Silly idea I had about using a laser for laying out scrollsaw design

[tdibiasio]

Hi All - I am just wondering if anyone has tried using a diode laser set on a really low setting to mark your cut lines for a fret work design instead of shelf liner\paper and spray glue?  I am really finding it frustrating to see my pattern lines (mostly when two lines are close to one another) after getting about 25% of the way into a project, especially when I use spiral blades.  The thought just popped into my head because a laser is able to generate a super thin crisp line.  I bring all of my scroll saw designs into inkscape (svg) first anyway to manipulate size and soften edges to meet my style so it would not be any extra steps for me to do the design conversion.

Just wondering if anyone has tried this and if so was it not worth the extra effort?

Edited March 28 by tdibiasio

[BadBob]

I have not done it, but I have seen it done in videos. The only problem I can see with it is that you would need to hit the lines perfectly unless you are going to paint or round over the edges. If I had a laser I would do it.

[kmmcrafts]

I've got a laser but I don't do that because it's time more time consuming to set up laser to do the quick engrave just so I can go back to cut it, LOL... If I'm setting up the laser to do something I'm just going to cut it on the laser while it's there and set up to run.. But my laser is more than just a low powered laser for marking / engraving so I can cut it out quickly and easily. 

In fact this is what I do now when people request personalization.. it's too time consuming to get a un-perfect scrolled ornament lined up to laser engrave on it so I just do the engrave and then cut it on the laser too so everything is lined up perfect. 

[Scrappile]

silly idea use AI to make a scroll saw pattern of a picture!   Maybe I do not know.

[barb.j.enders]

I recall reading on a FB page that someone was doing this.  

[Denny Knappen]

I agree with BadBob.  The problem is to be exactly on the line.

[hotshot]

I will say, I've seen this approach on metal, and because metal heats and expands when you cut it, pattern adherence can be a problem for very fine detail.  I plan to try this on my coins when I eventually get a laser.

On wood, for normal patterns, having a white paper background with very black lines seems like it would be easier to see than a burn line against a wood backdrop.

It certainly doesn't hurt to experiment though.  I would be interesting to see how easily a shallow laser line could be sanded off if you happen to stray a bit form the line. 

Edited March 29 by hotshot

[CharleyL]

Improving the lighting on your scroll saw to minimize the blade shadows will do wonders to improving your ability to follow the pattern lines with your scroll saw. When the blade shadows and the pattern lines are about the same shade of black it can be quite a problem for your eyes and reflexes to keep the blade following the pattern lines.  I did this to my saw almost 20 years ago. In fact, one of my earliest posts on this website talked about this and the lights that I had installed on my saw. Doing this is a lot less expensive than buying a laser too.

I still use an old HP Laserjet 4 printer for printing my patterns, because it produces very nice lines using a high temperature wax based ink like most photocopiers. I still prefer this over inkjet prints.

Charley 

[kmmcrafts]

On 3/29/2024 at 11:14 AM, hotshot said:

I will say, I've seen this approach on metal, and because metal heats and expands when you cut it, pattern adherence can be a problem for very fine detail.  I plan to try this on my coins when I eventually get a laser.

On wood, for normal patterns, having a white paper background with very black lines seems like it would be easier to see than a burn line against a wood backdrop.

It certainly doesn't hurt to experiment though.  I would be interesting to see how easily a shallow laser line could be sanded off if you happen to stray a bit form the line. 

I think for metal you'll need a fiber laser.. or maybe spray-paint the coin and then laser the paint off to reveal the lines.. I don't think any laser marks on metal without coatings other than a fiber laser which are not cheap. 

[Wichman]

At the shop I retired from they had a laser, a universal 1000. I tried engraving some wood and while it worked it was sub par at best. For me it was the lack of contrast and the grain structure of some of the wood (oak) interfering with the "readability" of the laser lines. On Baltic Birch or Maple the lines stand out well, but oak or walnut just don't have the contrast for this to be doable.

[Phantom Scroller]

I've was always taught they are guide lines to follow, so if it was lasered on ply you might just take the first layer off trying to remove the lines but would be ok on good wood. Practice on rubbish piece first to get the right burn and see how it goes on ply is my thought. Roly