New Harbor freight saw.

[kmmcrafts]

Just got home from my local HF store... No saw was on display yet, however they did have a empty spot on a shelf with the tag for it. I think they were working on getting a display set up but I just showed up to early, LOL. If they weren't busy I might have asked to see one but they was quite busy and I didn't want to bother since I have zero intentions to actually buy one..  

[BadBob]

This looks like the same saw with cosmetic differences.

https://www.amazon.com/Bucktool-Inch-Scrow-Saw-Woodworking/dp/B0CPDT9BMW

The Rikon version doesn't look much different.

Here is another one. This time, pricing is by container. Does anyone need a couple of hundred scroll saws?

https://www.allwin-tools.com/new-arrival-csa-certified-22-inch-variable-speed-scroll-saw-with-1-6a-motor-product/

Yet another one.
 

Either they come from the same factory, or the Chinese are copying each other.

[kmmcrafts]

Seems like some of these versions have better / more images to showcase what they're selling.. Have yet to see one with the saw set for angle cutting.. wonder if they'd give me a saw if I suggested to get some better more detailed photos.. I don't think there is any pictures of the lower blade clamp either.. maybe I've missed some of these images but seems like to me they need to showcase it better so any online shoppers would know better what they're getting. 

[BadBob]

Here is one that shows it tilted.
https://baileigh.com/bss-22-22-scroll-saw

I suspect the people posting the listings know little about scroll saws.

 

 

[kmmcrafts]

19 minutes ago, BadBob said:

Here is one that shows it tilted.
https://baileigh.com/bss-22-22-scroll-saw

I suspect the people posting the listings know little about scroll saws.

 

 

This one is knock off of the Jet saw.. It has the clamp and tension in one step upper clamp like the jet.. I bet it also has the round barrel style lower blade chuck like the Jet too. I've never seen this one before.. I was mostly talking about the HF saw or other brands of the same saw.. as the one you link to is different than those. 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

There is a bunch of photos on the HF site. Not sure what you want to see. Just about all sites like the Buck have videos. It is the same saw. 

Edited September 7, 2024 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[kmmcrafts]

Hmm, maybe they changed up the photos since the other day or they didn't all load on my computer.. now I'm seeing two photos with one being angled to the right and one to the left.. other day there was no photos of the saw tilted for angle cutting.. 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

2 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Hmm, maybe they changed up the photos since the other day or they didn't all load on my computer.. now I'm seeing two photos with one being angled to the right and one to the left.. other day there was no photos of the saw tilted for angle cutting.. 

Under the photos there is 5 more photos but you need to click on link. 

[jollyred]

Looking over the manual for the saw, it says to raise the upper arm, you need to reach to the back of the saw to pull a pin to release the arm.  Once raised the pin needs to be pulled again to lower the arm.  That is a pretty good distance on a 22" saw, and on a typical portrait style project would get pretty tedious.  That alone would put me off this particular saw.  Maybe someone who has actually used the saw could comment on this.  Or maybe the pin could be removed and the arm raised and lowered like the DW788.

Tom

[JJB]

45 minutes ago, jollyred said:

Looking over the manual for the saw, it says to raise the upper arm, you need to reach to the back of the saw to pull a pin to release the arm.  Once raised the pin needs to be pulled again to lower the arm.  That is a pretty good distance on a 22" saw, and on a typical portrait style project would get pretty tedious.  That alone would put me off this particular saw.  Maybe someone who has actually used the saw could comment on this.  Or maybe the pin could be removed and the arm raised and lowered like the DW788.

Tom

Tom, I have used the Rikon version of this saw which is identical in almost every way, including the locking pin. I agree that it is a bit of a reach to unlock the pin every time the arm needs to be lowered. I have the "Lifter" attachment on my Dewalt which I overall think is better. I was seriously considering buying the Rikon when it came to my store, but after thinking about it more and more I think I will just stick with my 788.

[kmmcrafts]

That is the one thing that always turned me off on the Delta clone of the DeWalt.. as it has a pin at the back to release the upper arm so you can lower it back down.. After having a higher end saw that has a spring loaded upper arm I've been spoiled.. I don't even like having to raise and lower it on my Excalibur since I went to the Hawk and Hegner it's sure nice not to have to "lift the arm" out of the way as it does it by itself.. I also don't think I could go back to a saw that you can't really adjust how aggressive it cuts.. 

Dang it.. I was just back to HF yesterday and didn't even think to go see if they had one on the display shelf yet.. 

[JJB]

HF in my area still doesn't have one on display. I'm still leaning toward staying with my current saw, but I want to try out the Bauer just for grins and giggles. I hope they let me install a blade and cut some wood.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Now I would think if you put your creative hats on you can overcome that pin. Lock it out by making a spacer to keep extended. It probably does not serve a purpose other than locking the arm. If locked out then use a block of wood to keep arm raised as you do on a Dewalt.  The tension of the blade will keep the arm from raising. Why would it be any different than the other clones of this type saw? Would like to hear from someone who gets to try the saw in a store or actually buys one. Run the saw as normal and pull the pin and see what happens. I am sure they will let you try in HF. 

Edited September 9, 2024 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[jollyred]

Why would you buy this clone saw if your DW 788 is still working?  Could buy a lot of patterns and wood for the price.

Tom

[Denny Knappen]

I received a reply to my email.  The Pegas 90.300 fits both the Harbor Freight and Grizzley scroll saws.

[Rolf]

The person operating the saw in the video BadBob posted is clueless!

That said, the pull pin in the back could possibly be replaced by one of these ball springs that are on the EX. Just as long as they are not over tightened.  The wear in the other picture was on a friends saw.  I TIG welded the groove and put in a new screw. Of course I filed the weld smooth.  Worked great. He now has a Pegas.

Edited September 14, 2024 by Rolf

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

2 hours ago, Rolf said:

The person operating the saw in the video BadBob posted is clueless!

That said, the pull pin in the back could possibly be replaced by one of these ball springs that are on the EX. Just as long as they are not over tightened.  The wear in the other picture was on a friends saw.  I TIG welded the groove and put in a new screw. Worked great. He now has a Pegas.

What is the basic purpose of that pin now that you have some knowledge of this? Does this pin allow the arm to stay raised after cutting? It is not going to kep the arm down when cutting. No need for that. 

[Wichman]

3 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

What is the basic purpose of that pin now that you have some knowledge of this? Does this pin allow the arm to stay raised after cutting? It is not going to kep the arm down when cutting. No need for that. 

I was looking through the manual; on page 9 they address what the pin is for: when changing holes, you gently lift the arm until it clicks, when you want to lower the arm you pull the pin and carefully lower the arm until it clicks in the down position. I have to assume that failure to lock the arm in the down position will affect the blade tension.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

1 hour ago, Wichman said:

I was looking through the manual; on page 9 they address what the pin is for: when changing holes, you gently lift the arm until it clicks, when you want to lower the arm you pull the pin and carefully lower the arm until it clicks in the down position. I have to assume that failure to lock the arm in the down position will affect the blade tension.

How would that happen These are the same type saw as the Dewalt 788. The action is up front. if the motion of blade going up and down cause movement in the arm then that is a poor design and I highly suggest stay away far away from a saw like that. better options out there. Just my opinion. 

[Rolf]

17 hours ago, Wichman said:

I was looking through the manual; on page 9 they address what the pin is for: when changing holes, you gently lift the arm until it clicks, when you want to lower the arm you pull the pin and carefully lower the arm until it clicks in the down position. I have to assume that failure to lock the arm in the down position will affect the blade tension.

All the pin on the HF saw does is hold the arm up. Like the add on mechanism that people bought for the Dewalts. To lower the arm you have to reach all the way back and pull the spring loaded pin. A dumb design in my opinion. A lot of extra effort when top feeding. The blade tension keeps the arm down.

The EX and other saws that have the ball spring, It is just friction that holds the arm up.  No locking or releasing anything.  The reason this damaged my friends saw is the one on the left (original) got tired so the prior owner over tightened it until it damaged the arm. The one on the right is the new replacement. As you can see the ball extends further.  It doesn't take much to keep the arm up. 

[BadBob]

42 minutes ago, Rolf said:

The reason this damaged my friends saw is the one on the left (original) got tired so the prior owner over tightened it until it damaged the arm.

That is what I thought when I first saw the first photo.

[courtym74]

I picked one up yesterday. My Delta 21 inch is crashing out (again!) and I'm tired of messing with it. Figure if I'm going to get cheap Chinese tools I might as well pay cheap Chinese prices instead of Delta's inflated price. I've cut for about an hour with this and so far it's doing pretty well. It's quieter than the Delta for sure. The on /off switch being behind the speed control is unusual. It is also taking some getting to used to for the lift arm release. The delta I had to push the button when I lifted it, then just pop it and it would drop back down. The Bauer works in reverse. Just push the arm up and it catches then pull the ring and it drops down. With the longer front on the table it puts that ring a ways towards the back. I have long arms and it still can be an issue with a larger piece. I just tied a wire to the ring and mounted it to where it can be pulled from close by.  Feels like a solid saw The body is pressed steel instead of mostly cast but the vibration seems to be minimal. I do have it screwed down to my base mount too. 

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[kmmcrafts]

Congrats on the new saw, I hope you get many hours of trouble free sawing with it. Thank you for sharing the experience so far. Maybe update us again after you get several hours of time on it.

[Keith S]

Would really like to see this saw. Went to two different HF stores, both said they had them in stock, but neither store actually had any. Can’t find an unboxing or any reviews on the internet for it.

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, Keith S said:

Would really like to see this saw. Went to two different HF stores, both said they had them in stock, but neither store actually had any. Can’t find an unboxing or any reviews on the internet for it.

Welcome to the Village!

Do you happen to have any stores around that carry the Rikon brands.. I'm pretty certain that the Rikon is the same exact saw in blue instead of red,.. I was at my local lumber supply shop and they had the Rikon on display.. Looked like a decent starter / entry level saw. I don't think I would like the "locking mechanism" but if just starting back in the day I loved the DeWalt and my biggest complaint on it was having to hold the arm up so unless you get a arm lifter for the DW this is a nice feature with this saw.. just not sure I'd like having to reach back to unlock the arm each time.