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New to Scrolling


Liz Weir

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I just got a scroll saw (RBI Hawk 226) and have barely had a chance to turn it on as yet. I've been doing creative stuff all my life - sewing, drafting sewing patterns, I am a master level costumer (historical), I've been doing commercial embroidery digitizing for 25 years, and more. If I'm not learning, I'm bored, so I keep picking up new hobbies to learn. Looking forward to this new adventure! 😍

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Welcome to the village. I am Mark from California. I too have the 26" Hawk.  Nice choice.

With your introduction, you will pick up scrollsaw fast.  Then we can see some of your ideas. 

It is always fun to learn from masters :)

Feel free to ask dumb questions. I did a lot.  I still do.  But this village likes to help.  

Edited by preprius
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Welcome Liz to the Village. From what I hear, you have a great saw. Like you, I’ve done a variety of different crafting and learning over the years. While I do have embroidery machines, I have stayed away from learning the digitizing my own patterns. As far as sewing, I’ve done some basic stuff, but left the real sewing to my mom who was the expert. It was when I lost her to Alzheimer’s that I turned to the scroll saw. That was soon to be 8 years ago.

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Liz, I'm Jerry from Colorado.  No kidding, you have come to the right place. Lot of help here and you will keep learing. With your background you will have no trouble with the scroll saw. From what I hear seamtreesses make great scrollers. I used to watch my wife sew and picked up a few tricks I could do with the scroll saw.  One other thing, scrolling is verrrrry addictive as others have said. You will find that with other chores you have to do, you can hardly wait so you can get to scrolling. There is always something to learn, something new. Welcome to the Village, you will be happy here and you will not get bored.

Jerry

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you all for the welcome! Sorry it took me a while to get back here, this is a busy time (which I'm sure you all know). 

Update: I now have two Hawk 226VS scroll saws. I thought I got a good deal on my first one (obviously very lightly used for $275), but I found an absolute steal! A 226VS still sealed in the original box, never been opened, for $250. I don't "need" a second scroll saw, but I couldn't pass up that deal!

I called Bushton this morning to find out how old the machines are and to see if parts are still available - the first one was manufactured in 1996 and the "new" one was manufactured in 2000. The lady I talked to said that I stole both of those machines at the price I paid. Both machines are fully supported, parts easily available. 

Here is the stand I made for the first machine. It's at a height comfortable to use while sitting, tilted forward to make scrolling less stressful on my neck & shoulders. The saw is not on a shelf, it sits in grooves (dadoes) that I routered into the top of the 2x4's. I'm planning on adding shelves or drawers in the bottom once I figure out what sizes I need. 

I'm going to make a stand for the second machine and bring that one in the house so I can use it when the shop is too hot (always in Texas summers) or too cold (occasionally in winter, today being one of those cold days). 

image.thumb.jpeg.dc5cae6a7b23727e3edd68af6ba50924.jpeg image.thumb.jpeg.f6ee1e604bd70b6d973f34c72bc8e535.jpeg

Again, thanks for the welcomes, info, and tips! 

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  • 5 weeks later...
1 hour ago, heppnerguy said:

glad you have you on board. Whenever someone says something about the difficulty of scrolling, I often tell them that it is a lot like sewing. If one can sew they already possess the skills for scrolling.

 Welcome to The Village from Southern Arizona.

Dick

heppnerguy

Thanks! I've noticed many similarities. The fact that I have to angle the wood somewhat to get a straight cut is driving me crazy, though - when I'm sewing, a straight feed gives me a straight seam! I've tried several different blades and they all do the same. I also need to learn how much pressure to put on the wood to get it to feed properly; I have a tendency to push too hard and that distorts the blade.

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On 1/26/2024 at 9:20 AM, Liz Weir said:

Thanks! I've noticed many similarities. The fact that I have to angle the wood somewhat to get a straight cut is driving me crazy, though - when I'm sewing, a straight feed gives me a straight seam! I've tried several different blades and they all do the same. I also need to learn how much pressure to put on the wood to get it to feed properly; I have a tendency to push too hard and that distorts the blade.

You are not alone with these two problems. I too went through these very things. I may have a couple of solutions for you to try.

First of all, about trying to get the blades to travel straight for you.....A solution I have found is using a #3 Pegas blade mgt. This has become my 'go to' blade for a lot of my work. The difference is, as I understand it, most scroll saw blades have the teeth stamped out and this makes one side of the blade's teeth to stand out on one side causing them to cut to that angle. The mgt Pegas blade are  machined so that the teeth are in line and they cut on a straight line more like you are used to for the feed of a sewing machine. The Pegas blades are much sharper than most of the other blades so you will need to go slower and be careful not to force the blades but learn to let the blade do the cutting. I recommend that you probably need to cut with you machine running at about medium speed, remembering that the blade cuts nothing until you put pressure to the wood. That brings up the question as to what wood do you do most of the cutting on. Because the Pegas blades are so sharp I can cut almost any thickness and type of wood with ease.

   As soon as you can start to feel some resistance from the wood, it is time to think about replacing the blade. On a 3 inch thick hardwood board the time I get from my blades is about an hour.

If you have any questions about any thing I have said or any other item about scroll sawing, please feel free to ask me.

Dick

heppnerguy

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On 1/28/2024 at 11:25 AM, heppnerguy said:

You are not alone with these two problems. I too went through these very things. I may have a couple of solutions for you to try.

First of all, about trying to get the blades to travel straight for you.....A solution I have found is using a #3 Pegas blade mgt. This has become my 'go to' blade for a lot of my work. The difference is, as I understand it, most scroll saw blades have the teeth stamped out and this makes one side of the blade's teeth to stand out on one side causing them to cut to that angle. The mgt Pegas blade are  machined so that the teeth are in line and they cut on a straight line more like you are used to for the feed of a sewing machine. The Pegas blades are much sharper than most of the other blades so you will need to go slower and be careful not to force the blades but learn to let the blade do the cutting. I recommend that you probably need to cut with you machine running at about medium speed, remembering that the blade cuts nothing until you put pressure to the wood. That brings up the question as to what wood do you do most of the cutting on. Because the Pegas blades are so sharp I can cut almost any thickness and type of wood with ease.

   As soon as you can start to feel some resistance from the wood, it is time to think about replacing the blade. On a 3 inch thick hardwood board the time I get from my blades is about an hour.

If you have any questions about any thing I have said or any other item about scroll sawing, please feel free to ask me.

Dick

heppnerguy

I was doing some reading about blades & saw the stamped vs machined info mentioned, but the article didn't say who made which types of blades. I'll definitely order some Pegas blades. Thank you!

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On 1/26/2024 at 11:42 AM, Bill WIlson said:

Try standing or sitting slightly off center to your saw.  If the blade drifts away from the line, to the right, then move a little the right and you will trick your brain into thinking that you are cutting straight.  

Good idea! I'll give that a try. 

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