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Thickness of ornaments ?


rjweb

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I have always thought that 1/4” is too thick for ornaments and 1/8” is too thin. So, I mill all my hardwoods for ornaments at 3/16”. I then stack cut three layers. That makes the stack 9/16”, or just over 1/2”. Keep in mind I sell most of what I make. If you are just cutting one at a time, I would use 1/4” for hardwoods. If you are using BB, you can go 1/8”.

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Years ago I used to use 1/4".. But as has been mentioned, they seem to be a little too thick in my opinion.. when doing solid wood I mill my own down to 3/16.. But that said, I make very few from solid timber.. most everything is plywood. Another tip about ornaments.. Lighter colored wood such as BBply or maple.. cherry is about the darkest I'll go with and even then I must say even though my favorite wood is Cherry.. the darker colored ornaments do not show up on a Christmas tree all that great.. 

As much as I used to hate to see people paint nice wood.. I also feel like with ornaments.. painting some bright colored details on lighter wood like BBply really makes the ornaments stand out.. I still don't care for painting the whole ornament.. but highlighting details on a ornament really does make it pop..

Also, many scrollers sort of balk at the dark edges of laser engraved ornaments but truth be told, I get asked quite often if I can paint the edges of my ornaments like I do on some of them.. I then have to explain that some of my stuff is laser cut and others is scrolled.. It'd be tough to paint the edges on some of the really detailed ornaments.. but the darker edges does give some depth look to the otherwise flat ornament.. they sometimes then ask if I can just laser cut the design so they can have the dark edge look..😂  

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I am new to making flat ornaments. I like solid wood and generally use 1/4-inch random hardwoods because that is what I have on hand, mostly wood left over from other projects. I use plywood if the pattern is complex and/or fragile. I cut them one at a time and never have stack-cut ornaments. I am not against stack-cutting; I don't need or want multiples, and I am using them as practice cutting thinner wood. I don't paint ornaments.

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Like Norm, for flat ornaments I mainly use 1/8" BB ply.  If making from hardwood, I plane the blanks down to about 3/16".

Personally I think thinner ornaments look better.  Since I haven't been able to find BB ply at my local supplier and now have to order on-line, I may switch to something like 1/16" aircraft ply in the future.

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I've always used 1/16th aircraft ply and people love them.  I've cut as many as 10 at once, but really don't like the thicker blades needed for that.  Mostly stack cut 4 or 5 at a time now, and really enjoy the Pegas #1 modified geometry blades.  

 

  My only problem with those blades is that, even though I have the Pegas blade chucks, I can't seem to keep the bottom blade in the holder unless I lightly scuff it with sandpaper before starting.  Same with the 2/0 size.  NO FUZZIES on the back with those blades.

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If you go to the hobby stores and see all the laser cut ornaments from China they appear to be made from 1/8" as well.. I'm not sure what type of plywood. Doesn't really feel like BBply.. they feel really light and maybe some sort of real cheap ply.. 

I kinda like the idea for the 1/16" and have thought many times about buying some to try.. especially since many of the laser engraved ornaments I've been doing as of late are 2 layers.. I'm not even sure if my local suppliers has anything less than 1/8.. Where do you all find the thin stuff? 

I like the painted backer on my laser cut stuff so much I've been considering doing the same with my scrolled ornaments.. The backer brings out the details so much better than just a plain cut ornament.. Also gives a spot on the back side to engrave or write your name or logo etc.. which I have not done yet but thinking I need to.. I'd take a lot of time to do this on the laser though so I think a small branding iron or even just a rubber stamp and clear over it.  

 

DSC00475.JPG

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On 11/27/2023 at 7:35 PM, kmmcrafts said:

I get asked quite often if I can paint the edges of my ornaments like I do on some of them.. I then have to explain that some of my stuff is laser cut and others is scrolled.. It'd be tough to paint the edges on some of the really detailed ornaments.. but the darker edges does give some depth look to the otherwise flat ornament.. they sometimes then ask if I can just laser cut the design so they can have the dark edge look..😂  

Kevin @kmmcrafts, just a thought, I haven't tried it, but it might work.  Dip the ornament in paint and sand the surface back to bare wood after it dries.  You would of course have to use a paint that does not penetrate into the wood.  

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On 11/29/2023 at 5:13 PM, Wooden Lace said:

I've always used 1/16th aircraft ply and people love them.  I've cut as many as 10 at once, but really don't like the thicker blades needed for that.  Mostly stack cut 4 or 5 at a time now, and really enjoy the Pegas #1 modified geometry blades.  

 

  My only problem with those blades is that, even though I have the Pegas blade chucks, I can't seem to keep the bottom blade in the holder unless I lightly scuff it with sandpaper before starting.  Same with the 2/0 size.  NO FUZZIES on the back with those blades.

Can you share your source for 1/16" aircraft ply?

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33 minutes ago, TAIrving said:

Kevin @kmmcrafts, just a thought, I haven't tried it, but it might work.  Dip the ornament in paint and sand the surface back to bare wood after it dries.  You would of course have to use a paint that does not penetrate into the wood.  

 

29 minutes ago, BadBob said:

Is there such a thing?

Similar to this is done in the CNC would where you want to paint the engraved parts but not the main block of wood.. What I do for that is seal it up with at least 3-4 coats of clear.. then paint the carved section and sand any overspray of the paint off then clear over the whole project.. It's quite a process and I would for sure not want to do that with the 1000+ ornaments I sell each year.. LOL Even if you were to tape both sides and spray paint the ornament and then peel off the tape.. the paint soaks into the fibers unless you seal it "really well" with clear.. so it's not a quick or easy process... Can it be done.. sure it can but not in a production type setting where you need practical processes to manage time vrs. money.. 

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It's been several years since I purchased any of the 1/16th plywood, and all my records are "somewhere", since we've moved twice in 2 years.   I did a Google search for 1/16th aircraft ply, several names came up, and Aircraft Spruce sounded really familiar, and my husband agreed. They have 8 locations, including Canada and Alaska, so shipping is quite convenient.

You can find them at aircraftspruce.com.  Customer Service is 800-861-3192 and their Order line is 877-477-7823. Check their website for additional numbers for outside US and one for Canada as well.

It's Finnish birch, their quality was always great and shipping was really quick.   I also tried their 1/32nd.  The people who didn't like it thought it felt flimsy, and those that liked it described it as delicate.  You can't please everyone, but I've never had any complaints with the 1/16th.  Hope this helps.

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