Getting ready to do some compound cuts, then on to doing some chess pieces.

[rafairchild2]

Being inspired by the amazing chess sets by @Dave Monk, I have decided to do my own set(s).  Being that I work in an international alliance, I will do a Paris-themed chess set for my first one... Yeah, I know ambitious, but the cuts look easy and I am not one to back down from a challenge, and if I don't screw it up, I might be able to sell it to a French Officer!  Then I can do an Italian-inspired set!  

That being said before my stock of wood blanks comes in, I am going to practice. 

My first order of business was to create a jig to hold my blanks securely. This is version 1, and I am already planning on v2.  I used 3.5" 1/4-20 bolts ... I need to go to 4" to give me a bit more leeway with the spring tensioning and larger blanks if I want. I am also thinking of making the holes for starting inside cuts a bit bigger, and also using self-adhesive 180-grit sandpaper on the inside of the jig to give a better hold on the blank, thus reducing pressure.

With the springs my idea is to simulate the pressure of the hand, but still have fine pressure adjustment.  I have to consider the physics during the cut, as I need to maintain a steady pressure to hold, but not so much that the kerf gets pinched thus binding the blade during the cut. The other part of the spring tensioning is so I do not have to keep adjusting the hand nut as I cut.

I glued up some 'scrap' wood to create some 1.5"x1.5" blanks to practice with.  So I will start with the golfball/clubs, Jesus/Mary-Joseph, then do the ballerina/swan compound cuts.

I most likely will add to this thread as I move through this process, make a v2 of the jig and make a boatload of mistakes!

Edited Thursday at 06:47 PM by rafairchild2

[don in brooklin on]

Like your clamp

When doing compound with a base I have found that by adding a little bit extra to the base and then drilling 2 starter holes and holes to end the cut you don't have to use clamps at all. Cut first side and then turn and cut second side. Once cut straight across the base.  I usually cut with band saw or table saw.

I used to have a clamp but recently have been using small clamps with two blocks.  I have sand paper on two sides to hold even.  I have 2 different size blocks.  1 1/2 x 1 1/2 for most patterns and I have smaller ones that I use to cut small birdies. (2 at a time}.

[rafairchild2]

4 hours ago, don in brooklin on said:

I used to have a clamp but recently have been using small clamps with two blocks.  I have sand paper on two sides to hold even.  I have 2 different size blocks.  1 1/2 x 1 1/2 for most patterns and I have smaller ones that I use to cut small birdies. (2 at a time}.

 

 

The arthritis in my hands and the 'trigger finger(s)' make holding small blanks a bit more problematic, so the jig I think will help with that as I can keep my hands flatter.  I am thinking of adding a few short pegs on the top for my v2 or v3 jig, this way if I do need to use my fingers I can have some little helpers too.

But I like your idea of leaving a little more at the base and cutting off the remains.

What wood do you like to use for your pieces?

[don in brooklin on]

Wood used?  What ever scrap I can find.  

I have used every kind of wood. My preference in doing mini birdhouses is a hardwood.  Done many with cherry, ash and  maple. 

The Sam Keener patterns you are showing I would use a hardwood as the pieces are a little delicate.  I will be interested to see how your glued up pieces work out. 

Keep us posted. 

[barb.j.enders]

I have also used the method @don in brooklin on uses.  A couple of small clamps and boards.  I should add some sandpaper to the boards.

[TAIrving]

In this morning's post, Steve Good has a compound cut pattern and shows him using Bessey style wood clamps. 

[BadBob]

I use two plastic spring clamps. I like them because they don't loosen as I cut, and no tape is required.

[rafairchild2]

Okay.  Here is my very first compound cut using mahogany. (3 x 0.5 glued = 1.5"x1.5"). Not perfect, not bad.

Made an error not doing the inside cut on the handle first so I could not get my blade through.  I was videoing the process, so I skipped it.

I think it took about 20 minutes to cut this piece out (both sides).  Of course with my arthritis, I had trouble getting the blank into the jig.  Once I get 4-inch bolts, that will eliminate that problem.  I will add sandpaper to the jig before my next piece. I will also make my starter notches a little bigger, and in v2 perhaps put them every 3/4" apart. And add some removable pegs that I can use as grips and guides.

I would say, you do have to plan your cuts before laying blade to blank. With things potentially shifting slightly, you can get into trouble otherwise.

You can see everything cut out, and the ball side and bag side lying on the jig.

Edited Friday at 02:38 PM by rafairchild2

[rafairchild2]

OK, version 1.3 (don't ask how I am numbering)  

I added 180 grit sandpaper pieces to each side to minimize any sliding.  I did use self-adhesive sandpaper.

I also drilled a couple of 1/4" holes so I can dry fit a dowel into it.  The idea is to give me another place for my fingers.  I started with two and might add another two.  The dowels pop right out if not needed. And I made the starter notches a little bigger.

I just ordered some 4" bolts, and mulling if I need to go to 3/4" wood or not for the full v2.

So far I like the design on the fly.

 

Edited Friday at 07:35 PM by rafairchild2

[Dave Monk]

I don't use a jig at all. I put hot glue on both sides to hold it together after I cut my first side. Works good for me. 

[rafairchild2]

11 hours ago, Dave Monk said:

I don't use a jig at all. I put hot glue on both sides to hold it together after I cut my first side. Works good for me. 

That hot glue idea is a pretty cool idea (pun intended).  But I have arthritis (and trigger fingers) in the hands and prefer a little wider grip and the ability to keep my hands flatter as I manipulate the piece.

Do you put hot glue all over it or just tac it?  Curious to see a photo of what you do.

Edited Saturday at 01:59 PM by rafairchild2

[rafairchild2]

@Dave Monk @BadBob @don in brooklin on @barb.j.enders -

Here is my first test chess piece. It took just under an hour...

I started with a #5 FD UR blade, but after that broke... plus it was slow going... I went up to a #7 and it worked a lot better. I think I could get away with a #9 on some of the easier pieces, but overall I am pleased with my first attempt.  Still, a lot to master. A few more practice pieces to go.

I took Don's tip and left some wood at the bottom, and that was the final cut.  I did not have my table saw set up, so I did it on the scroll. And this was a 3x0.50 glued-up aspen.  It worked well.  Not sure how much the gorilla glue affects the cut though, granted it is 2 thin layers, but I would think it has a similar effect like cutting plywood.

One question.  After you do your inside cuts, do you trap those, or do you clear them before doing the perimeter cut?  It was a bit hairy getting the pieces out after I completed all the cuts.  I left everything trapped.

PS: Now I wait for my 'real' 1.5x1.5 stock to come in so I can start on a set for real.

 

 

[don in brooklin on]

I usually clear them. Sometimes it is difficult if you have corners not perfect. Sometimes you have to cut the again. I have even had to cut in to pieces as they would not drop out.

I just did a standing bird house this way and I used the scroll saw and it was easier. I touched up on drum sander to make sure square. 

Look forward to the completed project as test piece looks great

 

[rafairchild2]

35 minutes ago, don in brooklin on said:

Look forward to the completed project as test piece looks great

 

Thanks Don.  I actually did a live YT stream this AM of me doing the test Bishop piece.  All the fun stuff too! Struggling with the $5 until it breaks, to getting all the small pieces ou to the final reveal.