Kudos to Bushton Manufacturing

[Oldmansbike]

My 27 year old RBI 226vs is starting to show some wear. Been having trouble keeping tension on blade so I started checking things over and noticed the wedge on tensioning rod was rounded over on the point that sits in the arm. Its supposed to be a sharp point. Ordered a new wedge from Bushton on Sat and got in the mail yesterday. Put it on today And didn't have any trouble with keeping tension. I thought that was fast service and they even enclosed a note wishing Happy Halloween. 

[Peter N White]

Always good to hear of great customer service.

[Scrappile]

Good to hear but I am wondering, could one not file the old wedge to a point again?  I do not, or have not owned an Hawk saw so I am just asking.

Edited October 12, 2023 by Scrappile

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, Scrappile said:

Good to hear but I am wondering, could one not file the old wedge to a point again?  I do not, or have not owned an Hawk saw so I am just asking.

I've done that a few times with my saws.. Might take quite a lot of filing if it's really that rounded though.. I typically will take mine apart once a year or so and just dress it up on a flat surface with a piece of sandpaper and sharpen the point up. They can last a very long time provided they are oiled properly.. 

Getting them rounded out too badly can also wear the pointed surface on the actual arm and then you have a much bigger problem.. You have to send it off to Hawk and hopefully there is enough metal of the arm left so they can re-machine it.. They finally got smart and started making a "insert" on the arms so one can buy just the insert instead of having to machine the arm or replace it. For a small fee you can send in your arm and they'll machine the arm to accept those replacement inserts.. I might do this with my Ultra since I'll likely have that saw for a long time... The new BM26 came with the machined insert option..

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I have to ask why do you even play around with that part of the saw. I have never touched that tension thing since I owned my saw and it probably as old as yours. How often do you change size of blades. I use the same blade for just about all cuts I make. If I happen to use a different size blade I make adjustments in the front tension by adjusting the depth I insert the blade. just never could understand that when people write they have a rounded over wedge. Does it rock some when you release front tension, maybe so slightly but nothing to wear metal. Maybe I am missing something. But I have cut a ton of work on my saws.

[kmmcrafts]

That wedge is a wear point as it pivots slightly during the up / down stroke of the saw.. It's not about making adjustments with the tension.. I also do as you and never mess with it at all.. However it still wears over time just by running / using the saw. All three of my saws would wear the point on that wedge and I have the old round barrel clamp style, the ultra and the newest BM series saw and they all wear on that wedge. That said, I have no idea how long it takes for it to get worn to the point where you start having blade tension issues.. But it says right in one of the videos on their site that if you have problems with keeping the tension or blade breakage it could be that wedge is worn.. 

That wedge should be pointed to a pretty sharp edge on it almost to the point where it'd cut something.. I have seen then rounded over to the point that the edge was probably close to 1/16 thick on the edge instead of a nice pointed almost sharp edge. Never had blade issues with the 1/16" thick edge but that was the oldest saw when I first got it and I dressed it out just as I mentioned in my last reply.. there is no need to have to buy a new one unless you let it get worn down too far.. 

The more you dress that wedge the shorter it becomes and thus eventually you'll need to make some adjustments to the stop nut on the bottom of the tension rod.. You should be able to adjust that stop so the upper arm comes down and bottoms out at the correct height to insert the blade and thus being able to tension each new blade with the same tension every single time... unless you use Pegas blades because they cannot seem to make every blade the same length every time, LOL  Or if you change blade sizes as smaller blades need less tension. I only change that if I'm using really small blades.. otherwise I tension all blades with the same setting until I get down into the 2/0 blades. Rarely use those small blades and most times instead of changing my saw settings I just move over to the Excalibur to do the cutting, so basically I never change the setup of my Hawks.

[Oldmansbike]

I have filed the old one a couple of times already. My biggest problem is I forget to put some oil on it. I very rarely change the back tension rod. With the old wedge I could wiggle it back and forth quite a bit when the tension was set. With the new wedge it is tight like it should be. Hopefully I will remember to put a couple drops of oil on it from now on. 

[kmmcrafts]

I've been torn on if I really even like using oil on that as it tends to get messy and attract dust and grit. I started using a dry lube on mine.. in fact I think if you ask Hawk or look in the manual for the new saws that is what it recommends if I remember correctly. I started using this product from P.B. Blaster. 

https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/369279-blaster-garage-door-lubricant.html?blaintm_source=google&blaintm_medium=lia&setstore=41&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsp6pBhCfARIsAD3GZuaXMxevy-147voUGmPw9cNDV0iUkbYhhlX6bROqBSTz_-PI2o-zMlAaAkO-EALw_wcB

I ended up liking this stuff so much that I've been using it on almost everything from car door hinges to lawn mower cables and wheels.. sure makes a slick surface and seems to last quite some time. 

[Wichman]

This is my go to dry lube:

https://www.howardpianoindustries.com/micro-fine-ptfe-powder/

The average particle size is 3 microns. This stuff will work into the pores of the metal and the end result is the parts rub Teflon on Teflon instead of metal on metal. The one oz size will last for years.

 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Well Kevin I have to say I must have gotten the golden 2 saws. Have a 220 and 226 and both are as sharp as the day I bought them. That wedge does not move one iota when scrolling and when changing blades at all.  I have tons of hours on those saws. I will never sharpen or touch them ever and they will be as pristine as they are now. Not sure what you guys are doing.  

The only time I get blade breakage is if using jewler's blade or those thin puzzle blades.  Or if I am pushing the life out of a blade because too lazy to change one. Now blades pop out of clamps because I forget to sand the edges of blade to rid it of oils. I have dressed the thumb screws  often and have changed them the most. I wish they would use the ones like Hegner does with the floating washer. Other than that no oils just vac the dust off after each session. Had to change the front tension lever on each saw once so far and have back ups if need to do again. Now those spinning points I use dry lube on. I believe that RBI has the best saws on the market. Sold my Dewalt 788 and my Hegner this past summer. Never really used them anywhere near as much as the RBIs The hegner was set up to scroll those collapsable baskets because I was making so many different styles of them, setting that angle was a pain on the RBI. Stopped making them so gone goes that saw. Guy got a good deal and a good saw. Same with the person who got my Dewalt. 

Edited October 13, 2023 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[kmmcrafts]

11 hours ago, Wichman said:

This is my go to dry lube:

https://www.howardpianoindustries.com/micro-fine-ptfe-powder/

The average particle size is 3 microns. This stuff will work into the pores of the metal and the end result is the parts rub Teflon on Teflon instead of metal on metal. The one oz size will last for years.

 

Thanks, I’ll check this stuff out. 

[Rolf]

17 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

I've been torn on if I really even like using oil on that as it tends to get messy and attract dust and grit. I started using a dry lube on mine.. in fact I think if you ask Hawk or look in the manual for the new saws that is what it recommends if I remember correctly. I started using this product from P.B. Blaster. 

https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/369279-blaster-garage-door-lubricant.html?blaintm_source=google&blaintm_medium=lia&setstore=41&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsp6pBhCfARIsAD3GZuaXMxevy-147voUGmPw9cNDV0iUkbYhhlX6bROqBSTz_-PI2o-zMlAaAkO-EALw_wcB

I ended up liking this stuff so much that I've been using it on almost everything from car door hinges to lawn mower cables and wheels.. sure makes a slick surface and seems to last quite some time. 

Thanks for the Dry lube suggestion.! Not so much for the saw but for my Garage door. I used lithium lube spray on the drive screw (duh) and I ended up with drips on my TVR. 

I am very happy that Bushton is more active and they even have a facebook page !! I still love my Hawk G4.

[kmmcrafts]

16 minutes ago, Rolf said:

Thanks for the Dry lube suggestion.! Not so much for the saw but for my Garage door. I used lithium lube spray on the drive screw (duh) and I ended up with drips on my TVR. 

I am very happy that Bushton is more active and they even have a facebook page !! I still love my Hawk G4.

Good stuff, I spray all the roller wheels etc.. and you can clearly hear the difference in the sound of the motor of the door opener. 

This sprays as a liquid and will drip until it dries.. usually dries pretty quick but just know it might drip while applying it so move the TVR out or cover with something first. It is mostly clear in color if it does get on something but it does have a slight translucent whitish film it'll leave behind. 

[kmmcrafts]

11 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

Well Kevin I have to say I must have gotten the golden 2 saws. Have a 220 and 226 and both are as sharp as the day I bought them. That wedge does not move one iota when scrolling and when changing blades at all.  I have tons of hours on those saws. I will never sharpen or touch them ever and they will be as pristine as they are now. Not sure what you guys are doing.  

The only time I get blade breakage is if using jewler's blade or those thin puzzle blades.  Or if I am pushing the life out of a blade because too lazy to change one. Now blades pop out of clamps because I forget to sand the edges of blade to rid it of oils. I have dressed the thumb screws  often and have changed them the most. I wish they would use the ones like Hegner does with the floating washer. Other than that no oils just vac the dust off after each session. Had to change the front tension lever on each saw once so far and have back ups if need to do again. Now those spinning points I use dry lube on. I believe that RBI has the best saws on the market. Sold my Dewalt 788 and my Hegner this past summer. Never really used them anywhere near as much as the RBIs The hegner was set up to scroll those collapsable baskets because I was making so many different styles of them, setting that angle was a pain on the RBI. Stopped making them so gone goes that saw. Guy got a good deal and a good saw. Same with the person who got my Dewalt. 

It's a possibility that oiling that wedge is making it wear more, as it could be attracting dust / grit... which is why I moved over to the dry lube also recommended by Bushton.. I was always just following the recommendations in the manual for maintenance.. I don't know. I will say that some saws that wedge is wider than what the arm is so just visually looking at it from the side it looks unworn and like new.. however if you actually remove the wedge and look at it straight on there is visible wear. It has never been very much wear but certainly very little wear.. Since it's off I just dress it and put it back together. I'm doubtful that it'd be worn to a point where it'd need replaced yet if I had never dressed it out.   

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

12 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

It's a possibility that oiling that wedge is making it wear more, as it could be attracting dust / grit... which is why I moved over to the dry lube also recommended by Bushton.. I was always just following the recommendations in the manual for maintenance.. I don't know. I will say that some saws that wedge is wider than what the arm is so just visually looking at it from the side it looks unworn and like new.. however if you actually remove the wedge and look at it straight on there is visible wear. It has never been very much wear but certainly very little wear.. Since it's off I just dress it and put it back together. I'm doubtful that it'd be worn to a point where it'd need replaced yet if I had never dressed it out.   

I guess but I learned long ago to live by the adage if it is not broke do not fix it. Do not go looking for trouble. I know for as long as I have left to scroll on these saws they will never need for me to touch that wedge. I set the tension when I first got it and never touched it again. Just do not see the need to If your blades are breaking I bet it is something more than that wedge causing the problem. My saw the wedges are basically same size as arm. No overhang and maybe a little less. The biggest thing other than changing the front tensioner and getting new blade holders and new thumb screws I changed that silly plastic clamp holder under the bottom arm to spring steel and has work like a charm If i could figure that out why could they not see that being a weak link. Anyway Happy Scrolling. Again in my eyes the best saws on the market hands down. They are worth the money if you want an industrial saw. If a weekend warrior than any other saw is good for you. 

[kmmcrafts]

25 minutes ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

I guess but I learned long ago to live by the adage if it is not broke do not fix it. Do not go looking for trouble. I know for as long as I have left to scroll on these saws they will never need for me to touch that wedge. I set the tension when I first got it and never touched it again. Just do not see the need to If your blades are breaking I bet it is something more than that wedge causing the problem. My saw the wedges are basically same size as arm. No overhang and maybe a little less. The biggest thing other than changing the front tensioner and getting new blade holders and new thumb screws I changed that silly plastic clamp holder under the bottom arm to spring steel and has work like a charm If i could figure that out why could they not see that being a weak link. Anyway Happy Scrolling. Again in my eyes the best saws on the market hands down. They are worth the money if you want an industrial saw. If a weekend warrior than any other saw is good for you. 

Yeah the plastic piece is sure a dumb idea on those older saws.. The new one has spring steel blade holder keeper things on it. At least they improved that part on these new saws.. and I've been reading a lot about how much better customer service has been so that's good too. My very first Hawk I bought needed the front tension cam and lever replacement.. on all three of my saws.. that is the only worn part that had to be replaced I've ever had so far.. They are very well built and made for production type work.. sure happy I made that move instead of replacing / rebuilding DeWalts every year..