Not complete plaque. . .

[preprius]

My goal is to create a plaque that

1)holds and protects an 8 inch silicon wafer. It is like a thin sheet of glass. 

2) Has Co-workers name with a title of Technical Product Lead "TPL".

project in work... All wood shown is Myrtle also known as pepper wood. 

Our project name has "pepper" in its name.

2 pics shows the un-stained full concept.

Notice top portion of pic shows the pattern and concept.  Kinda a saturn ring the label TPL. Yes this is a play on letters "JPL".  2 moons symbolize his two Jr engineers. 

When this guy holds his weekly meetings he has a calming effect of the whole team. He really deserves recognition. His background on his computer shows space pictures. 

next 2 pics shows stained plaque and contrast of his name letters. 

I will be pouring polyester resin over the whole 8 inch wafer.  Also the moons will have cut wafer material cover with resin. 

My last progress was Dec 18th. I got an unwanted b-day present that paused my progress.

I like the font choice but when choosing a font, I forgot to think about angle cuts.  See last picture. This small thin piece of wood was a concern but overall it came out great. 

Need to make BB plywood backer, glue letters in,  seal and finish boards.  Then add wafer material and pour polyester resin. 

If there is any cool things I can do before finishing it I would love ideas.

[TAIrving]

Mark, that looks fabulous!  Henry and his co-workers will love it.  The font looks challenging, especially the thin inner part of the N and U.  

I had some of those silicon wafers from a job long ago, haven't seen them for years and doubt that I still have them.  But I do remember how delicate they are.

I see a possible problem with one part of your finishing plan, the part where you save the resin pouring till last.  Resin can be a challenging material to work with.  I suggest you practice on scrap material until you are comfortable with it and the process.  

TJ Brown has an article in the "How To" section of the Scroll Saw Village forum.  Check that out.

Resin is a liquid (before it sets) and likes to run everywhere, especially through any gaps, however small, between the project piece and the backer, but also into the grain of the wood itself.  That is messy enough in and of itself, but when you pour the resin ever so carefully to be precisely level with the surface of the finished work, then any leak will result in the level of the resin dropping and no longer be level with the surface.  

Choose your resin carefully.  Resin makes bubbles which look awful in the finished work.  And the dried wood has air in its fibers which leak out into the resin as bubbles.  Fast setting resin doesn't leak so much but does capture the bubbles.  Slower setting resin leaks more but gives the bubbles time to resolve.  Many how-to articles talk about ways to deal with the bubbles.  

I will stop rambling now, but strongly encourage you to practice before putting the resin in the finished project.

 

[preprius]

Just read the tutorial.

Thanks for the suggestion.

I will glue on the backer first. Then make sure the seal from each circle to backer. Maybe spray clear coat spray so wood is not going from bubble layer.

I will do the smaller circles first. 

If stuff goes wrong, I can easily cut smaller failure out.  

I chose the polyester resin which can be tricky to figure out how many drops of catalyst to use. 

My wood is 3/8", so the instructions say do resin in layers.   Oh more ways to screw it up.