Scroll Saw Finishig - Wood Treatment

[Insane Dust Maker]

What suggestion out there as to the wood treatment Danish Oil has become ridiculously expensive here in S A. What other alternatives can I try that will give me result bearing in mind I often add colour and apply a clear varnish to finish.

[FrankEV]

Even Clear varnish tends to yellow over time.  And, I personally do not like oil finishes because even when they feel dry to the touch it will attract dust to the work.  For the same reason I would not use any kind of wax finish.

Most appropriate choices for uncolored or stained wood include Clear Spray orWipe-on Ppolyurathane and Clear Spray Lacquer.  I use rattle can lacquer but it is available in bulk at much lower cost per use as long as you have the equipment to spray.  

For wood that you add color to, it depends on the paint  type.  Clear acrylic sprays are best for pieces painted with Acrylic (water base) Paints or stains.  Polycrylic is a name brand that tends to be expensive, but I have found Krylon and some store brand maufacturers have Clear Acrylic protective coatings at much lower costs.  I use Clear Spray Laquer over acrylic painted pieces also, with out any problems.  A craft store, like Hobby Lobby here in the USA, has the acrylic spray cans at much lower cost that the hardware stores that only handle the Polycrylic brand.

For any oil based painted pieces I would stick with polyurethane or lacquer.

Both Lacquer and Poly create a hard durable surface.  IMHO, if it good enough for most furniture manufactuers, it is good enough for Scroll work.   Clear Acrylic coatings are also good, but, again in my opinion, not quite as durable as Poly.

Lacquer and the acrylic coatings have the advantage of a very fast dry time, while poly takes forever to dry just to be able to handle, especially if the humidity is high. 

For me a BLO finish takes too much work and time, that to me is not warrented for the product our hobby produces.

And, last, Poly is the only protective coating I will use for any piece that will hang outside.     

[Ron Johnson]

95% of  my projects receive a minimum 4 coats of polyurethane( satin )and some up to 6 (painted or unpainted). Lightly sanding with a 1500 grit between each coat. Each coat is left to dry 1 day before applying the next. Once I’m satisfied with the number of coats I lightly sand the project with 1500 grit wet with bees wax wiping dry and polishing with a cheese cloth. The final result feels like glass to the touch. I’ve been using this process for over twenty years. Yes I know there are many other beautiful finishes but this is the one I prefer. 

[OCtoolguy]

2 hours ago, Ron Johnson said:

95% of  my projects receive a minimum 4 coats of polyurethane( satin )and some up to 6 (painted or unpainted). Lightly sanding with a 1500 grit between each coat. Each coat is left to dry 1 day before applying the next. Once I’m satisfied with the number of coats I lightly sand the project with 1500 grit wet with bees wax wiping dry and polishing with a cheese cloth. The final result feels like glass to the touch. I’ve been using this process for over twenty years. Yes I know there are many other beautiful finishes but this is the one I prefer. 

Where do you find 1500 grit paper? I've not seen anything beyond 800.

[FrankEV]

1 hour ago, OCtoolguy said:

Where do you find 1500 grit paper? I've not seen anything beyond 800.

Ace

[ScollSaw Slasher]

Any auto store.

[FrankEV]

3 hours ago, Ron Johnson said:

95% of  my projects receive a minimum 4 coats of polyurethane( satin )and some up to 6 (painted or unpainted). Lightly sanding with a 1500 grit between each coat. Each coat is left to dry 1 day before applying the next. Once I’m satisfied with the number of coats I lightly sand the project with 1500 grit wet with bees wax wiping dry and polishing with a cheese cloth. The final result feels like glass to the touch. I’ve been using this process for over twenty years. Yes I know there are many other beautiful finishes but this is the one I prefer. 

Great for solid wood projects like statues, puzzles, toys, etc.  IMHO, not practical for fretwork type ply panels, with or without backer.  I like lacquer because I can get a nice, quite smooth, finish with no, in between coats, sanding needed.  Multiple coats with only a short dry time in beween, tends to get smoother and smoother.  I prefer poly for finishing stained wood frames, but don't take it to the extreme Ron does.

Still experimenting with clear acrylic coatings.

 

 

[Scrappile]

In wood turning we use  micro mesh.  It is clothe backed and lasts a long timeI used it to finish pens. went from 1500 grit to up past 6K grit I believe.  It was for wet sanding.  You could also get it foam backed.  Probably more them you would want.

[Insane Dust Maker]

Thanks for the replies Polyurethane is definitely worth considering, I was sold on the idea that you had to soak your cutting in a Tung ( Danish Oil ) to protect it and seal it. Spraying poly on would do the same thing if I read the replies correctly. I am paying just short of $30 for 500ml of Danish Oil, Poly is much cheaper.

[Insane Dust Maker]

Okay did a search Poly would cost me $10 for a liter, much cheaper option even if I add the thinners in for spraying. As I add stain and color to my wildlife cuttings I presume I would do that first, and then apply a few coats of Poly as suggested in the postings.

[FrankEV]

59 minutes ago, Insane Dust Maker said:

Okay did a search Poly would cost me $10 for a liter, much cheaper option even if I add the thinners in for spraying. As I add stain and color to my wildlife cuttings I presume I would do that first, and then apply a few coats of Poly as suggested in the postings.

As I said earlier, if you stain or ,paint your wood Poly or Lacquer are the best choices.   

It sound like you may have a spray booth and spray equipment.  If you do, buying either Poly or Lacquer in bulk is going to be much cheaper.    Either, purchased in rattle cans is also an option but tends to get pricy if you use a large quantity.

I highly suggest you give a clear gloss or satin Lacquer a try.  It will give you a finish as good as Poly with a much faster dry time.  With multiple coats the finish get smoother and no, or very little sanding, required.  I also find it brings out the beauty of the wood better than Poly.  

The Laquer oder is strong, as is Poly, while spraying, but diapates quickly.   Lacquer area overspray is dust, Poly is sticky.  Spray Lacquer gets into small crevices and onto the vertical cut surfaces better than Poly also.  The dip process you used with the oil is better at getting all surfaces coated than spraying so you need to take care not to spray either Poly or Lacquer too heavy a coat or you will get puddling and runs.  I have also experienced blushing with both if I apply too heavy a coating.  A follow up coat of Lacquer will eliminate the Blushing as a follow up coat of Lacquer melts the previous coat, but a subsequent coat of Poly will not.

 

[FrankEV]

13 hours ago, Scrappile said:

In wood turning we use  micro mesh.  It is clothe backed and lasts a long timeI used it to finish pens. went from 1500 grit to up past 6K grit I believe.  It was for wet sanding.  You could also get it foam backed.  Probably more them you would want.

When I had my shop in NC and had my big lathe, I also did a lot of turnings.   After sanding, to get a really smooth final finish,a handfull of shavings was the choice prior to applying any kind of finish.   

For a very fine, hard and smooth finish I often used thin AC glue.  Had to work fast but worked great.  

 

 

when I had my sho

[Ron Johnson]

On 10/21/2023 at 12:27 PM, OCtoolguy said:

Where do you find 1500 grit paper? I've not seen anything beyond 800.

Lee Valley. 

[scrollerpete]

You can get up to 3000 on Amazon wet and dry for palm sander

[Gonzo]

If available, you might want to try Minwax Antique Oil Finish. Easy to apply, using a brush or dipping. I like the warm luster that it gives. Odor is not strong by any means. 

[Joe W.]

On 10/21/2023 at 2:27 PM, OCtoolguy said:

Where do you find 1500 grit paper? I've not seen anything beyond 800.

I realize this is an old posting, but I'm researching finishes/finishing and came across this one.
I saw another posting on another forum some time ago that said using a piece of brown paper for finishing sanding was equivalent to a very high grit of sandpaper.
I don't remember the number of the grit, but think it was in the thousands.
Thanks for all who posted here on this subject.  It gives me more to consider.   

[OCtoolguy]

1 hour ago, Joe W. said:

I realize this is an old posting, but I'm researching finishes/finishing and came across this one.
I saw another posting on another forum some time ago that said using a piece of brown paper for finishing sanding was equivalent to a very high grit of sandpaper.
I don't remember the number of the grit, but think it was in the thousands.
Thanks for all who posted here on this subject.  It gives me more to consider.   

I stropped a pocket knife once with a piece of notebook paper to a mirror finish. 

[Gonzo]

9 hours ago, Joe W. said:

I realize this is an old posting, but I'm researching finishes/finishing and came across this one.
I saw another posting on another forum some time ago that said using a piece of brown paper for finishing sanding was equivalent to a very high grit of sandpaper.
I don't remember the number of the grit, but think it was in the thousands.
Thanks for all who posted here on this subject.  It gives me more to consider.   

I agree. When I am finished applying my finish, I hand sand with a piece off of a brown paper bag. Gives a very smooth surface 

[Matt B]

My local Home Depot in Denton TX has 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit in stock.  

Edited December 10, 2023 by Matt B

[scrollingforsanity]

On 10/21/2023 at 11:27 AM, OCtoolguy said:

Where do you find 1500 grit paper? I've not seen anything beyond 800.

Ray, Harbor freight has 1000, 1500, 2000 and higher if you need it