Hudson River Rick Posted November 2 Report Share Posted November 2 Saturday morning, thankfully, my saw is working again. As it turns out, I didn't need any parts at all, the blade holder(#41D) on the drawing, was bound up , and had the spring locked at full compression. I sprayed some dry lube on it and after a while, I finally got it to budge. It took more effort than I would have expected, to free up the holder, but where would we be without effort. This has been an awful learning experience, but I hope it's over. Now onto the 38 Christmas ornaments for our families. Thanks for the help. Rick JTTHECLOCKMAN, OCtoolguy, ChelCass and 3 others 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted November 2 Report Share Posted November 2 Glad you got it all back up and running without need for taking it apart etc. Several years ago my saw had started working harder than it should and the spray lube really fixed it and made it work so smoothly that now I just spray the moving parts every month or so.. amazing how much smoother things work when they're slick with some spray lube. As I said in your other post.. I feel like Pegas should mention this in their manuals etc.. as not everyone is mechanical incline and wouldn't know that it's working harder than it should until they break the thing or make the spring work much harder making it weaker.. I've got almost 600 hours on my saw and have never replaced any parts in the chucks.. not even the thumb screws.. I spray the threads of the screws every now and then too.. Just gotta be careful not to get any on the tips where they pinch the blade and when you see how smooth the threads work you get way more tightening power so need to be careful not to over tighten them.. when the threads are stiff and gritty feeling it takes more clamping power to tighten them to the same torque and it's only because of the threads binding instead of working slick and smoothly. Some people say I over maintain but I just rather have my stuff working smoothly and not broke down.. Scrappile and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted November 2 Report Share Posted November 2 Glad you got it worked. I disagree with the Awful learning experience, comment the fact that you learned, you fixed and it will probably never happen again, because know how prevent it in the future, I would say it was a great learning experience. I bet even further the fact that you posted it here you taught a whole lot of Pegas clamp owners (that just jumped up a gabbed their lube and went at it) how to prevent it also. barb.j.enders and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hudson River Rick Posted November 2 Author Report Share Posted November 2 @Scrappile Thanks for thye reassuring words. It took me a while, but I finally traced the problem to the clamping section, and found the blade holder bound up. I'm not mechanically inclined, but I usually can find a problem with something, just before I toss it out. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hudson River Rick Posted November 2 Author Report Share Posted November 2 @kevin I absolutley agree with you abot GROBET, I sent an e-mail asking for some guidance and I didn't get any return. Denny tried to guide me through some trouble shooting, but after I spent a little more time, I realized that the spring was under compression. I thought I was going to have to order a new clamping head, but after some GENTILE persuasion, the head move slightly and then I realized what the problem was. So far, so good, the saw(EX21), with the PEGAS clamps, is working and I can get the Christmas cards done for my wife so she can start her part of the project. Thnks for your help with the pictures. Rick OCtoolguy and kmmcrafts 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted November 3 Report Share Posted November 3 I've looked at all the pics included in your original post but don't understand what part was bound up. You reference a number in the diagram but there was no diagram included. Can you maybe post something. I have two of these clamps and would like to know what part you had a problem with. Thanks for all your info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rafairchild2 Posted November 3 Report Share Posted November 3 10 hours ago, kmmcrafts said: Several years ago my saw had started working harder than it should and the spray lube really fixed it and made it work so smoothly that now I just spray the moving parts every month or so.. Which points are you recommending lubing? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted November 3 Report Share Posted November 3 (edited) 6 hours ago, rafairchild2 said: Which points are you recommending lubing? I spray where the pin goes through the rod up by the lever marked in black on the photo and also spray in the spring area circled in the blue color. Also the rod part up above where the spring is as that rod goes through a small hole right there. The sliding part that moves up and down is down at its lowest point when the tension is released so sometimes I'll put just a drop of spray on each side just above that sliding part and work the lever back and forth. Also in the other photo where you see the side of the lever I hit that metal bushing on each side. You'll be amazed at how much smoother the tensioning lever works after doing this. A little on the threads of the thumb screws makes them work so smooth too.. just be careful not to get it on the clamping part of the thumb screw or you may never get a blade to hold again, LOL. Pull the end caps ( swivels ) out of the end of the thumb screws and use some dielectric grease just a very tiny wipe onto the rubber O-ring to keep the swivel spinning nicely. Do not use a petroleum type on it like Vaseline as it'll make the O-ring swell eventually and cause it to not swivel at all.. The tough part is you only need just a drop on all of this but it's hard not to get spray all over.. I usually will cover the table with paper towels.. and also have one in hand. Really would work best if you could get some spray on a Q-tip or small brush to get it where you need it without getting it all over.. Trust me it's not fun if you get the stuff on the thumb screws etc.. LOL.. But I always like the challenge so I just spray it but as I said.. maybe spray a little on a Q-tip would be much smarter. I like to use the PB Blaster Garage Door dry spray lube.. it last a long time working nice and smooth. https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/369279-blaster-garage-door-lubricant.html?blaintm_source=google&blaintm_medium=lia&setstore=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvpy5BhDTARIsAHSilyn1PMwgvSyWCyovpNO4IzrcynhqU7wAyMjSvEbt2BTn95rKU3jwvEkaAk4BEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Edited November 3 by kmmcrafts OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rafairchild2 Posted November 3 Report Share Posted November 3 29 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said: I spray where the pin goes through the r.... Pity you were not detailed in where you should spray Thanks for the know how.... bravo. kmmcrafts and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hudson River Rick Posted November 3 Author Report Share Posted November 3 @OCtoolguy Ray, I have a schematic drawing that I somehow found on the internet, I will try to get this posted sometime today. I tied twice to get it copied to this response, but I may as wel ave tried to fly an F-14. I don't have any idea on how to do it, but my wife will be home shortly, and believe me, she is the BRAINS of the house. Rick OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hudson River Rick Posted November 3 Author Report Share Posted November 3 @OCtoolguy Hey Ray, sorry, we aren't having any luck in posting that drawing. If you go to the GROBET site, that is where I got the image, but it was truly just luck. As we all know, "EVEN A BLIND SQUIRREL GETS A NUT ONCE IN A WHILE" Rick OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted November 3 Report Share Posted November 3 16 minutes ago, Hudson River Rick said: @OCtoolguy Hey Ray, sorry, we aren't having any luck in posting that drawing. If you go to the GROBET site, that is where I got the image, but it was truly just luck. As we all know, "EVEN A BLIND SQUIRREL GETS A NUT ONCE IN A WHILE" Rick Thanks, I'll just have to figure it out. It's not rocket science. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted November 3 Report Share Posted November 3 (edited) 27 minutes ago, Hudson River Rick said: @OCtoolguy Hey Ray, sorry, we aren't having any luck in posting that drawing. If you go to the GROBET site, that is where I got the image, but it was truly just luck. As we all know, "EVEN A BLIND SQUIRREL GETS A NUT ONCE IN A WHILE" Rick 20 hours ago, OCtoolguy said: I've looked at all the pics included in your original post but don't understand what part was bound up. You reference a number in the diagram but there was no diagram included. Can you maybe post something. I have two of these clamps and would like to know what part you had a problem with. Thanks for all your info. 41D is the part that I call the sliding part, LOL.. I think where it actually binds up at is where the rod goes through the hole in the upper part of the blade chuck.. just above where the spring is. At least that seemed to be where mine did it years ago and that's when I learned to start using the dry spray lube. Edit to add link to manual.. I had a hard time finding the manual PDF.. Every time I went to the link in the Grobet website it came up with 404 not found or something like that.. https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/library/manuals/pegas/158541 Pegas 21in Scroll Saw.pdf Edited November 3 by kmmcrafts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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