The Stuff I Get Myself Into..

[kmmcrafts]

Most times I cut counterclockwise but I do cut either direction.. I do not do the stopping normally but because the camera was in my normal view of sawing I wasn't trying to mess up. LOL. I actually think I can cut this a couple minutes faster on the Hawk.. the blade is straighter up / down and the sharp turns are much easier.. even though I have the EX adjusted as straight as possible.. I still find the Hawk much more relaxing to do the corners. As for the position of the pattern.. IF it was a straight smooth edge will place the pattern so the bottom doesn't need to be cut since that saves time.. This particular one had a bad spot in the wood that I was trying to make go into the waist area of the cutout.. Also... you will notice the first time I changed to a different hole I rotated the magnifier to the side which is what I normally do but I realized the camera was just looking at the ground and not me changing blade, LOL.. This takes longer to get the magnifier in the right position by just lifting it up rather than swinging it back and fourth in front of me.. It's pretty tough cutting with the camera / phone resting on top of the magnifier because it only give me about a inch at the widest point of the mag lens to look through and it was way off to the side instead of in the middle where I normally look through so it was making me look at the lines off to the side rather than straight on.. Made cutting more difficult which is why I was stopping to back out etc..

Anyway, glad someone enjoyed watching it. I probably shaved off close to 5 minutes using the Hawk and no phone setting in my normal view.  

[BadBob]

14 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

@BadBob That is why I do what I do.. Never was happy working for someone else that didn't appreciate me and would replace me the next day after I quit or die or whatever... Don't punch a clock.. take on work or turn it away if I don't want it.. and best of all.. make close to the same money and don't need a extra car to insure and maintain etc.. in the end I really have more money in my pocket.. Little stressful sometimes not knowing how your year will do each year since most the business comes in the last 3 months of the year, LOL.. But that's better than the everyday stress of fighting traffic to drive to a job and work for someone that doesn't appreciate it.

Fortunately for me, I don't have to do this. If I had to do it for a living, I would starve.

[kmmcrafts]

6 minutes ago, BadBob said:

Fortunately for me, I don't have to do this. If I had to do it for a living, I would starve.

Well, I'm not starved but I am pretty skinny.. Honestly without doing other side hustle stuff the last couple years I'd be a lot skinnier, LOL There was about 2 years where my wife didn't work much for health reasons and the business kept us alive and paid for our health insurance etc. while she got through a tough time.. tough for us all.. but with the business I was able to be here to help her with the kids yet still bringing in some cash flow.. Now I'm not so strapped to make sales like I was for those years and my income shows it too. I don't work nearly as hard as I did during that time.. But at that time I was raising family and being a caregiver to the wife and running a business to help support us.. don't know how I did it honestly but glad it's better now, LOL.. I will say you find ways to promote and make a business go when you "really need the money" 

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, rafairchild2 said:

I generally keep my cut with the waste to the right.  I am a stop and start also.  Add to that I am slower than molasses on a sub zero winter day.  My goal is to nail my lines and have the sharpest corners possible. Since I also round the back of the blade, I might also have the saw stopped when backing up.  Sometimes not.  Here's an example of me cutting. I am still learning to speak and saw at the same time... I now can walk and chew gum though. 

 

 

Nice video!! I don't do any type of editing to my video as you can tell.. I normally will cut the original sound down and add some sort of music to them but not for YouTube videos.. I don't do too much video on YouTube.. mostly watch others videos, LOL.. I do like to put short video clicks up on social sites though.. but video editing and whatnot takes a lot of time I could be making sawdust, LOL 

[BadBob]

I do the work every day. Everything was steadily increasing. Profits and revenue were stadly increasing. A little over two years ago that changed and it has been in steady decline since then. I have had two months so far this year where I lost money.

[rafairchild2]

25 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

Nice video!! I don't do any type of editing to my video as you can tell.. I normally will cut the original sound down and add some sort of music to them but not for YouTube videos.. I don't do too much video on YouTube.. mostly watch others videos, LOL.. I do like to put short video clicks up on social sites though.. but video editing and whatnot takes a lot of time I could be making sawdust, LOL 

Same here, I do zero editing, but I have a wireless lapel mic so as long as i keep the vacuum system off, the audio is pretty good without adjustments. My vac is on wheels, so I might try to roll it outside and close the big door and cut down that sound and see what happens.

I have done full production YT videos for other projects of mine, but in this case, my scrolling channel, videos will only show my hands from hello to my goodbye phrase. I am NOT an "influencer" and have zero desire to be a YT "star". This phrase is an adaptation of when I worked at a radio network for 15 years that one of my mentors used to honor him.  Otherwise, I just start my camera and then record warts and all.

Edited November 17, 2023 by rafairchild2

[barb.j.enders]

I haven't watched the whole video but I did notice at around the 7 minute mark the saw seemed to run faster than other times.  Not sure if it is just what happens when filming, but how fast do you run the saw at?  

[Rolf]

On 11/16/2023 at 5:02 PM, barb.j.enders said:

I realize that everyone cuts at a different pace.  I am just saying that it would take me longer than 20 minutes.  I purchased the 20 minute puzzle book, from Fox Publishing.  Still haven't cut in 20 minutes!!  Maybe 25.

As a test cutter I track my time. My average cut time for the 56 puzzles was 26 minutes.  I could have cut faster but I used a smaller blade for a bit tighter kerf. I also really concentrated on not pushing sideways. All of the puzzles were cut from Hard Maple.  The total time with prep,pattern, rounding, sanding etc.  took me about 48 minutes average.

Edited November 18, 2023 by Rolf

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

This turned out to be an interesting conversation. All nice videos. As I said it is always interesting to watch others scroll and see what their habits are and how they approach different situations. None are  wrong, just different. I think beginners can learn alot by just watching others do it. I know I am that way. Just show me and I can easily pick things up. I know scrolling items such as puzzles are alot more difficult to do speed wise because of all the twists and turns and the small blade used. When I cut most my projects it is always a #5 double tooth reverse FD blade. Just love those blades. People also become obsessed with how their cuts look and sometimes try to be too perfect. Many times if a cut is not a direct straight line then various oops means nothing. That is what  is nice about scrolling. Besides it does become mesmerizing after awhile. Thanks all and Happy Scrolling.

[rafairchild2]

23 minutes ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

....cuts look and sometimes try to be too perfect. .

Perfect is the enemy of good enough. 

I do strive to be exacting on my lines, but on certain cuts I talk to myself saying I can go off the line and be a little creative.  But yes, straight lines I try and nail my lines, as that can show up as a glaring error sometimes.

My go-to is also Flying Dutchman, but the Ultra Reverse #5.  However, I am also using #1-7's as needed.

A few of my videos are from direct questions asked of me and I figured a video will help them, so I can show how I do it.  My way is NOT the right way, but my way which is an amalgamation of other peoples techniques. Take what works for you, then it is a win.

 

[kmmcrafts]

Well I got a later start on these this morning because I had a couple of other projects that I needed to finish sand and get dipped in Danish Oil so they can go in the mail next week.. plus I had a few orders to package and get in the mailbox.. Anyway I sanded the next board down. applied my shelf liner and patterns to it.. then cut them into manageable sizes, drilled the holes for the clocks and pilot holes... I came in for lunch at noon ( right now LOL ) and ate.. I got 5 completely cut and the 6th one is only got the one cutout next to the clock and where the hands are left to cut so cut that one out and then cut the profile and after lunch and then I'll start on the next several.. Think I might be able to have all of them cut out by the end of the day today so then it'll be just CNC the bases and some sanding / finishing. I'd guess it'll be another day of work to do the bases and all the sanding and finishing.. Looks like it'll end up being a 3 day job... 

Not sure if I mentioned it or not but in the beginning they planed to order 25 but they dropped it back to 21 of them so I don't need quite as many.. Have two in my inventory but plan to just make the whole batch so those two can stay in inventory, LOL..

Mondays are always a bust for me to get in the shop this time of year because of all the orders from the weekend have to get packed and then there is too many and the mail driver won't pick them up so I have to drive them 12 mile each way to and from the local post office.. IF I even make out to the shop it's not usually until after lunch.

The total price for the customer paying was just shy of $1200 After shipping and my expenses I'll likely end up around $900.. Obviously not counting electric etc. for shop lights and all the little things.. With all the ornaments sold so far this week across all sites.. I've got about $500 on Amazon in sales and $300 on Etsy Nothing from the other two sites currently.. still have the weekend to go through yet.. which is when I get most my business.. Currently setting at around $1800 for the week which for this time of year is still not great.. but better than it has been so far this year. Usually expect around $10,000 - 12,000 in sales the first week of Dec. and close to that the second week and around half of that the last week of Nov. So it's typically very busy this time of year.. This summer was a bust.. lucky to have $300 a month.. normally that much a week or two..  so it's definitely down this year..   

[jerry walters]

This has been a most interesting conversation. What I gleaned from this is that there is no right or wrong or fast or slow. For many of us this is a hobby, one to enjoy in our retirement years. For those of you who do this for a living, my hats off to you and I salute you. Some of my friends ask me if I would be interested in showing my work at craft shows. I tell them no, not interested. Why, because once I have commitment to fill, this hobby ceases to be fun. Like I said, I learned a lot from this conversation. Kevin, I did enjoy your video. Happy Thanksgiving to everyone and happy scrolling. 

Jerry

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

53 minutes ago, jerry walters said:

This has been a most interesting conversation. What I gleaned from this is that there is no right or wrong or fast or slow. For many of us this is a hobby, one to enjoy in our retirement years. For those of you who do this for a living, my hats off to you and I salute you. Some of my friends ask me if I would be interested in showing my work at craft shows. I tell them no, not interested. Why, because once I have commitment to fill, this hobby ceases to be fun. Like I said, I learned a lot from this conversation. Kevin, I did enjoy your video. Happy Thanksgiving to everyone and happy scrolling. 

Jerry

Jerry, you are absolutely correct. I believe 99%  of scrollers are hobbyists . That 1% who sell as a business has to be lucky and really needs to drive the business and or have a backup plan as a second income because to make a living doing this in this day and age is not going to happen. prices of materials has gone up as well as demand is down. Many years ago back in late 80's and early 90's when I started I had grand visions of going full bore into this as a business. As I look back now I am so glad I did not but I did enjoy the path I took because I did see the good times and living the bad times now and have shifted my hobby focus basically totally to pens. This also can be a hard sell and a tough business because many pen turners out there because it is an easy item to make and sell. But like all these selling sites there are the cut throats and you have to compete with that. Doing a few shows a year and making a few bucks just makes sense to help support the hobby. Unlike golf or hobbies like that there is no return for your efforts. Scrolling there is. Getting stressed out about making deadlines and quantities is a job and most are past that time. This is an older generational hobby for sure and we a dwindling. 

You are 100% correct, there is no right or wrong way. just find your way and enjoy the ride. A Happy Thanksgiving to you as well. Keep the saws humming.

[kmmcrafts]

Quit a bit early tonight.. but I have 18 of the 21 cut.. I ran out of space on my board for more patterns so I gotta get another board down and plane it etc. 

[kmmcrafts]

Well my wife wanted to go Christmas shopping early and I wasn't really in the mood for that so I stayed home.. Fired up the CNC and in two hours had carved 27 clock bases.. so now I have 18 clocks scrolled and more than enough bases made. I should have been productive and cut the clocks or done some sanding while the CNC was doing it's thing.. About all I did was clean up around the saws and drill press etc. where I had been working.. Then my son stopped by so I called it a day.. 

Had I been productive I could have had all 21 of these made and ready for sanding / finishing.. Currently have around 12 hours into this.. Guessing I'll have about 2 maybe 3 hours.. of sanding, attaching the bases, and finishing.. 

 

 

 

Edited November 19, 2023 by kmmcrafts

[jerry walters]

Impressive Kevin, impressive!!!

Jerry

[rjweb]

I would say that the CNC paid for it self, RJ

[kmmcrafts]

8 hours ago, rjweb said:

I would say that the CNC paid for it self, RJ

Don't really use it much but it sure is handy to make clock bases and some things I cannot really do with scroll saw.. Knowing what I know now I'd probably not bought it and just went with a larger more powerful laser.. I think April was that last time I ran it, LOL.. Most times I just scroll or use the table saw to make the bases but I do like to give them that added touch with my business name carved on the bottom.. especially when the clocks are going to several different people as gifts like this case.. this way each of those 21 people will know where they came from and may come look at the other things on the websites. 

[kmmcrafts]

I need a larger drying rack, lol . This is a makeshift thing setting on the floor is spill over because this all wouldn’t fit on my drying rack. Lol. I likely won’t ever be needing one as this is not a common large order. But anyway they’re all done and dipped in Danish oil. Currently drying, probably package them up Sunday and have them in the mail Monday morning. 
 

Was a good order to do that didn’t really take as long as I had figured. Doing one off of the clocks does take longer than going production style and mass producing them. 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Yea that was an easy cut. This photo brings back memories as I  did the same thing dip in Danish oil and let sit. Have so many different projects set on plywood I had set up in the garage. So many times I would do this. Went through alot of gallons of Danish oil over the years. Watco was and still is my choice today. They did change the mixture over the years but still does the job. I remember when Watco decided to stop making Danish oil and Home Depot was selling all they had for dirt cheap. I was like a kid in  a candy store. I hit every Home Depot in the state of NJ just about. Couple gallons at each store. They had such a backlash from customers complaining that they brought it back with a few changes in formula. They said it was the same but anyone using it saw the difference in it. 

This made for an interesting discussion as it trended. I am sure they will all find a good home and be appreciated. 

[kmmcrafts]

7 minutes ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

Yea that was an easy cut. This photo brings back memories as I  did the same thing dip in Danish oil and let sit. Have so many different projects set on plywood I had set up in the garage. So many times I would do this. Went through alot of gallons of Danish oil over the years. Watco was and still is my choice today. They did change the mixture over the years but still does the job. I remember when Watco decided to stop making Danish oil and Home Depot was selling all they had for dirt cheap. I was like a kid in  a candy store. I hit every Home Depot in the state of NJ just about. Couple gallons at each store. They had such a backlash from customers complaining that they brought it back with a few changes in formula. They said it was the same but anyone using it saw the difference in it. 

This made for an interesting discussion as it trended. I am sure they will all find a good home and be appreciated. 

Yeah Danish oil is my go too for finishing.. sometimes I'll top coat with poly too but not too often. They do have 3 different formulas for it.. some is quite thick and the others are a bit thin ( watery ).. I like the thicker stuff best but they all work good.. but the thicker one give off more of a rich sheen look to it.. Kind of think the thicker one has a higher oil content in it than the others.. but it may be the same mix other than just reduced down more with tinners or whatever driers they add to it. 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

33 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

Yeah Danish oil is my go too for finishing.. sometimes I'll top coat with poly too but not too often. They do have 3 different formulas for it.. some is quite thick and the others are a bit thin ( watery ).. I like the thicker stuff best but they all work good.. but the thicker one give off more of a rich sheen look to it.. Kind of think the thicker one has a higher oil content in it than the others.. but it may be the same mix other than just reduced down more with tinners or whatever driers they add to it. 

I will never use poly on any projects. I am a lacquer guy. Both Nitro and waterbased lacquers. It brings the depth of wood out more so than poly, I think. When I was making alot of those desk watches I would make them in batches too and then break out the big compressor and my HVLP spray gun and shoot them all with a waterbased lacquer. Doing things in bunches does help when doing production work. Now there is poly in Danish oil but it is so little it really just seals the wood and does not build unless you do more than one coat. I only dipped once. It left that soft sheen and the wood was so nice to feel in the hands because I would always finish sand with 220 grit. That is another product I went through alot. All projects sanded with 220 grit paper. I did not top coat much either. just certain projects needed it. 

Edited November 21, 2023 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

I will never use poly on any projects. I am a lacquer guy. Both Nitro and waterbased lacquers. It brings the depth of wood out more so than poly, I think. When I was making alot of those desk watches I would make them in batches too and then break out the big compressor and my HVLP spray gun and shoot them all with a waterbased lacquer. Doing things in bunches does help when doing production work. Now there is poly in Danish oil but it is so little it really just seals the wood and does not build unless you do more than one coat. I only dipped once. It left that soft sheen and the wood was so nice to feel in the hands because I would always finish sand with 220 grit. That is another product I went through alot. All projects sanded with 220 grit paper. I did not top coat much either. just certain projects needed it. 

Any issues with top coating over Danish oil with lacquer? I much rather use lacquer too.. but top coating over the oil base with solvent base is a big no no in the automotive world so I've never attempted it.. I know you mentioned water base so that is probably okay over the Danish oil.. I have all the spray equipment but I never did big enough batches where i would top coat to be worth the effort to dig out the spray equipment and the clean-up process is painful for just a dozen or so projects at a time.. 

I recently bought a couple cans of water base in the spray cans.. don't know if I got a bad batch or what but the spray nozzle was just spitting the stuff out and actually ruined my project.. Never again with that.. It was Varathane Brand.. I have used the water based poly in the blue spray can and it has always worked pretty well so long as you shake it up good and also have the can at a good temp.. To cold out and it does the same thing as the other stuff I was just talking about..Probably the water to cold, LOL.. but the other stuff was back in the summer so cold wasn't an issue..    

[dgman]

17 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

Any issues with top coating over Danish oil with lacquer? I much rather use lacquer too.. but top coating over the oil base with solvent base is a big no no in the automotive world so I've never attempted it.. I know you mentioned water base so that is probably okay over the Danish oil.. I have all the spray equipment but I never did big enough batches where i would top coat to be worth the effort to dig out the spray equipment and the clean-up process is painful for just a dozen or so projects at a time.. 

I recently bought a couple cans of water base in the spray cans.. don't know if I got a bad batch or what but the spray nozzle was just spitting the stuff out and actually ruined my project.. Never again with that.. It was Varathane Brand.. I have used the water based poly in the blue spray can and it has always worked pretty well so long as you shake it up good and also have the can at a good temp.. To cold out and it does the same thing as the other stuff I was just talking about..Probably the water to cold, LOL.. but the other stuff was back in the summer so cold wasn't an issue..    

I spray lacquer over my 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits everyday. As long as there is no oily feel to the wood, lacquer will adhere to it. Usually, the 50/50 mix is dry within 24 hours. So I can ship 48 hours after starting my finishing.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

14 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

Any issues with top coating over Danish oil with lacquer? I much rather use lacquer too.. but top coating over the oil base with solvent base is a big no no in the automotive world so I've never attempted it.. I know you mentioned water base so that is probably okay over the Danish oil.. I have all the spray equipment but I never did big enough batches where i would top coat to be worth the effort to dig out the spray equipment and the clean-up process is painful for just a dozen or so projects at a time.. 

I recently bought a couple cans of water base in the spray cans.. don't know if I got a bad batch or what but the spray nozzle was just spitting the stuff out and actually ruined my project.. Never again with that.. It was Varathane Brand.. I have used the water based poly in the blue spray can and it has always worked pretty well so long as you shake it up good and also have the can at a good temp.. To cold out and it does the same thing as the other stuff I was just talking about..Probably the water to cold, LOL.. but the other stuff was back in the summer so cold wasn't an issue..    

In the finishing world too it is a no-no to put lacquer over poly or vice versa too. But in the case of using lacquer over Danish oil is not a problem because the amount of poly in Danish oil is minimal. As I said unless you start using more than one coat because now you are building up the poly on the surface. The poly on the first coat is absorbed into the wood. I used this method all the time because I use Danish oil as a means of so called popping the grain as opposed to using just BLO. If you are afraid to use Danish oil and want to top coat then you better off using BLO and top coat with whatever you prefer. When I say I use waterbase lacquer, the product I only use is this. Been using it for years and love the look. What makes it nice to use is the ease to clean the gun. Just run water through it and when done I spray some denatured alcohol to dry the interior workings better. I spray all my desk watches with waterbase lacquer. 

https://www.targetcoatings.com/product/emtech-em6000-wb-production-lacquer/

Now I think I must explain my method of finishing projects like your praying hands clock and most of my projects including my shelves, mirrors, magazine racks and all clocks basically. But I make so many different items and there are some that I do differently. But for the majority I have always done this. Now this is my method of doing this stuff and have done it since I started. I cut as you do. I sand entire project with 220 grit paper. Blow dust off with air compressor.  i do not assemble as you do. I dip in a large container of Danish oil. I let sit for about 5 to 10 minutes and pull item out and let it drip on a container lid lying flat so all fluids do not pool in all the fret work. Then I wipe for the first time and set aside on plywood with stickers under the piece so they are not laying flat. They stay that way until I am ready for final wipe down with clean cloth and again set on plywood the same way but they are now there to dry for ood. After about 3 days I am ready to wax them and the 3 days is approximate because of what I have planned or whatever else I am working on. I then coat each project with a light coat of Watco wood wax. I let sit again over night. next day a quick wipe down and polish the pieces and now they are ready for assembly and price tags and for sale. The waxing is an added step I have been doing because of the feel and the look of the soft sheen is tremendously appealing when people pick up and touch. Many people have commented on this.  

Now when using exotic woods for bases I use a different method. I again cut, sand and dip in Danish oils and wipe dry and wait till dry. I then use lemmon oil with Micromesh sanding pads to polish them. I do this because with exotic woods such as rosewoods they are closed grain woods that are oil filled. Yo use that to the advantage of putting a high gloss sheen on the wood by polishing it. After I MM it I will take it over to my buffing wheel and really put a sheen on it with buffing wheel using the white diamond and also a wood wax. 

These steps for finishing sets my work off compared to others work I have seen out there and believe me I have seen some others work.  Does it mean anything in the long scheme of things, maybe not but to me it was the way I learned woodworking. Not to cut corners and present the best product I can. I have included a few photos that maybe you can see the different sheens of what I am talking about.