brush work that just can't get the look you were after. 

As I  said, I'm not a puzzle maker, but would think if pieces are to be painted, all surfaces of the individual pieces should be painted.  Don't really know what the protocol is.

I hope you take my critique without offense.  I think the project is very unique and could be outstanding. Your attempt and decision to scrap is/was very brave.

BTW, small pieces of solid wood, if not dry, can be further dried in a microwave.  Thirty secons on high, let cool 5 minutes, repeat until dry.  Really need a moisture meter to know.  To be considered dry, moisture content should be under 7%.

Edited September 27, 2023 by FrankEV

[heppnerguy]

I think if it were mine, and I do not see the miss cut pieces, I would put another coat of paint over the previous ones and I bet you would like it a whole lot better and some of the  'flawed areas' would almost magically disappear.

Dick

heppnerguy

[wombatie]

I know how you feel, a similar thing happened to me recently with a kitten puzzle but I have put it on one side and I will do some serious sanding when I have time.
Maybe you could do the same maybe next year when you have more time.

Marg

[barb.j.enders]

7 hours ago, wombatie said:

I know how you feel, a similar thing happened to me recently with a kitten puzzle but I have put it on one side and I will do some serious sanding when I have time.
Maybe you could do the same maybe next year when you have more time.

Marg

Thanks Marg,

I think that is what I am going to do.  I know that I rushed it.  I have a sale coming up next month and am worried about having stock.  Hubby talked me off the edge by simply stating - "if you only have 3, then you only have 3! And then you might sell out!"

[rdatelle]

I like it Barb. Your to hard on yourself. I love the old jukeboxes. 

[barb.j.enders]

On 9/27/2023 at 12:55 PM, FrankEV said:

I hope you take my critique without offense.  I think the project is very unique and could be outstanding. Your attempt and decision to scrap is/was very brave.

No offense taken, but WOW, that was pretty harsh!  

There are special puzzle blades, and I do have some, but for this type of puzzle the standard is a #5. 

The painting is the biggest reason I was planning to scrap it.  I have had so many comments about sanding the paint off and restarting, that I will consider it in the new year.  I had hoped to have this for a craft sale.

The wood is poplar and normally takes paint/stain very well.  This is from a small mill that had cut the slab, from a trunk that had been cut a couple of years ago.  He had told me it was dry.  Given that the boards I purchased have now cupped, I don't think they were dry enough.  I was able to get this chunk out of a flat section.

I posted mostly to show others that things don't always work out!

[FrankEV]

1 hour ago, barb.j.enders said:

No offense taken, but WOW, that was pretty harsh!  

There are special puzzle blades, and I do have some, but for this type of puzzle the standard is a #5. 

The painting is the biggest reason I was planning to scrap it.  I have had so many comments about sanding the paint off and restarting, that I will consider it in the new year.  I had hoped to have this for a craft sale.

The wood is poplar and normally takes paint/stain very well.  This is from a small mill that had cut the slab, from a trunk that had been cut a couple of years ago.  He had told me it was dry.  Given that the boards I purchased have now cupped, I don't think they were dry enough.  I was able to get this chunk out of a flat section.

I posted mostly to show others that things don't always work out!

I apologise.  I feel when something needs to be adderessed we should not hesitate to say so, and just not want to hurt a feeling. 

Sorry, but I did see cutting flaws.  And, the painting was....  I was just trying to help.

Store bought wood is kiln dried.  And, that being said, I often find the wood from places like Lowes is not completely dry.  Wood cut from a trees localy and not kiln dryed needs about 3-4 years to dry and must be properly stacked so air can get around all the time. Usualy does not happen.  If you want good project ready wood, order from Ochooh or the like.  You pay for what you get.

[Charlie E]

I love the pattern Barb and the colors you chose are great! I've had so many puzzle pieces that would only go one way I couldn't count them. You're right, things most certainly don't always work out. Some people need to stop taking themselves so seriously and keep their negativity to themselves. 

[Bill WIlson]

15 hours ago, barb.j.enders said:

This is from a small mill that had cut the slab, from a trunk that had been cut a couple of years ago.  He had told me it was dry.  Given that the boards I purchased have now cupped, I don't think they were dry enough.  I was able to get this chunk out of a flat section.

 

I was kind of afraid you might run into these kinds of problems from one of your earlier threads about sanding and prepping rough cut boards.  Unfortunately, wood in log form will take a lot longer to dry than the same volume of wood sawn into boards.  Wood will air dry much faster and more evenly, once it has been sawn into boards and properly stacked & stickered, allowing the release of moisture from all surfaces.  Kiln drying is preferred for a lot woodworking, but air dried lumber can also be used, provided some care is taken in preparing and using the lumber.

If you have any boards left from that slab, I would suggest stacking them flat, with narrow strips of wood evenly spaced, between each layer.  Set something heavy on top to help keep them flat, but be sure to the free flow of air all around the boards.  Something similar to this picture;

Stack them in a dry space, where they can get adequate air circulation.  Minimize large swings in humidity and temperature, if possible.  Let them set for 6-12 months.  Hopefully you can salvage the rest of the wood.  Good luck.

[Rolf]

I would just sand it down and repaint.  I am surprised that you didn't get better coverage with the Unicorn spit.  I have been adding a bit of Flow Medium to it.  I have also been dipping my wood in sanding sealer (50/50) alcohol and Zinser. It will raise the grain a bit and I hit it with a 220 MAC mop. Also, just for fun been playing around with my airbrush and alcohol dyes.

Barb, who makes the Precision skip blade? 

The "Puzzle blade" is a FD (flying Dutchman blade) is way to fine a blade for this. 31 TPI (.023W x .006" thick)

To air dry wood it takes ~ 2-3 months /inch of thickness.

[barb.j.enders]

15 hours ago, FrankEV said:

I apologise.  I feel when something needs to be adderessed we should not hesitate to say so, and just not want to hurt a feeling. 

Sorry, but I did see cutting flaws.  And, the painting was....  I was just trying to help.

Store bought wood is kiln dried.  And, that being said, I often find the wood from places like Lowes is not completely dry.  Wood cut from a trees localy and not kiln dryed needs about 3-4 years to dry and must be properly stacked so air can get around all the time. Usualy does not happen.  If you want good project ready wood, order from Ochooh or the like.  You pay for what you get.

Frank,  I know the painting was s**t.  I clearly wasn't in the right head space to cut this project.  

I have been having great difficulty in finding store bought poplar here in Winnipeg.  Before pandemic, Lowes did carry wider & longer boards of poplar.  When I went a year ago, all they had was 6" wide and short boards.  Lowes was the only one of the big three that ever had the poplar.  I do not own equipment, nor am I particularly interested in purchasing, to manufacture appropriately sized wood.  I am in Canada, so ordering from Ochooch is not really an option.  The exchange rate adds at least 30% and shipping is usually expensive.  

 

[barb.j.enders]

43 minutes ago, Bill WIlson said:

If you have any boards left from that slab, I would suggest stacking them flat, with narrow strips of wood evenly spaced, between each layer.  Set something heavy on top to help keep them flat, but be sure to the free flow of air all around the boards.  Something similar to this picture;

Bill,  Thanks for your input.  I did stack the boards in my garage with some wood spacing it.  I will go and add some weights to them.  I don't have anywhere to lay them out away from temperature swings.  Winters here can be as low ad -40 C and summers can be +40C.

[barb.j.enders]

7 minutes ago, Rolf said:

Barb, who makes the Precision skip blade? 

I ordered them from Garnet Hall at Sawbird.com.  He is in Saskatchewan!  (birth province) 

[don in brooklin on]

Barb

I just order some popular from KPJ hardwoods and it is great.  It is 9 1/4 by 3/4 is 5.25 LF. My local supplier is 6.45 LF.  You have to pay for shipping but I was ordering some BB so it wasn't too bad. 

I had a stacking frog puzzle that I dyed with water base stain and the pieces would not go back together.  I wait about 3 week and it is all good.

I use the popular and dyed it with water based stain and it was good dry in about a day.  I would show the piece but I copied a laser product.

PS:  I like the juke box and the colours.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 29, 2023 by don in brooklin on

[Bill WIlson]

3 hours ago, barb.j.enders said:

Bill,  Thanks for your input.  I did stack the boards in my garage with some wood spacing it.  I will go and add some weights to them.  I don't have anywhere to lay them out away from temperature swings.  Winters here can be as low ad -40 C and summers can be +40C.

controlling temperature is much less important than controlling humidity and airflow.  Air dried boards will dry in humid conditions, but it will take longer and the moisture content may only get down to 12-15% or so at the lowest.  For general woodworking the ideal MC is half that.  That can be achieved by letting most of the drying take place outside and then bringing the wood needed for a given project inside to a more controlled space and letting it acclimate for a couple weeks or so.

[Gene Howe]

A good moisture meter might come in handy. Here in "Aridzona", we don't worry. About it, roo much. It's been said that trees felled in our forests are dry before they hit the ground.

[barb.j.enders]

22 hours ago, don in brooklin on said:

Barb

I just order some popular from KPJ hardwoods and it is great.  It is 9 1/4 by 3/4 is 5.25 LF. My local supplier is 6.45 LF.  You have to pay for shipping but I was ordering some BB so it wasn't too bad. 

I had a stacking frog puzzle that I dyed with water base stain and the pieces would not go back together.  I wait about 3 week and it is all good.

I use the popular and dyed it with water based stain and it was good dry in about a day.  I would show the piece but I copied a laser product.

PS:  I like the juke box and the colours.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the info Don!  I will look into that.  I ordered their project ply earlier.

[Rolf]

22 hours ago, don in brooklin on said:

Barb

I just order some popular from KPJ hardwoods and it is great.  It is 9 1/4 by 3/4 is 5.25 LF. My local supplier is 6.45 LF.  You have to pay for shipping but I was ordering some BB so it wasn't too bad. 

I had a stacking frog puzzle that I dyed with water base stain and the pieces would not go back together.  I wait about 3 week and it is all good.

I use the popular and dyed it with water based stain and it was good dry in about a day.  I would show the piece but I copied a laser product.

PS:  I like the juke box and the colours.

 

 

 

 

 

Don, instead of water based stain try alcohol dyes.  They are used by the turners. 

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/Video/161

I have been air brushing some projects with them.