Scroll saw maintenance

[jerry walters]

I followed Rick @Hudson River Rick post on the tension spring and what to do with it.  Also saw Kevin's @kmmcrafts remarks for maintaining our scroll saws.  I have a Pegas scroll saw for almost 3 years now and have never done any maintenance to it other than keeping it clean.  Owners manual has nothing on maintenance.  My question what can we do to keep our machines running smoothly?  You say to spray some kind of lubricant on moving parts.  I have silicone spray and also a dry lubricant.  Which is best to use?  Also, my biggest question is, what do you spray since most parts are covered.  I grew up on a farm and my dad was a big proponet on keeping things librucated with either oil or grease, but that was easy to do because everyting was visible.  Not much is visible on my scroll saw and I am one that is afraid to tear things down.  Maybe point out where to spray lubricant.  I understand on the thumb screst just putting it on the threads and not the tips.  I would assume to spary a litten on paper towel then applying the spray on the paper towel.  Other than that, I am puzzled what to do.

Thanks, Jerry

[dgman]

Jerry, never use silicone on woodworking machines. Silicone can interfere with finishes. It can cause fisheyes in your finish.

[rash_powder]

No graphite, dry or wet, on any aluminum parts ever.  Graphite will galvanically react to the aluminum and eat it away.  Also, don't clean aluminum with Simple Green; again, it will eat it away.  

Keep the bearings and bushings properly lubed; everything clean of dust, grease, etc.  Scrollsaws are low maintenance in my experience.  

The Craftsman saw I have has motor brushes so check them every so often and replace when needed.  My Hegner really only has arm bushings to worry about.

If you have maintained farm equipment, scrollsaws will be a breeze.  

[kmmcrafts]

10 hours ago, rash_powder said:

No graphite, dry or wet, on any aluminum parts ever.  Graphite will galvanically react to the aluminum and eat it away.  Also, don't clean aluminum with Simple Green; again, it will eat it away.  

Keep the bearings and bushings properly lubed; everything clean of dust, grease, etc.  Scrollsaws are low maintenance in my experience.  

The Craftsman saw I have has motor brushes so check them every so often and replace when needed.  My Hegner really only has arm bushings to worry about.

If you have maintained farm equipment, scrollsaws will be a breeze.  

Didn't know these things about on aluminum.. Not sure what the spray I use has in it but it has worked real well for me for the last 7 years so must not be a problem.. Anyway this is good info to know. 

[kmmcrafts]

I just posted this on another thread but I'll put it here as well since this one might get better search results in the future.

I spray where the pin goes through the rod up by the lever marked in black on the photo and also spray in the spring area circled in the blue color. Also the rod part up above where the spring is as that rod goes through a small hole right there. The sliding part that moves up and down is down at its lowest point when the tension is released so sometimes I'll put just a drop of spray on each side just above that sliding part and work the lever back and forth. Also in the other photo where you see the side of the lever I hit that metal bushing on each side. You'll be amazed at how much smoother the tensioning lever works after doing this. A little on the threads of the thumb screws makes them work so smooth too.. just be careful not to get it on the clamping part of the thumb screw or you may never get a blade to hold again, LOL. Pull the end caps ( swivels ) out of the end of the thumb screws and use some dielectric grease just a very tiny wipe onto the rubber O-ring to keep the swivel spinning nicely. Do not use a petroleum type on it like Vaseline as it'll make the O-ring swell eventually and cause it to not swivel at all..    

The tough part is you only need just a drop on all of this but it's hard not to get spray all over.. I usually will cover the table with paper towels.. and also have one in hand. Really would work best if you could get some spray on a Q-tip or small brush to get it where you need it without getting it all over.. Trust me it's not fun if you get the stuff on the thumb screws etc.. LOL.. But I always like the challenge so I just spray it but as I said.. maybe spray a little on a Q-tip would be much smarter. 

I like to use the PB Blaster Garage Door dry spray lube.. it last a long time working nice and smooth. https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/369279-blaster-garage-door-lubricant.html?blaintm_source=google&blaintm_medium=lia&setstore=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvpy5BhDTARIsAHSilyn1PMwgvSyWCyovpNO4IzrcynhqU7wAyMjSvEbt2BTn95rKU3jwvEkaAk4BEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

 

[Wichman]

I found a source for micro fine powdered Teflon, a piano maintenance site. They sell a 1 oz container for a reasonable price. It's been years since I bought my last supply.

https://www.howardpianoindustries.com/micro-fine-ptfe-powder/

I use an artist brush to apply the power, a little goes a long way. On my Hegner I used it on the tension lever cam, the area where the blade holders rock , the back areas that rock and a light dusting above the bearing (so that oil carries some into the bearings).

 

My one word of caution is to never use any "detergent" oil, anything that says it will clean as it lubes. Detergent oils will absorb moisture from the air and become gummy, necessitating reapplying more oil, ad nauseum. 

[OCtoolguy]

I'm old-fashioned. I still use a light oil like 3n1 but my favorite is still Howes. I use it very sparingly though. I used synthetic grease on all the many needle bearings.

[Wichman]

This is the oil I use.

https://www.amazon.com/Supco-SUPCO-MO98-SPOUT-OILER/dp/B001UGQC2I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_mod_primary_new?crid=3EFI5AD2MXHX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3aZErExeIozLC8VVBJKY43k-iyqEwumvBAIxpHiZvrsgfZR57s7a18CR4UYE5-r27vCAtqHaRoe6q1BbqIQUmXweDpL7LxOrXtiQyQaRD0KzMCl2EIs9eDMsc-A3WR0LcB1UqiCBYI76hD7rQXmeN1-mO7k6vPwsMsuV5mjay4kZX9_brdop8SJj7YSYZxG4JUyLl3InsSQUuuwpAIJ4Rg.fdB8Am-eGi2nlwja_2ff9hSUifwepl4a7h9WzKnVEB8&dib_tag=se&keywords=zoom+spout+oiler+turbine+oil+norvey&qid=1730659412&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=norvey+zoom+spout+oiler%2Caps%2C312&sr=8-1

[rash_powder]

13 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Didn't know these things about on aluminum.. Not sure what the spray I use has in it but it has worked real well for me for the last 7 years so must not be a problem.. Anyway this is good info to know. 

I didn't either until years ago on a motorcycle forum.  One of the members was an aircraft mechanic and said that the FAA would shut an airport down for having Simple Green anywhere on site due to the corrosive nature and I think the graphite came up in the same post; or maybe from somewhere else.  Its been a hot minute since it went into my head.  

Anyway, the relevance was that since motorcycles are primarily made from aluminum anymore, don't use the stuff.  There's too much else to worry about when riding than structural failures.  

[Juan Rodriguez]

Is it safe to use WD 40 as a lubricant?

[Jim McDonald]

17 minutes ago, Juan Rodriguez said:

Is it safe to use WD 40 as a lubricant?

WD40 is not a lubricant per se. It does feel oily, but it is not marketed or intended as a true lubricant (says the guy who liberally sprays his garden tools with the stuff).

There are lots of true lubes available in almost any viscosity. 

[OCtoolguy]

WD40 is very corrosive. Never use it on firearms. Spray a pad of 4 0 steel wool and lay it outside. It will disappear.

[Norm Fengstad]

thanks for all the info. I was under the assumption that I knew all about lubricants, I guess we all can learn and change what we thought we knew

[Juan Rodriguez]

On 11/3/2024 at 11:16 AM, OCtoolguy said:

I'm old-fashioned. I still use a light oil like 3n1 but my favorite is still Howes. I use it very sparingly though. I used synthetic grease on all the many needle bearings.

Thanks , I just ordered some.