Ber Gueda Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 (edited) I just started to cut some wood and try my new Pégas. Where I live I have a rich source of pine wood and these have been the first pieces I tried. I just wanted to know your experience with this kind of wood (I guess it's kind of medium soft). The thing is that I have been having some issues cutting 8/6 and 8/8 in. (2,5 - 3,5 cm) with modified geometry blades #9 and Skip reverse #9. I am not sure if it's normal and what is your experience with this thickness. What kind of blades would you recommend? Thanks for your help. Edited May 28 by Ber Gueda OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wichman Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 I've used pine and redwood to make compound cut ornaments 1 1/2" x 1 1/2". The thin dark lines are significantly harder than the wider lighter wood, this can throw off your cutting because the blade will want to follow the softer wood, the blades can bend inside the wood and create a curved cut inside the vertical kerf. Adding tension can help as well as increasing your speed a little. Using skip tooth blades will help as well. My blade of choice is FD Polar, these blades are stiffer than others and resist the side flex better than the other blades that I have tried. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ber Gueda Posted May 29 Author Report Share Posted May 29 Thanks, I am totally new to scroll sawing and I guess that most of my problems are not related to the type of wood or blades, but to my lack of skills. I guess that patience and practice might do the job. I am using Pégas blades. I am afraid I can't get here some Polar blades to give them a try, so probably I will have to attach to the Pégas. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
don in brooklin on Posted May 29 Report Share Posted May 29 I agree with Witchman on the Polar blades. If you are attached to Pegas blades I have used Pegas skip tooth blades (#6) with success when cutting 1 1/2 ornaments. I think the issue is the reverse as it does not clear the saw dust as well. With cutting pine it is soft and sometimes the grain will make you go off the line. When cutting cutting thicker pine I will use a smaller blade like a #5 or even #3. You just have to slow down the feed rate. A #9 will tend to grab the wood more. danny and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrollerpete Posted May 29 Report Share Posted May 29 I agree with Don #9 blade is way to big for pine and most of the cutting on a scrollsaw in my opinion danny and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roberta Moreton Posted May 29 Report Share Posted May 29 What type of pattern are you cutting? Blade choice is determined by pattern, wood type, and thickness. I don’t generally choose pine. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ber Gueda Posted May 30 Author Report Share Posted May 30 I thought that the thickest the blank is, the bigger the blade should be. I will try some #5 and reduce the speed. I am not cutting complicated patterns (I am a newby), but I am having problema cutting some angles and keeping straight lines. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted May 30 Report Share Posted May 30 12 hours ago, Ber Gueda said: I thought that the thickest the blank is, the bigger the blade should be. I will try some #5 and reduce the speed. I am not cutting complicated patterns (I am a newby), but I am having problema cutting some angles and keeping straight lines. It depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If there are sharp corners, you may need smaller blades. The wood makes a difference. Feed rate matters, as does how much you are willing to sand. My go-to blade is a Pegas #3 MGT. If that isn't working, I'll switch to something else. I routinely cut 3/4-inch wood with a #3 blade. It is slow but smooth. Cutting straight takes practice. danny and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ber Gueda Posted May 30 Author Report Share Posted May 30 I tried today "smaller" blades... It was a great difference. Not so many mistakes and a more fluid cutting. Thanks everyone for your answers and help. danny and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted May 30 Report Share Posted May 30 I have to ask, what are you making in wood that thick? If you are just practicing, there are better ways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted May 31 Report Share Posted May 31 13 hours ago, OCtoolguy said: I have to ask, what are you making in wood that thick? If you are just practicing, there are better ways. WHo are you asking? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ber Gueda Posted May 31 Author Report Share Posted May 31 15 hours ago, OCtoolguy said: I have to ask, what are you making in wood that thick? If you are just practicing, there are better ways. I am practising with available wood of different thick (unfortunately I am not very close to direct suppliers). But I agree with you that maybe I did not choose the straightest way. I am cutting some pieces with not so many angles for the moment. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted May 31 Report Share Posted May 31 6 hours ago, BadBob said: WHo are you asking? The OP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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