Zero Clearence Top

[Hawk]

I'm planning to add a zero clearance top to my Hawk. Planning to make it slightly wider and just as long as the current top and something thst would go over the current top. Just wondering from those who have done something like this, what material did you use. My first thought is clear acrylic,  just wondering if there was something better?

Chris 

[kmmcrafts]

I think hardboard is what I've seen people make them from. If you had a metal table that magnetic sheet like is used on the Seyco saw would be easy to cut and make, but I'm not sure it'd stay in place on a aluminum table top. 

https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/handi-panels/2-x-4-hardboard-handi-panel/1291119/p-1642874322992553-c-13337.htm?exp=false

I've also seen people just tape a playing card over the top of the hole around the blade and use the original saw table.. Seems like you'd have to be careful not to have the project catch onto the edge of it but I've never tried it so I don't know. 

[BadBob]

24 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

I've also seen people just tape a playing card over the top of the hole around the blade and use the original saw table.. Seems like you'd have to be careful not to have the project catch onto the edge of it but I've never tried it so I don't know. 

I've done this with plastic cards. I only use it when cutting small parts, so catching them on the edge of the card isn't an issue for me.

28 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

I think hardboard is what I've seen people make them from. If you had a metal table that magnetic sheet like is used on the Seyco saw would be easy to cut and make, but I'm not sure it'd stay in place on a aluminum table top. 

I had one of the magnetic tops, but I did not like it. I much prefer the waxed steel top.

 

[BadBob]

Formica/laminate, like those used on countertops, might work if you can figure out a way to hold it flat and still be able to remove it.

In my limited experience, zero clearance on a scroll saw does not stay zero clearance for long. Whatever you use, you will need to be able to change it from time to time.

[scrollerpete]

Magnetic white board could work, I used one on a used EX that was used in school and the table top was in real bad shape.

Got it from Amazon

 

 

 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I used clear acrylic and adhered it with double sided tape. Did that many years ago and it stood the test of time. It allows for easy movement of the project and can be waxed if need be. As far as zero clearance. I cut the opening small but it is not exact. No need for that. The blade will enlarge the hole over time because of the flex in it. I made it a little larger than the top to accommodate larger projects so they will not fall off the ends when spinning to cut. I found out right away I need that when I started cutting out my larger mirrors. I did this to both saws. I did not like the metal tables because the wood does not slide well because they way they are finished. I found the acrylic is not too slippery and still allows for good control of the piece but the more experienced you get the faster you turn the pieces and that is what I liked about the material. Got plexiglass from Home Depot in window dept. 

[Scrappile]

I use old masonite salvaged from an old wood file cabinet.   It has stood the test of time, but it is about it's end of time.  I do wax it once in a while.   This is on my Hegner.  When I replace it, I will definitely make one for the Hawk.   One thing I did on my Hegner and will do on the Hawk is make it so I can have a replaceable insert where the blade goes through. It has worked well for me.

 

Edited Tuesday at 03:35 PM by Scrappile

[Hawk]

5 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

I've also seen people just tape a playing card over the top of the hole around the blade and use the original saw table.. Seems like you'd have to be careful not to have the project catch onto the edge of it but I've never tried it so I don't know.

Tried that, even using a thin piece of 1/16th ply and it does work on small pieces, but in looking ahead to larger projects, like the fret work Viking, the bottom layer experiences some tear out especially with the thin cuts. Trying to avoid that.

[rash_powder]

I've used a flexible cutting board.  No idea the product name; got a pack of 3 or 5 different colors at Menards for about $5.  Carpet tape held them on.  They do wear out, but cheap and no wax needed.  I also had a piece of 1/8" hardboard I stuck on to the table; also with carpet tape.  I'm back to the aluminum table now.  No reason, just went back to that.  

If I was doing a project larger than my table I would probably go with 1/8" hardboard.  A frame could be attached underneath to make it more rigid and offer attachment points for legs if need be.  Maybe put a poly coat on top and then wax it real good.  

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

4 hours ago, Hawk said:

Tried that, even using a thin piece of 1/16th ply and it does work on small pieces, but in looking ahead to larger projects, like the fret work Viking, the bottom layer experiences some tear out especially with the thin cuts. Trying to avoid that.

Zero clearance top will not prevent tearout on bottom at all. You get no support after a few cuts because that slot or hole opens quickly because of the flex in the blade. You are better off using reverse tooth blades. They do help but need to watch if you make an auxiliary table top that if too thick it cancels out those reverse teeth and they do not work. 

[jollyred]

Made mine from a piece of tempered hardboard, about 8" x 11".  Put some thin foam on the back to prevent slipping, and cut holes for magnets the same thickness as the foam.  Cut a slot up the middle of it with a #3 or #5 blade.  Put about 2 coats of polyurethane on it to make it even tougher.  Once the finish dried, I waxed it up to make it really slippery.  To put it on I just slip it over the blade till the blade is at the end of the slot.  I have a hole at one end to hang on the scroll saw stand so it is handy for doing small parts.  It is big enough that I don't need to worry about going off of it for most of my cuts.

Tom

[Millwab]

11 hours ago, Hawk said:

… the bottom layer experiences some tear out especially with the thin cuts. Trying to avoid that.

Chris, have you tried covering the bottom with shelf liner or a thin piece of cardboard (like a cereal box)?  When I’m cutting 2-sided puzzles and want to minimize any fuzzies I put clear Contact shelf liner on the bottom. Works well for me and comes off very cleanly.