jimmyG Posted June 11 Report Share Posted June 11 Over the last 10 months I've been busy trying to learn about woodworking and discovered what I like best are scroll sawing projects. I've learned a lot so far but have a very long way to go. I think I'm trying too many different things rather than learning how to do one thing well first. Need to stay off YouTube.... Just finished making a table saw picture framing jig/sled. Of course now I need to learn how to make some frames, or maybe not. How many of you make your own frames?? tomsteve, OCtoolguy and crupiea 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted June 11 Report Share Posted June 11 I have over the years made a few frames. Not all were standard 45 degree 4 sided frames either. really once a good accurate jig is made they become quite easy. Good luck and look forward to what you come up with. tomsteve and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomsteve Posted June 11 Report Share Posted June 11 ive made quite a few frames over the years. some have been simple with just rectangular wood and others stacked up trim of various profiles. the possibilities with frames are just about endless. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyG Posted June 11 Author Report Share Posted June 11 With A D D it's extremely difficult learning new things and have made more stupid ass mistakes than I will share. Cutting accurate miters is just part of the equation. I genuinely suck at measuring and will need to learn the proper way to come up with frame sizes without any mats. Some YouTube videos require an engineering degree. I need instructions a cave man can follow OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wichman Posted June 11 Report Share Posted June 11 Jimmy, in my experience the easiest and most accurate way to measure the length of the frame piece is to measure at the rabbet. The only calculation needed is to add 1/8" for "wiggle" room. For example; you're wanting to build an 11 x 14 frame, you would add an 1/8" to the length of each piece, so 2 pieces 11 1/8" and two pieces 14 1/8. Using a 45* tool (speed square, for example) mark a line on one end of your stick of molding (or just cut a 45 off one end); at the rabbet measure 14 1/8", mark a 45* line, measure from the outside marks to determine the length, use this to set the stop so that both pieces are exactly the same length. Rinse and repeat. barb.j.enders and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyG Posted June 11 Author Report Share Posted June 11 4 hours ago, Wichman said: Jimmy, in my experience the easiest and most accurate way to measure the length of the frame piece is to measure at the rabbet. The only calculation needed is to add 1/8" for "wiggle" room. For example; you're wanting to build an 11 x 14 frame, you would add an 1/8" to the length of each piece, so 2 pieces 11 1/8" and two pieces 14 1/8. Using a 45* tool (speed square, for example) mark a line on one end of your stick of molding (or just cut a 45 off one end); at the rabbet measure 14 1/8", mark a 45* line, measure from the outside marks to determine the length, use this to set the stop so that both pieces are exactly the same length. Rinse and repeat. Read it three times... Speed square, rabbet, rince & repeat got through... barb.j.enders 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wichman Posted June 11 Report Share Posted June 11 Where did I lose you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyG Posted June 11 Author Report Share Posted June 11 58 minutes ago, Wichman said: Where did I lose you? After For example.. barb.j.enders 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crupiea Posted June 11 Report Share Posted June 11 I just make mine out of bb. One big piece. Make it about an inch and a half wide or so and cut out the inside and outside. Like a big flimsy square or rectangle or whatever. Can easily make round frames like this as well. tried piecing parts together and gluing and all that and it was just too much hassle. This way i am still left with a black to use for another project. I then just paint it black and glue it to the backer. OCtoolguy and danny 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wichman Posted June 11 Report Share Posted June 11 1 hour ago, jimmyG said: After For example.. What is a frame size that you would typically use? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyG Posted June 11 Author Report Share Posted June 11 4 minutes ago, Wichman said: What is a frame size that you would typically use? No two frames would be the same. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wichman Posted June 11 Report Share Posted June 11 15 minutes ago, jimmyG said: No two frames would be the same. Throw me a bone. What is a frame size we can use for a demonstration? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyG Posted June 11 Author Report Share Posted June 11 7 minutes ago, Wichman said: Throw me a bone. What is a frame size we can use for a demonstration? 7-3/4" x 10-3/8" OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wichman Posted June 12 Report Share Posted June 12 2 hours ago, jimmyG said: 7-3/4" x 10-3/8" Is this the finished size of the panel? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyG Posted June 12 Author Report Share Posted June 12 Yes, it's the outer dimension on a 1/4" Baltic birch panel with no mat and wanting a 1/4" space between the artwork and the frame interior. I have a router table and cut rabbets before with some trial and error cutting them before frame is assembled. Tired of spending hours making firewood OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loskoppie Posted June 12 Report Share Posted June 12 Love this as it what I am wondering to try. Will rethink as my tools are not so many. There are wood working class or hobbies am thinking of going to see what they have to offer. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barb.j.enders Posted June 12 Report Share Posted June 12 This is the video I have used to figure out how to make floating frames. I have cut with a hand saw & miter box. I still struggle with the measurements. Norm Fengstad and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roberta Moreton Posted June 13 Report Share Posted June 13 (edited) I take my finished pieces to Hobby Lobby or Michael’s, (whichever is having a sale) and get the frames there. There is usually someone in the frames department to assist, I can also get them matted. The frames are usually buy one, get one 50% off. Edited June 13 by Roberta Moreton OCtoolguy and danny 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyG Posted June 13 Author Report Share Posted June 13 Got prices from Michael's before and it was way to expensive. I can fuxk up a lot of wood experimenting cheaper. barb.j.enders and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wichman Posted June 14 Report Share Posted June 14 Sorry for the delay. I was under the weather and yesterday my son was in (scheduled) surgery for 4 hrs, a long day. Here is a drawing of the molding with where to measure, using my method. Are you following me so far? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norm Fengstad Posted June 16 Report Share Posted June 16 On 6/12/2024 at 6:26 AM, barb.j.enders said: This is the video I have used to figure out how to make floating frames. I have cut with a hand saw & miter box. I still struggle with the measurements. Thanks Barb Enders I am going to try this method out OCtoolguy and barb.j.enders 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyG Posted June 18 Author Report Share Posted June 18 I think I will just stick to scrolling pieces that don't need a frame since it's obvious I'm not up to the task of making any. Made a table saw 45 degree sled. Cut one side with the left angle cut the mate with the other angle and the miter looks good (on the reverse side) Made a frame and the miters weren't tight but since it was being painted the minor gaps were filled. Worst part measuring across: Top is 1/8" wider than the bottom. Dealing with OCD & ADD is a nightmare (Rush to do something and can't concentrate to get anything done) OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 (edited) Sounds like maybe your saw blade is not true to vertical. Have you done a good tune up of your saw. A minor adjustment can make a huge difference. There are some good videos on doing a tune-up. Edited June 29 by OCtoolguy danny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankEV Posted July 6 Report Share Posted July 6 On 6/11/2024 at 5:26 AM, jimmyG said: ...Just finished making a table saw picture framing jig/sled. Of course now I need to learn how to make some frames... Interesting, you made a framing jig/sled but don't know how to make a frame. Simple flat rail frames are easy to make. Multi part frame rails, fancy sculptured rails, etc. are more difficult but not usually warented for Scroll Saw Art Panels. This is what I do for all my Art panels. I use 3/4" Poplar or Premium Pine x 12" wide boards the I rip down to 1/34" wide "sticks" that I use to make my frames. I also use a frame cutting sled that I made that eliminates the need for meassuring. see: I rough cut the sticks to the Frame rail lengths adding about 2 inches. I than use my table router with a 1/4" rabbeting bit to rabbet the frame rails before I cut the miters. If you do not have a router table, the rabits can also be cut on the table saw with careful setup. My art panels are 3/8" thick, so I rabbet the sticks (which are actually 5/8" thick) 1/4"x 1/2". After the rabbets are done, I use the cutting jig to cut the miters. I simply need to set the stop about 1/16" longer than the panel width or height dimension. I use Titebond III wood glue with a little dusting of fine sawdust and a Seddy strap clamp to glue up the corner joints. After. the glue joints dry, I reinforce the joint from the back with 'V' nails and then sand to eliminate any glue squeeze out. I use 150/220/600 grit to get a very smooth finish. That is the easy part. Finishing is another story. Stains, Paints, Acrylics, and Lacquers are just some of the options. The choice of what finish I use depends a lot on the art panel, with Black Paint or Lacquer being my most often 'go-to' finishes, I'm still learning how to get a nice flawless finish which has never actually happened yet. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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