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Not to bad hey?


Mistycat

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Also, try and cut as much as possible with the "waste" area to the right of my blade.  I use Flying Dutchman and noticed that it favors the right side, and that's where it will drift to. I find I have the best control and best lines using this rule.  Plus, if I screw up, most of the time it will be in the waste area and not the "live" area.

Seems I am repeating this tip a bit today.

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This is a tip from someone who does not like big blades ( I normally use a #1, will occasionally use a #3, and the largest I have ready is a #5.)

Use the largest blade that will make the curve.  The width of the blade will help "even out" the curve.

 

 

Of course, you can go to far:

bigblade.thumb.jpg.adfe8d498fee2ecbe5b4b859ee509777.jpg

Edited by Wichman
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The outside cuts look pretty decent.  Did you use a spiral blade for the sun faces? You can a #4 spiral in the lines that are on the edge to make them more pronounced.

 

The wood grain on the top sun will kinda look like sun spots.  But the bottom one might be more like jupiter's cloud bands. 

 

Me.

Mark Eason

Edited by preprius
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12 hours ago, rafairchild2 said:

Also, try and cut as much as possible with the "waste" area to the right...

Like Richard,  I try to cut in a counterclockwise direction around a cutout area. Specifically, I  will cut the inside of circle cut with the waste to the right of the blade using a large regular blade ( #3 or #5).

Another thing that helps me.  My pattern line work is very thin.  I keep the blade cutting along the waste side edge of the line. Easier to control then trying to split a fat line.

 

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9 minutes ago, FrankEV said:

Like Richard,  I try to cut in a counterclockwise direction around a cutout area. Specifically, I  will cut the inside of circle cut with the waste to the right of the blade using a large regular blade ( #3 or #5).

Another thing that helps me.  My pattern line work is very thin.  I keep the blade cutting along the waste side edge of the line. Easier to control then trying to split a fat line.

 

Funny you say that.  I generally keep my lines at 1 point thickness, this way I can see any drifting early on and micro adjust my cut. Usually I will go no more than 2 points thick.

Many times, the other thing I do is bring my patterns into photoshop and do a "color overlay" (lighten option), so my lines are magenta instead of black.  This way I can see them better. Below is a 2-pt. sample.

NW950NativityTree-2.png

Edited by rafairchild2
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1 hour ago, rafairchild2 said:

Funny you say that.  I generally keep my lines at 1 point thickness, this way I can see any drifting early on and micro adjust my cut. Usually I will go no more than 2 points thick.

Many times, the other thing I do is bring my patterns into photoshop and do a "color overlay" (lighten option), so my lines are magenta instead of black.  This way I can see them better. Below is a 2-pt. sample.

NW950NativityTree-2.png

 

Your lineweight peoduced by Inkscape is actually .01" when a centerline trace was done.

I use .005" red lines with a light grey (10% or 20%) fill.  I prefer when I can cut away a grey waste area, but often the pattern forces me to cut the white waste area away.

Here is my version of your pattern:

Lightweightexample.thumb.png.c0c2b75c1c28912a6bff7c0166eb623f.png

Edited by FrankEV
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3 hours ago, FrankEV said:

 

Your lineweight peoduced by Inkscape is actually .01" when a centerline trace was done.

I use .005" red lines with a light grey (10% or 20%) fill.  I prefer when I can cut away a grey waste area, but often the pattern forces me to cut the white waste area away.

Here is my version of your pattern:

 

Yours works for me too!  I might have to look at Inkscape as well.  I do like when the waste area is grey.  These old eyes just aint the same no more... 🙂 

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  • 3 weeks later...

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