Dremel Router Fix

[Insane Dust Maker]

Browsing through the topics I came across Rocktime’s post of 28 April 2019, I have the same problem so I tried the Jam nut ( here in South Africa they are known by two descriptions a Jam nut or Half Nut). So I put one in and I definitely think it will work, I do have a concern though, I fully understand that you have to hold the Dremel right at the top at the cord entry and push down evenly, but did noice on the right side where the depth gauge is there is a little “slop” it gets better as you push the Dremel further down to drill point.Need to figure is there a way to get rid of this little bit of “slop”

[OCtoolguy]

Keep us posted on your fix. If you find one.

[Insane Dust Maker]

Will do it’s not serious but I’m a little of a perfectionist when it comes to things like that.

[Wichman]

9 hours ago, Insane Dust Maker said:

Browsing through the topics I came across Rocktime’s post of 28 April 2019, I have the same problem so I tried the Jam nut ( here in South Africa they are known by two descriptions a Jam nut or Half Nut). So I put one in and I definitely think it will work, I do have a concern though, I fully understand that you have to hold the Dremel right at the top at the cord entry and push down evenly, but did noice on the right side where the depth gauge is there is a little “slop” it gets better as you push the Dremel further down to drill point.Need to figure is there a way to get rid of this little bit of “slop”

I just now went through my Dremel plunge router attachment, I was able to reduce the "slop" to darn near zero.

Here's what I did with pictures  

My plunge router adapter, yours may vary:

   

I'm using a cordless Dremel, with a micro usb charge port. I can recharge the battery without having to remove the multitool. I bought the three jaw drill chuck adapter, also Dremel brand, no messing with various collets.

  

Unscrew the two flat tip screw that hold the head on:

Using the apropriate wench tighten the posts, there are bolts in the bottom of the base.

reassemble.

Pretty simple, tightened up the slop really well.

Additionally; I lubed the shaft and bearing that locks the shaft. The goal is to reduce slop by tightening the stop while still allowing the head to move up and down the shaft freely. I used micro fine Teflon powder that I bought from https://www.howardpianoindustries.com/micro-fine-ptfe-powder/

I know you're in SA, but this may give you the lead you need to find some locally to you, other wise just a light coat of a good lube.

 

Edited April 7 by Wichman

[Insane Dust Maker]

Okay having a good look at the Dremel the slop is at the two chrome uprights as Wichman has correctly identified, what I did was I made myself two shims 1/2” x 3/4” put a slight curve in them along the length an push the in placed as per the attached photo. The slop was gone, the operation of the plunge is a much firmer operation which some people may not like. Drilling some test holes using scrap I tried to methods of doing the plunge, the first one I pushed down from the top it works well but as stated it’s firm but it drilled the hole where I wanted it. The second method is going to be my preferred option I pushed down on both handles and kept my thumbs on the shaft screws, as I finished drilling the hole I pulled the handles up but I let the thumbs do the work as I used them as a fulcrum, I found the quite easy and drilled a good test holes to make sure I was comfortable using it like this.

[Insane Dust Maker]

Just a friendly warning when pushing the shims in use a long nosed pliers to prevent cutting your fingers.

And if you try this method and you not happy using it like this no problems just loosen the top screws lift the router top off and the two shims will fall out.

[Insane Dust Maker]

I have found out that jewelry suppliers keep micron thickness Brass shims, this would be ideal to shim the Dremel Plunge Router as discussed above using the ultra thin shims would make the plunge action a little “softer”. I did a test yesterday on double stack scrap 1/8” Baltic Birch, I measured from the left side and from the top and made a point where I want to drill, I then turned the wood around and did the same measurement on the bottom piece of ply, I then turned the wood face up and drilled the hole on the mark I made, then I turned the wood upside down to see where the exit was and it was exactly on the mark of the bottom piece, so I’m more than happy with this little mod if I am ever in the area where a jewelry supplier is I’ll buy some Brass shim to replace my mod but as is I’m happy. Drilled and cut about 50 holes yesterday with no problems at all.