OCtoolguy Posted May 8 Report Share Posted May 8 I have a Delta 28-206 bandsaw. It's the Chinese version of the U.S.A. made 14 inch band saws that have been around for eons. Anyway, I thought I did all the due diligence regarding what fits what and bought a used Delta fence on eBay. It should fit. But, it doesn't. It's about an inch and a half short on one end. So, my question is, for anybody who has a Delta 14" band saw, could you please measure the table top across the flats from front to rear. Not across. Mine measures 16 1/8". So, I guess it would make sense that the fence wouldn't fit. But now I don't know which fence I should be searching for. There are no new fences from Delta so whatever I buy will have to be used. Thanks for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted May 9 Report Share Posted May 9 14-3/8" front to back. side to side is 14-1/8" I use Carter's Magna fences. I bought his latest style about 6 years ago. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted May 9 Author Report Share Posted May 9 Thanks J.T. I have since found out that they made 2 different sized tables in that same model number. Unfortunately, I have the larger of the 2. So, I've now got a nice fence to sell. Oh well, I was wondering what my next project would look like. Now, I know it's taking pics, posting to the normal venues, and hoping someone comes along and wants it. JTTHECLOCKMAN 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rash_powder Posted May 13 Report Share Posted May 13 Kreg makes a nice fence for bandsaws. I have one on mine; and while I don't use the saw much when I do the fence performs as expected. I've learned the key to using a fence on the bandsaw is getting the blade to track dead straight so that there is no drift, then set the fence square to the table. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAIrving Posted May 13 Report Share Posted May 13 34 minutes ago, rash_powder said: I've learned the key to using a fence on the bandsaw is getting the blade to track dead straight so that there is no drift, then set the fence square to the table. What is the trick to doing that? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted May 13 Report Share Posted May 13 1 hour ago, TAIrving said: What is the trick to doing that? A good feather board really helps. OCtoolguy and danny 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rash_powder Posted May 13 Report Share Posted May 13 look for some alex snodgrass videos on youtube. he is the bandsaw master and can explain it far better than i can. OCtoolguy, TAIrving, Heli_av8tor and 1 other 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted May 13 Report Share Posted May 13 3 hours ago, rash_powder said: Kreg makes a nice fence for bandsaws. I have one on mine; and while I don't use the saw much when I do the fence performs as expected. I've learned the key to using a fence on the bandsaw is getting the blade to track dead straight so that there is no drift, then set the fence square to the table. You never set a fence square to a table. Neither on a bandsaw or a tablesaw. It is always set square to the blade. Unless you can square your table to the blade. Good luck. Hawk and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rash_powder Posted May 15 Report Share Posted May 15 On 5/13/2024 at 10:54 AM, JTTHECLOCKMAN said: You never set a fence square to a table. Neither on a bandsaw or a tablesaw. It is always set square to the blade. Unless you can square your table to the blade. Good luck. I'm not sure how other table saws go together so I can't speak for them. My Craftsman contractor saw, a model 113, has wiggle in the blocks that the blade and motor and everything bolts to the table with. I squared the blade to a mitre slot, and then my fence to the mitre slot. It may not be the correct way, but thats how I have done my band saw also - made the fence square to the mitre slot and then set the tracking/drift to the fence. I don't recall where I read/saw it, but the person who relayed the info was smarter than I so I have to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted May 15 Report Share Posted May 15 48 minutes ago, rash_powder said: I'm not sure how other table saws go together so I can't speak for them. My Craftsman contractor saw, a model 113, has wiggle in the blocks that the blade and motor and everything bolts to the table with. I squared the blade to a mitre slot, and then my fence to the mitre slot. It may not be the correct way, but thats how I have done my band saw also - made the fence square to the mitre slot and then set the tracking/drift to the fence. I don't recall where I read/saw it, but the person who relayed the info was smarter than I so I have to follow. That is fine if you miter slots are parallel to each other, then that is correct. A bandsaw is not as easy. Every time you install a new blade it can sit on the tires differently and will track different. Bandsaw blades are flimsy so they being tough to track straight. Good luck. As I said I neve set my bandsaw fence to the table. Always to the blade that is doing the cutting. I use a fence that is not attached to table but uses magnets so I can fine tune it easily. Good luck. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted May 15 Author Report Share Posted May 15 (edited) 2 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said: That is fine if you miter slots are parallel to each other, then that is correct. A bandsaw is not as easy. Every time you install a new blade it can sit on the tires differently and will track different. Bandsaw blades are flimsy so they being tough to track straight. Good luck. As I said I neve set my bandsaw fence to the table. Always to the blade that is doing the cutting. I use a fence that is not attached to table but uses magnets so I can fine-tune it easily. Good luck. Edited May 15 by OCtoolguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted May 15 Author Report Share Posted May 15 Up til now I've been using a H/F bar magnet. It is very strong and all I need to do is tap it in the direction required. I'd love to have a couple of those mag switches but they are just too pricey for this old cheapskate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rash_powder Posted May 16 Report Share Posted May 16 2 hours ago, OCtoolguy said: Up til now I've been using a H/F bar magnet. It is very strong and all I need to do is tap it in the direction required. I'd love to have a couple of those mag switches but they are just too pricey for this old cheapskate If your local community has a spring clean up week, curb shop for old microwaves. They are pretty easy to get open. Disconnect the cap and short it with a screw driver; find the magnetron (its about a 4" cube of sheet metal). Get that out and carefully rip it open - there isn't anything that will hurt you in there. You'll find two 3.5" ceramic donut magnets. They are about 1/2" thick. They stick fantastic but can be a bit tough to get off the table sometimes. I've about a dozen of them on drill press and bandsaw. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Finn Posted May 20 Report Share Posted May 20 The key to getting a bandsaw to cut straight while using a fence is a SHARP BLADE! As soon as a new blade starts to "drift" replace the blade. NC Scroller and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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