JonH Posted February 15 Report Share Posted February 15 Still very new to scroll sawing and I like this little hummingbird pattern as a fairly simple project. However, the cut line at the shoulder has me baffled. If I drill in a starter hole to get the blade in, I either have a cut line with a round drill hole or try to make the line the same width as the hole I made. Suppose I could make it more of a teardrop line. But really, how could I match the pattern? Scan 20240214_0009.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted February 15 Report Share Posted February 15 You are over thinking it. just try to use the smallest bit you can to match the size of the blade. Drill at the very edge of the line. Either side is fine. If you are that anal about it you can do a couple things and that is increase the thickness of the line after first cut to eliminate the roundness and slightly enlarge the line past your initial entry hole. No one in the world except you is going to know. Remember you are making a hand made item. You are not a robot or a laser cutting the pattern. I bet when you are all done not one of your lines will be perfectly straight. But they will look fine because they will be close enough. It is something newbies must get over and the more you scroll the more little tricks you pick up. Good luck. barb.j.enders, JessL and danny 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonH Posted February 15 Author Report Share Posted February 15 Thanks JT. Now I just need to locate some of those needle drill bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctutor Posted February 15 Report Share Posted February 15 AMAZON,COM HAS A BUNCH OF VARIOUS SELECTIONS FOR LESS THAN 20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roberta Moreton Posted February 15 Report Share Posted February 15 The bits will be numbered (possibly #62). I buy my drill bits and blades either from Artcraftersonline or Wooden Teddy Bear. Harbor freight also sells a pack that includes 1/8” down to some numbered tiny bits as well. homebru 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted February 15 Report Share Posted February 15 (edited) What you are talking about is called a vein line. It really depends on the design but I often drill my tiny hole on both ends of the line. Make it look more a part of the design. Also, on the design you referenced you could just not cut it. Only you would know. This might help: https://qtena.com/jewelers-saw-blade-chart-br-dimensions-drill-sizes-br-pi-5878.html Edited February 15 by NC Scroller OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny Knappen Posted February 15 Report Share Posted February 15 I have the Micro Drill Bits on my website. They are $8 per pack/10. I use them all the time. OCtoolguy and homebru 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JessL Posted February 15 Report Share Posted February 15 I buy my bits from artcraftersonline.com. Denny ships quickly and is wonderful to work with. He has micro drill bits down to #70. I use a lot of 2/0 spiral blades and need those tiny drill bits. homebru and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wichman Posted February 15 Report Share Posted February 15 A couple of options to think about. #1. micro bit plus a spiral blade, use the spiral blades to ease the shoulders for a smooth line #2 micro bit, drill two or three holes in line with the pattern, creating a slot to feed the blade through. Difficult to line up but doable. With the Hegner and the slot in the table, you can put the blade in the wood before you put the blade in the saw. Takes a little wrangling and practice but again, doable. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankEV Posted February 15 Report Share Posted February 15 (edited) Not neccessarsily the most correct wway, but you can also do the opposite. Use the thickest (largest blade) that fits the hole you dilled and cut the line with just one pass, shaving it slightly if necessary to elimnate the seeing the hole. A detail line as in your pattern, should, I believe, be wider than what we typically refer to as veining. It needs to be wide enough to see daylight (or the backer) through. Think of as Artistic License...and you are the artist...the pattern is just a guide not gospel. Edited February 15 by FrankEV OCtoolguy, JessL and danny 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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