Popular Post Mistycat Posted October 9, 2023 Popular Post Report Posted October 9, 2023 So my first two big projects, Other than names, Need to learn how to get better curve edges, barb.j.enders, Mark SW, ChelCass and 16 others 19 Quote
James E. Welch Posted October 9, 2023 Report Posted October 9, 2023 Nice work ! I like the little holes around the face. danny and MarieC 2 Quote
Dak0ta52 Posted October 9, 2023 Report Posted October 9, 2023 Well done, Misty. A tip for curves, make sure you push your cuts straight into the blade while turning the piece. In curves, I have a tendency to press towards one side or the other. MarieC, Scrappile and danny 3 Quote
rafairchild2 Posted October 9, 2023 Report Posted October 9, 2023 Also, try and cut as much as possible with the "waste" area to the right of my blade. I use Flying Dutchman and noticed that it favors the right side, and that's where it will drift to. I find I have the best control and best lines using this rule. Plus, if I screw up, most of the time it will be in the waste area and not the "live" area. Seems I am repeating this tip a bit today. ChelCass and Charlie E 2 Quote
Wichman Posted October 9, 2023 Report Posted October 9, 2023 (edited) This is a tip from someone who does not like big blades ( I normally use a #1, will occasionally use a #3, and the largest I have ready is a #5.) Use the largest blade that will make the curve. The width of the blade will help "even out" the curve. Of course, you can go to far: Edited October 9, 2023 by Wichman Mistycat, MarieC, Gene Howe and 3 others 6 Quote
rjweb Posted October 9, 2023 Report Posted October 9, 2023 You have done a real nice job on that, RJ danny 1 Quote
Peter N White Posted October 9, 2023 Report Posted October 9, 2023 They both look great. danny 1 Quote
preprius Posted October 10, 2023 Report Posted October 10, 2023 (edited) The outside cuts look pretty decent. Did you use a spiral blade for the sun faces? You can a #4 spiral in the lines that are on the edge to make them more pronounced. The wood grain on the top sun will kinda look like sun spots. But the bottom one might be more like jupiter's cloud bands. Me. Mark Eason Edited October 10, 2023 by preprius Quote
wombatie Posted October 10, 2023 Report Posted October 10, 2023 You did a terrific job on both. Keep up the great work. Marg danny 1 Quote
Mistycat Posted October 10, 2023 Author Report Posted October 10, 2023 Hi guys, Thanks for the advice, The dots around the faces aren't holes, I just used a ball head in a dremel and burnt them in, Cheers Misty FrankEV and ChelCass 1 1 Quote
FrankEV Posted October 10, 2023 Report Posted October 10, 2023 12 hours ago, rafairchild2 said: Also, try and cut as much as possible with the "waste" area to the right... Like Richard, I try to cut in a counterclockwise direction around a cutout area. Specifically, I will cut the inside of circle cut with the waste to the right of the blade using a large regular blade ( #3 or #5). Another thing that helps me. My pattern line work is very thin. I keep the blade cutting along the waste side edge of the line. Easier to control then trying to split a fat line. danny and Mistycat 2 Quote
rafairchild2 Posted October 10, 2023 Report Posted October 10, 2023 (edited) 9 minutes ago, FrankEV said: Like Richard, I try to cut in a counterclockwise direction around a cutout area. Specifically, I will cut the inside of circle cut with the waste to the right of the blade using a large regular blade ( #3 or #5). Another thing that helps me. My pattern line work is very thin. I keep the blade cutting along the waste side edge of the line. Easier to control then trying to split a fat line. Funny you say that. I generally keep my lines at 1 point thickness, this way I can see any drifting early on and micro adjust my cut. Usually I will go no more than 2 points thick. Many times, the other thing I do is bring my patterns into photoshop and do a "color overlay" (lighten option), so my lines are magenta instead of black. This way I can see them better. Below is a 2-pt. sample. Edited October 10, 2023 by rafairchild2 TAIrving and Mistycat 2 Quote
FrankEV Posted October 10, 2023 Report Posted October 10, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, rafairchild2 said: Funny you say that. I generally keep my lines at 1 point thickness, this way I can see any drifting early on and micro adjust my cut. Usually I will go no more than 2 points thick. Many times, the other thing I do is bring my patterns into photoshop and do a "color overlay" (lighten option), so my lines are magenta instead of black. This way I can see them better. Below is a 2-pt. sample. Your lineweight peoduced by Inkscape is actually .01" when a centerline trace was done. I use .005" red lines with a light grey (10% or 20%) fill. I prefer when I can cut away a grey waste area, but often the pattern forces me to cut the white waste area away. Here is my version of your pattern: Edited October 10, 2023 by FrankEV TAIrving 1 Quote
rafairchild2 Posted October 10, 2023 Report Posted October 10, 2023 3 hours ago, FrankEV said: Your lineweight peoduced by Inkscape is actually .01" when a centerline trace was done. I use .005" red lines with a light grey (10% or 20%) fill. I prefer when I can cut away a grey waste area, but often the pattern forces me to cut the white waste area away. Here is my version of your pattern: Yours works for me too! I might have to look at Inkscape as well. I do like when the waste area is grey. These old eyes just aint the same no more... Quote
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