kmmcrafts Posted September 6 Report Share Posted September 6 Just got home from my local HF store... No saw was on display yet, however they did have a empty spot on a shelf with the tag for it. I think they were working on getting a display set up but I just showed up to early, LOL. If they weren't busy I might have asked to see one but they was quite busy and I didn't want to bother since I have zero intentions to actually buy one.. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted September 6 Report Share Posted September 6 This looks like the same saw with cosmetic differences. https://www.amazon.com/Bucktool-Inch-Scrow-Saw-Woodworking/dp/B0CPDT9BMW The Rikon version doesn't look much different. Here is another one. This time, pricing is by container. Does anyone need a couple of hundred scroll saws? https://www.allwin-tools.com/new-arrival-csa-certified-22-inch-variable-speed-scroll-saw-with-1-6a-motor-product/ Yet another one. Either they come from the same factory, or the Chinese are copying each other. MarieC, OCtoolguy and kmmcrafts 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted September 6 Report Share Posted September 6 Seems like some of these versions have better / more images to showcase what they're selling.. Have yet to see one with the saw set for angle cutting.. wonder if they'd give me a saw if I suggested to get some better more detailed photos.. I don't think there is any pictures of the lower blade clamp either.. maybe I've missed some of these images but seems like to me they need to showcase it better so any online shoppers would know better what they're getting. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted September 6 Report Share Posted September 6 Here is one that shows it tilted. https://baileigh.com/bss-22-22-scroll-saw I suspect the people posting the listings know little about scroll saws. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted September 6 Report Share Posted September 6 19 minutes ago, BadBob said: Here is one that shows it tilted. https://baileigh.com/bss-22-22-scroll-saw I suspect the people posting the listings know little about scroll saws. This one is knock off of the Jet saw.. It has the clamp and tension in one step upper clamp like the jet.. I bet it also has the round barrel style lower blade chuck like the Jet too. I've never seen this one before.. I was mostly talking about the HF saw or other brands of the same saw.. as the one you link to is different than those. OCtoolguy and MarieC 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted September 7 Report Share Posted September 7 (edited) There is a bunch of photos on the HF site. Not sure what you want to see. Just about all sites like the Buck have videos. It is the same saw. Edited September 7 by JTTHECLOCKMAN OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted September 7 Report Share Posted September 7 Hmm, maybe they changed up the photos since the other day or they didn't all load on my computer.. now I'm seeing two photos with one being angled to the right and one to the left.. other day there was no photos of the saw tilted for angle cutting.. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted September 7 Report Share Posted September 7 2 hours ago, kmmcrafts said: Hmm, maybe they changed up the photos since the other day or they didn't all load on my computer.. now I'm seeing two photos with one being angled to the right and one to the left.. other day there was no photos of the saw tilted for angle cutting.. Under the photos there is 5 more photos but you need to click on link. OCtoolguy and kmmcrafts 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jollyred Posted September 8 Report Share Posted September 8 Looking over the manual for the saw, it says to raise the upper arm, you need to reach to the back of the saw to pull a pin to release the arm. Once raised the pin needs to be pulled again to lower the arm. That is a pretty good distance on a 22" saw, and on a typical portrait style project would get pretty tedious. That alone would put me off this particular saw. Maybe someone who has actually used the saw could comment on this. Or maybe the pin could be removed and the arm raised and lowered like the DW788. Tom OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Posted September 8 Report Share Posted September 8 45 minutes ago, jollyred said: Looking over the manual for the saw, it says to raise the upper arm, you need to reach to the back of the saw to pull a pin to release the arm. Once raised the pin needs to be pulled again to lower the arm. That is a pretty good distance on a 22" saw, and on a typical portrait style project would get pretty tedious. That alone would put me off this particular saw. Maybe someone who has actually used the saw could comment on this. Or maybe the pin could be removed and the arm raised and lowered like the DW788. Tom Tom, I have used the Rikon version of this saw which is identical in almost every way, including the locking pin. I agree that it is a bit of a reach to unlock the pin every time the arm needs to be lowered. I have the "Lifter" attachment on my Dewalt which I overall think is better. I was seriously considering buying the Rikon when it came to my store, but after thinking about it more and more I think I will just stick with my 788. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted September 8 Report Share Posted September 8 That is the one thing that always turned me off on the Delta clone of the DeWalt.. as it has a pin at the back to release the upper arm so you can lower it back down.. After having a higher end saw that has a spring loaded upper arm I've been spoiled.. I don't even like having to raise and lower it on my Excalibur since I went to the Hawk and Hegner it's sure nice not to have to "lift the arm" out of the way as it does it by itself.. I also don't think I could go back to a saw that you can't really adjust how aggressive it cuts.. Dang it.. I was just back to HF yesterday and didn't even think to go see if they had one on the display shelf yet.. JJB and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Posted September 8 Report Share Posted September 8 HF in my area still doesn't have one on display. I'm still leaning toward staying with my current saw, but I want to try out the Bauer just for grins and giggles. I hope they let me install a blade and cut some wood. OCtoolguy and kmmcrafts 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted September 9 Report Share Posted September 9 (edited) Now I would think if you put your creative hats on you can overcome that pin. Lock it out by making a spacer to keep extended. It probably does not serve a purpose other than locking the arm. If locked out then use a block of wood to keep arm raised as you do on a Dewalt. The tension of the blade will keep the arm from raising. Why would it be any different than the other clones of this type saw? Would like to hear from someone who gets to try the saw in a store or actually buys one. Run the saw as normal and pull the pin and see what happens. I am sure they will let you try in HF. Edited September 9 by JTTHECLOCKMAN OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jollyred Posted September 10 Report Share Posted September 10 Why would you buy this clone saw if your DW 788 is still working? Could buy a lot of patterns and wood for the price. Tom OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny Knappen Posted September 10 Report Share Posted September 10 I received a reply to my email. The Pegas 90.300 fits both the Harbor Freight and Grizzley scroll saws. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted Friday at 12:37 PM Author Report Share Posted Friday at 12:37 PM (edited) The person operating the saw in the video BadBob posted is clueless! That said, the pull pin in the back could possibly be replaced by one of these ball springs that are on the EX. Just as long as they are not over tightened. The wear in the other picture was on a friends saw. I TIG welded the groove and put in a new screw. Of course I filed the weld smooth. Worked great. He now has a Pegas. Edited Saturday at 12:57 PM by Rolf OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted Friday at 03:24 PM Report Share Posted Friday at 03:24 PM 2 hours ago, Rolf said: The person operating the saw in the video BadBob posted is clueless! That said, the pull pin in the back could possibly be replaced by one of these ball springs that are on the EX. Just as long as they are not over tightened. The wear in the other picture was on a friends saw. I TIG welded the groove and put in a new screw. Worked great. He now has a Pegas. What is the basic purpose of that pin now that you have some knowledge of this? Does this pin allow the arm to stay raised after cutting? It is not going to kep the arm down when cutting. No need for that. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wichman Posted Friday at 06:57 PM Report Share Posted Friday at 06:57 PM 3 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said: What is the basic purpose of that pin now that you have some knowledge of this? Does this pin allow the arm to stay raised after cutting? It is not going to kep the arm down when cutting. No need for that. I was looking through the manual; on page 9 they address what the pin is for: when changing holes, you gently lift the arm until it clicks, when you want to lower the arm you pull the pin and carefully lower the arm until it clicks in the down position. I have to assume that failure to lock the arm in the down position will affect the blade tension. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted Friday at 08:54 PM Report Share Posted Friday at 08:54 PM 1 hour ago, Wichman said: I was looking through the manual; on page 9 they address what the pin is for: when changing holes, you gently lift the arm until it clicks, when you want to lower the arm you pull the pin and carefully lower the arm until it clicks in the down position. I have to assume that failure to lock the arm in the down position will affect the blade tension. How would that happen These are the same type saw as the Dewalt 788. The action is up front. if the motion of blade going up and down cause movement in the arm then that is a poor design and I highly suggest stay away far away from a saw like that. better options out there. Just my opinion. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted Saturday at 12:54 PM Author Report Share Posted Saturday at 12:54 PM 17 hours ago, Wichman said: I was looking through the manual; on page 9 they address what the pin is for: when changing holes, you gently lift the arm until it clicks, when you want to lower the arm you pull the pin and carefully lower the arm until it clicks in the down position. I have to assume that failure to lock the arm in the down position will affect the blade tension. All the pin on the HF saw does is hold the arm up. Like the add on mechanism that people bought for the Dewalts. To lower the arm you have to reach all the way back and pull the spring loaded pin. A dumb design in my opinion. A lot of extra effort when top feeding. The blade tension keeps the arm down. The EX and other saws that have the ball spring, It is just friction that holds the arm up. No locking or releasing anything. The reason this damaged my friends saw is the one on the left (original) got tired so the prior owner over tightened it until it damaged the arm. The one on the right is the new replacement. As you can see the ball extends further. It doesn't take much to keep the arm up. BadBob, JTTHECLOCKMAN and OCtoolguy 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted Saturday at 01:37 PM Report Share Posted Saturday at 01:37 PM 42 minutes ago, Rolf said: The reason this damaged my friends saw is the one on the left (original) got tired so the prior owner over tightened it until it damaged the arm. That is what I thought when I first saw the first photo. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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