Update on the Bauer 22 inch from HF

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

If that be the case I feel sorry for owners of these type saws. To have to take apart a saw to grease bearings is beyond my comprehension. I guess that is why the top of the line saws are worth more. In all my years and many hours on my RBI saws I have never had to grease bearings. The only parts I replaced was that front tension lever because the cam wears down but very easy fix. The other thing is that plastic blade holder clip under the table. I replaced with a piece of spring steel. Well good luck to all with these type saws.

Edited November 13 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[rjweb]

Well when buying a saw, you have to buy the best you can afford with your funds, not everyone can buy top of the line, but this way they can enjoy the hobby, RJ

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

1 hour ago, rjweb said:

Well when buying a saw, you have to buy the best you can afford with your funds, not everyone can buy top of the line, but this way they can enjoy the hobby, RJ

But and this is a big BUT the used market opens more possibilities than what people realize. We all want new but that does not mean best for the budget. Just saying. Everyone has to make their own choices for sure. But look with your eyes wide open. 

[kmmcrafts]

2 hours ago, rjweb said:

Well when buying a saw, you have to buy the best you can afford with your funds, not everyone can buy top of the line, but this way they can enjoy the hobby, RJ

I do agree, not everyone needs a higher end saw either.. most entree level or better saws will last a good amount of time for I'd say the majority of scrollers.. and as JT pointed out.. the used market usually has some pretty good buys on high end saws.. 

Back when I first got into scroll sawing I didn't even have a saw or the money for one.. so I just bought a pack of blades and used my fingers to hold each end of the blade.. made enough products to sell to buy a actual scroll saw with a motor on it.. 

This is just my scroll saw version of having to walk to school in 3 ft of snow uphill both ways barefoot and without a coat when I was a kid...  

[rjweb]

Kevin, that's too funny, RJ

[OCtoolguy]

14 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

I do agree, not everyone needs a higher end saw either.. most entree level or better saws will last a good amount of time for I'd say the majority of scrollers.. and as JT pointed out.. the used market usually has some pretty good buys on high end saws.. 

Back when I first got into scroll sawing I didn't even have a saw or the money for one.. so I just bought a pack of blades and used my fingers to hold each end of the blade.. made enough products to sell to buy a actual scroll saw with a motor on it.. 

This is just my scroll saw version of having to walk to school in 3 ft of snow uphill both ways barefoot and without a coat when I was a kid...  

You almost had me Kevin.

[timelett]

I use to watch a show with dad that every thing was made with hand tools, he had a scroll saw that was driven by the feet, like the sewing machine my mom had when I was 6.

[timelett]

On 11/11/2024 at 8:47 PM, kmmcrafts said:

I just went to the website and added it to my cart and then hitting the checkout button screen it gives me the option of 1 year for 49.99 or two years for 59.99.. For someone like me that scrolls a lot and burns through a DeWalt in one to one and a half years that might be a good deal since I can't even source the bearings to rebuild one that cheap.. I believe it cost me around $180 way back in 2014 which was the last time I rebuilt the Dewalt I had and then I sold it in 2017. The EX-21 parts cost me nearly $200 or maybe a little more than $200 back in 2020 when I rebuilt that.. I have about 550 hours run time on the hour meter on the EX-21 and have rebuilt it twice now.. and it's getting there for a third time.. Oddly enough.. 550 hours on the new Hawk I bought.. still kickin up dust like it was new.. no parts has been needed yet. 

I purchased the warranty because a lot of things I cut are 1/2 in. and at a 30deg. angle, I noticed the motor on the hawk was getting hot after cutting a couple of rings, no issues with the motor on the Bauer.

I figured after two years I should have enough bowls cut.

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, timelett said:

I purchased the warranty because a lot of things I cut are 1/2 in. and at a 30deg. angle, I noticed the motor on the hawk was getting hot after cutting a couple of rings, no issues with the motor on the Bauer.

I figured after two years I should have enough bowls cut.

If you don't mind my asking, how fast are you running the Hawk when cutting when the motor gets hot? I believe this is the saw I sold you? I mainly cut puzzles from 3/4" wood with that saw.. I never had any issue with the motor getting hot.. that said I never purposely checked it either. It does have the motor on it that had issue with burning up due to something with the Variable speed controller if memory serves me correct. 

I did a couple times have issue with the variable speed jumping around but I solved it by taking the cover off and blowing out the dust.. Always blew the dust out of the motor vents too as they get quite a lot of dust in the motor fan. If you look on the left side of the saw you can see the motor is big and the air vents on the end cap of the motor.. Maybe blow some air in there and around the motor.. IF you're running it really slow then maybe it's not creating enough air flow? I've always ran it at almost full speed.. But again, that was a problematic motor on those saws so maybe it's just coming to the end of its life.. I hope not.. Loved that saw and kind always kicked myself for selling after it was gone, LOL 

[timelett]

8 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

If you don't mind my asking, how fast are you running the Hawk when cutting when the motor gets hot? I believe this is the saw I sold you? I mainly cut puzzles from 3/4" wood with that saw.. I never had any issue with the motor getting hot.. that said I never purposely checked it either. It does have the motor on it that had issue with burning up due to something with the Variable speed controller if memory serves me correct. 

I did a couple times have issue with the variable speed jumping around but I solved it by taking the cover off and blowing out the dust.. Always blew the dust out of the motor vents too as they get quite a lot of dust in the motor fan. If you look on the left side of the saw you can see the motor is big and the air vents on the end cap of the motor.. Maybe blow some air in there and around the motor.. IF you're running it really slow then maybe it's not creating enough air flow? I've always ran it at almost full speed.. But again, that was a problematic motor on those saws so maybe it's just coming to the end of its life.. I hope not.. Loved that saw and kind always kicked myself for selling after it was gone, LOL 

Maybe it's the speed I cut and the thickness of the wood plus the angle all together, I still think the hawlk is  great to use for cutting patterns,I purchased the other saw mainly because I like to make the bowls. I will be shur to clean out the motor and speed pod on the next pattern.

I also want to give the new saw a good deal of use at least for the next few months.

 

[Wichman]

13 hours ago, timelett said:

I purchased the warranty because a lot of things I cut are 1/2 in. and at a 30deg. angle, I noticed the motor on the hawk was getting hot after cutting a couple of rings, no issues with the motor on the Bauer.

I figured after two years I should have enough bowls cut.

You say that the motor was "hot", what do you mean? I had to look up what was too hot for bearings for motors at work, according to the information I could find, the upper limit was 140* F. I used a non-contact thermometer to read the temps. One machine had a single bearing that was hotter than any of the others, it ran at 95*, the rest ran at 85*. I kept track of the temps during the weekly maintenance. I used the powdered Teflon on that bearing and got a 5* drop in the temp.

[Hawk]

On 11/13/2024 at 10:24 AM, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

I watched that video and have to say I do not know what speed he was cutting at but that saw sounded clunky

I can tell you that mine sounds nothing like that, quite the opposite, mine is quite quiet and a whole lot smoother than his. I don't know why he has the feet upside down, maybe to bolt it to the stand but really you don't need that. Mine sits on the bench and like I said, vibration free.

 

On 11/13/2024 at 11:20 AM, kmmcrafts said:

I'd say around 250 - 300 ish hours you're going to start getting the bearing knocks.

Interesting, I'll try to keep track, but mine is set up for mostly fret work on 1/8 inch stock. But I've also upgraded the blade holders to the Pegas, that helped quite a bit also.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Have you or anyone else looked on the saw to see where it was made? Should say somewhere on the saw. Is it Tawain or China? 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

On 11/16/2024 at 9:40 PM, Hawk said:

I can tell you that mine sounds nothing like that, quite the opposite, mine is quite quiet and a whole lot smoother than his. I don't know why he has the feet upside down, maybe to bolt it to the stand but really you don't need that. Mine sits on the bench and like I said, vibration free.

 

Interesting, I'll try to keep track, but mine is set up for mostly fret work on 1/8 inch stock. But I've also upgraded the blade holders to the Pegas, that helped quite a bit also.

This is unbelievable. So you tell me if you scrolled on the saw for 5 hours a day you get 60 days of sawing./?  2 months and you are rebuilding a saw? Wow is all I can say. Just wow. 

[kmmcrafts]

9 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

This is unbelievable. So you tell me if you scrolled on the saw for 5 hours a day you get 60 days of sawing./?  2 months and you are rebuilding a saw? Wow is all I can say. Just wow. 

Basically yes, that's about what I get from these saws.. Though I'm using them more for commercial use.. and even then it's really quite tough to get 5 hours on a saw in one day..actually kinda tough to get 5-7 hours on a saw in a week.  too many things you do that doesn't reflect actual sawing.. the hour meters are hooked up to the saw foot switch so this is actual saw runtime not just setting at the saw time.. You'd be amazed at how much saw time and shop time are different.. You spend a lot of time prepping projects and sanding, drilling,  finishing etc. 

I wish I could remember what project it was I did that took me like 10 hours to cut but the saw time was only 1.5 hours.. I think it was this leopard but I'm not certain now.. This was a long time ago that I timed this out like that.. I don't usually time how long a project takes to cut.. rarely pay any attention to the hour meter honestly.. When I first put them on yes I did do some comparing times.. I was amazed that even though I was in the shop all week that I only had really put like 3 hours on the saws hour meter all week, LOL. It's a huge difference in times.. and now that I know this I always do a bit of a inside giggle when someone post that they saw 8 hours a day and their saw last 2-3 years.. I'll bet the saw is around that 250-300 ish hour mark.. not whatever it would be if it were actually 8 hours a day for 2-3 years, that'd be a lot of hours.. even for a Hawk in my mind.

 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

3 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Basically yes, that's about what I get from these saws.. Though I'm using them more for commercial use.. and even then it's really quite tough to get 5 hours on a saw in one day..actually kinda tough to get 5-7 hours on a saw in a week.  too many things you do that doesn't reflect actual sawing.. the hour meters are hooked up to the saw foot switch so this is actual saw runtime not just setting at the saw time.. You'd be amazed at how much saw time and shop time are different.. You spend a lot of time prepping projects and sanding, drilling,  finishing etc. 

I wish I could remember what project it was I did that took me like 10 hours to cut but the saw time was only 1.5 hours.. I think it was this leopard but I'm not certain now.. This was a long time ago that I timed this out like that.. I don't usually time how long a project takes to cut.. rarely pay any attention to the hour meter honestly.. When I first put them on yes I did do some comparing times.. I was amazed that even though I was in the shop all week that I only had really put like 3 hours on the saws hour meter all week, LOL. It's a huge difference in times.. and now that I know this I always do a bit of a inside giggle when someone post that they saw 8 hours a day and their saw last 2-3 years.. I'll bet the saw is around that 250-300 ish hour mark.. not whatever it would be if it were actually 8 hours a day for 2-3 years, that'd be a lot of hours.. even for a Hawk in my mind.

 

Maybe so but still if you want to say out of those 5 hours your saw runs 3 hours or even 2 hours. Heck if you want to say an hour, not even a years worth of saw time.  That is 150 days out of the year. Not even a half year of saw time.  And people are clamoring over these type saws? I would not touch with a 10 foot pole if I were planning on doing production work.  That is within your numbers. I can honestly say when I was in production mode I would scroll for a good 6 to 7 hours a day. I prep alot of work ahead of time and then just scroll. It was a production line type set up. I had to to keep up. Alot depends on the type of cutting too. if you are doing alot of intricate fret work, sure the saw time is down because all the stopping and starting but that too adds to heavy wear on those so called delicate bushings and the motor. Now if you do puzzles then saw time is greatly increased because less stop time. Same thing with larger less fret work projects. You can break it down anyway you want but if spending $500 on a saw it better last longer than 2 years or you better get warranty and use it. Not everyone has the ability to take saws apart. Man this is sort of an eye opener and would lean more and more toward a quality highend saw if you have intentions of going into production. If doing occasional cutting, a few days a week and maybe seasonal then saws  like this are fine. Just something to think about when choosing a saw. Really any tool with a motor needs this thought process. I am so glad I bought RBI saws. 

I bet when I was cutting these puzzles the saw ran a true 6 hours a day. Slower fine cutting and no fret work. Prepped 50 or so at a time. No stack cutting with these. I probably could have worn a saw out just cutting all these out. 

 

Edited November 18 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[kmmcrafts]

Well that is why I always try to push folks to look for a good used high end saw for the same or less money.. there is only about 4-6 bearings in a hawk or Hegner.. and pretty much a standard sized ones that can be had at a local hardware type store.. and then there is like 20 of them on a parallel link arm saw like the Excalibur and those style of saws.. and those are oddball sized that for me anyway, I've had to special order them.. Lot's more pivot points and a tiny bit of slop in each pivot point creates a lot of slop out at the blade end.. 

This is why I have 2 Hawks a Hegner and a Excalibur.. the EX does have a few reason why I keep it around because of the style of cutting they give.. and that the saw tilts rather than the table for angle cutting. What limited projects I do cut on the EX I still wear it out about every 2-3 years.. 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

1 hour ago, kmmcrafts said:

Well that is why I always try to push folks to look for a good used high end saw for the same or less money.. there is only about 4-6 bearings in a hawk or Hegner.. and pretty much a standard sized ones that can be had at a local hardware type store.. and then there is like 20 of them on a parallel link arm saw like the Excalibur and those style of saws.. and those are oddball sized that for me anyway, I've had to special order them.. Lot's more pivot points and a tiny bit of slop in each pivot point creates a lot of slop out at the blade end.. 

This is why I have 2 Hawks a Hegner and a Excalibur.. the EX does have a few reason why I keep it around because of the style of cutting they give.. and that the saw tilts rather than the table for angle cutting. What limited projects I do cut on the EX I still wear it out about every 2-3 years.. 

I am the same way when people ask but then I get the pushback well not everyone can afford a top of the line saw. Well buy saws like this and then you are spending time rebuilding and if you can not then money on someone who can. Today there are so many highend saws showing up in the market pages because I believe scrollsawing is just hitting a flat spot and will it ever jump again who knows. But these points should be made known. The numbers are more staggering if that person really wants to get into or at least give it a try to make some cash and give scrolling a legit try. Oh well to each their own as Ray would say.  Now I am seeing why and I can not remember his name because I do not see him here often any more. (the guy who did all the animal puzzles) he went through so many Dewalt saws and was mind blowing. 

[Michael B.]

On 11/16/2024 at 8:40 PM, Hawk said:

I can tell you that mine sounds nothing like that, quite the opposite, mine is quite quiet and a whole lot smoother than his. I don't know why he has the feet upside down, maybe to bolt it to the stand but really you don't need that. Mine sits on the bench and like I said, vibration free.

Same here. My new Bauer is really, really smooth. I have it bolted to an HF universal stand and there is almost no vibration and it cuts really well. I will probably never put on nearly the amount of hours scrolling that some of you do/will, but for the money this is a gem for me so far. I'm really happy with it.

[kmmcrafts]

4 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

I am the same way when people ask but then I get the pushback well not everyone can afford a top of the line saw. Well buy saws like this and then you are spending time rebuilding and if you can not then money on someone who can. Today there are so many highend saws showing up in the market pages because I believe scrollsawing is just hitting a flat spot and will it ever jump again who knows. But these points should be made known. The numbers are more staggering if that person really wants to get into or at least give it a try to make some cash and give scrolling a legit try. Oh well to each their own as Ray would say.  Now I am seeing why and I can not remember his name because I do not see him here often any more. (the guy who did all the animal puzzles) he went through so many Dewalt saws and was mind blowing. 

Yeah that was Scott ( Iggy).. and yes he just bought a new saw every year.. I like the parallel link arm saws for many projects I do so I kind of understand why he runs the DeWalts like he does.. The parts to rebuild one ( if replacing all the bearings ) is about half the cost of another saw.. so I get why he does it.. as there is no real down time other than removing one off the stand and putting the new one on the stand. Parallel link saws cut a little more aggressive so cutting the puzzles goes a bit quicker, as many as he sells a year those few minutes add up in time I suppose. I've timed myself cutting the same project on both the Hawk and the Excalibur and it's not much difference maybe a couple minutes.. The EX is a little faster.. but harder to do more precise and intricate stuff. It'd be a tough call as to what saw I'd keep if I was just doing it for hobby fun.. as I like them both for various things so having both is what I do.. and I'll probably always have both style saws. My next one might be that Grizzly.. or the Jet when they run a sale it's not much more than the DeWalt or Grizzly. I have a hard time seeing a Pegas and some of those others being $1000 when others come out of the same factory and are much less money. Pegas do have better clamps but they aren't worth $300+ for the saw just for the clamps when I can buy just the clamps for any of these saws.  

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

3 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Yeah that was Scott ( Iggy).. and yes he just bought a new saw every year.. I like the parallel link arm saws for many projects I do so I kind of understand why he runs the DeWalts like he does.. The parts to rebuild one ( if replacing all the bearings ) is about half the cost of another saw.. so I get why he does it.. as there is no real down time other than removing one off the stand and putting the new one on the stand. Parallel link saws cut a little more aggressive so cutting the puzzles goes a bit quicker, as many as he sells a year those few minutes add up in time I suppose. I've timed myself cutting the same project on both the Hawk and the Excalibur and it's not much difference maybe a couple minutes.. The EX is a little faster.. but harder to do more precise and intricate stuff. It'd be a tough call as to what saw I'd keep if I was just doing it for hobby fun.. as I like them both for various things so having both is what I do.. and I'll probably always have both style saws. My next one might be that Grizzly.. or the Jet when they run a sale it's not much more than the DeWalt or Grizzly. I have a hard time seeing a Pegas and some of those others being $1000 when others come out of the same factory and are much less money. Pegas do have better clamps but they aren't worth $300+ for the saw just for the clamps when I can buy just the clamps for any of these saws.  

Grizzly is running a sale now. I thought I saw an ad somewhere. Yea it was you who brought it up as I looked back. https://www.grizzly.com/holiday-sale/2024/scroll-saws

  Scott (Iggy) that is him. Have not seen him here. Hope he is doing well. 

I have to go some place Wed. this week and I will be passing a HF. I think I will stop in and take a look at the scrollsaw. 

Edited November 19 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[timelett]

6 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

Grizzly is running a sale now. I thought I saw an ad somewhere. Yea it was you who brought it up as I looked back. https://www.grizzly.com/holiday-sale/2024/scroll-saws

  Scott (Iggy) that is him. Have not seen him here. Hope he is doing well. 

I have to go some place Wed. this week and I will be passing a HF. I think I will stop in and take a look at the scrollsaw. 

The store i was in didn't have one on display, some of the stores don't have room to display all machines. 

[timelett]

19 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Basically yes, that's about what I get from these saws.. Though I'm using them more for commercial use.. and even then it's really quite tough to get 5 hours on a saw in one day..actually kinda tough to get 5-7 hours on a saw in a week.  too many things you do that doesn't reflect actual sawing.. the hour meters are hooked up to the saw foot switch so this is actual saw runtime not just setting at the saw time.. You'd be amazed at how much saw time and shop time are different.. You spend a lot of time prepping projects and sanding, drilling,  finishing etc. 

I wish I could remember what project it was I did that took me like 10 hours to cut but the saw time was only 1.5 hours.. I think it was this leopard but I'm not certain now.. This was a long time ago that I timed this out like that.. I don't usually time how long a project takes to cut.. rarely pay any attention to the hour meter honestly.. When I first put them on yes I did do some comparing times.. I was amazed that even though I was in the shop all week that I only had really put like 3 hours on the saws hour meter all week, LOL. It's a huge difference in times.. and now that I know this I always do a bit of a inside giggle when someone post that they saw 8 hours a day and their saw last 2-3 years.. I'll bet the saw is around that 250-300 ish hour mark.. not whatever it would be if it were actually 8 hours a day for 2-3 years, that'd be a lot of hours.. even for a Hawk in my mind.

 

Kevin, great job on the leopard, where would i get a hour meter for a saw,might be a good idea to keep track of the hf saw.

[kmmcrafts]

3 hours ago, timelett said:

Kevin, great job on the leopard, where would i get a hour meter for a saw,might be a good idea to keep track of the hf saw.

Bought mine off eBay.. I have one of the digital ones but I don't care for the fact that every 1/10 is 6 minutes.. and if you're in between digits you could be just a few seconds from going to the next 1/10 but not know it.. Plus they ( at least mine ) don't have a way to change the battery so you toss it in the landfill when it dies. So I prefer the analog style. 

I bought a short cheap extension cord and cut the end off to crimp the spade connectors to it.. then a three way plug that I plug into my foot switch so then it powers the saw, seyco dust collector, and the hour meter. So it all runs off the foot switch. 

Most any hour meter like for a generator etc. will work. This is like I use but if I were to do over again I might go with the round one.. as they should be mounted in a electrical box or enclosure and I think it'd be easier to cut a round hole to mount it than the rectangle hole since I have hole saws but not ones for a rectangle, lol https://www.ebay.com/itm/296134624082?_skw=hour+meter&itmmeta=01JD26ZVXEQKKS0D3EAH4WR8DD&hash=item44f2ffc352:g:mj4AAOSwCvJjT56d&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKn80mRA1ONtRZ5BH3rCMsO3KNhsbwZMbPO4aoU%2BX%2BiM63%2FOEM3PRrYQFU7LVSUFnX0AG7%2B91339mb7AckWPbrGpXtvIM0PE36zng43BfFRxhnAJIPs03a6k3mxUbpUoRkI4R4%2FOSMQwhy5a3vIUjJHaPaE40D5UD6BJqRWXYrIznpzoB9XlcE1QkY%2FL%2Fgnq%2BGWMRiusNeBaZkJ6ESIyn7NEmpN44FHY46Tgvx9U%2F4x4Appc2wd4zBouEg11z2fF5Pn4WRVZT6pJTqg3U5VNfHB%2FwGzQg20rdDLIL64qS9rflg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_q-_8boZA

Edited November 19 by kmmcrafts

[Wichman]

1 hour ago, kmmcrafts said:

Bought mine off eBay.. I have one of the digital ones but I don't care for the fact that every 1/10 is 6 minutes.. and if you're in between digits you could be just a few seconds from going to the next 1/10 but not know it.. Plus they ( at least mine ) don't have a way to change the battery so you toss it in the landfill when it dies. So I prefer the analog style. 

I bought a short cheap extension cord and cut the end off to crimp the spade connectors to it.. then a three way plug that I plug into my foot switch so then it powers the saw, seyco dust collector, and the hour meter. So it all runs off the foot switch. 

Most any hour meter like for a generator etc. will work. This is like I use but if I were to do over again I might go with the round one.. as they should be mounted in a electrical box or enclosure and I think it'd be easier to cut a round hole to mount it than the rectangle hole since I have hole saws but not ones for a rectangle, lol https://www.ebay.com/itm/296134624082?_skw=hour+meter&itmmeta=01JD26ZVXEQKKS0D3EAH4WR8DD&hash=item44f2ffc352:g:mj4AAOSwCvJjT56d&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKn80mRA1ONtRZ5BH3rCMsO3KNhsbwZMbPO4aoU%2BX%2BiM63%2FOEM3PRrYQFU7LVSUFnX0AG7%2B91339mb7AckWPbrGpXtvIM0PE36zng43BfFRxhnAJIPs03a6k3mxUbpUoRkI4R4%2FOSMQwhy5a3vIUjJHaPaE40D5UD6BJqRWXYrIznpzoB9XlcE1QkY%2FL%2Fgnq%2BGWMRiusNeBaZkJ6ESIyn7NEmpN44FHY46Tgvx9U%2F4x4Appc2wd4zBouEg11z2fF5Pn4WRVZT6pJTqg3U5VNfHB%2FwGzQg20rdDLIL64qS9rflg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_q-_8boZA

Rectangular hole saws:

https://www.amazon.com/hylissus-Oscillating-Stainless-Electrical-Rectangle/dp/B0C6JY75SB/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=2W7JMAN6YDTWU&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.x3T3eQxPUgaQ_Ym3WmAbJ73sVoW8AzCQ90xL5j2iVed_YOYsDPhPIMM8sK1MIUyC1z5TqbU6wxL7k5Pg9IdXxprY2Qt3tVzKZL5MHBp1VrpnHPDg4cMA_buSWs1fRcujcl-bfZCHwKXOgPGj8DvoLSnbDGKVXNpSLJ1Cgi77v7Z9Gad301vTHwso9MqAt0Z2HQF9zC4JaR7C91xX_z4djg.S6b0ighdjgklYpBknc-5d-ILLNmFpwLIRx9DhsEltzw&dib_tag=se&keywords=oscillating+saw+outlet+cutter&qid=1732024176&sprefix=outlet+saw+%2Caps%2C260&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1