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Beewax - non-toxic finish


Ber Gueda

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I am concerned about toxic finishings to wood. This is why I would like to use only natural non-toxic products as olive oil or beewax, specially for toys and chopping or cutting boards. 

I intended to use raw beewax, but I am afraid that I would have to mix it with some kind of oil for a better application. Turpentine essence is not an option, as well as oils with solvents.

What is your experience with beewax and what other products you use with it? My only requirement is not to use anything toxic.

Thanks!

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All finishes sold in the US are nontoxic when cured. The key word here is cured, which is not the same thing as dry.

Wood is toxic, and some are more toxic than others. I have been up to my eyeballs in this issue since opening my Etsy shop in 2017. I use acrylic paint, shellac, polyurethane, and a custom wax blend with a mineral oil base. All of these have a very short cure time. Oil-based polyurethane has a long cure time of 2-4 weeks. Most oil-based finishes have the same 2-4 weeks cure time.

 

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I did a video on this a few years ago on my blog about how to make your own mineral oil and beeswax.. Have to make sure you don't heat up too hot or you'll have a fire going.. Here in the USA you can buy this at some of the local woodcrafts type stores already made up.. though a small container is pricey and making it is easy. I'm sure there is probably other videos on this topic on YouTube.. 

https://www.kevskrafts.com/blog

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4 hours ago, BadBob said:

You can buy it in a gallon jug on Amazon. It's much cheaper.

Mebbe.  Target lists it for $2.99/16oz (figures out to about $24/gal) and I saw it listed for anywhere from $22 to $30 a gallon on Amazon. 

Either way a gallon is a lot.  Unless you are doing cutting board mass production, a gallon will last a loooong time.

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I use Kevins recipe of beeswax and mineral oil. A little goes a long way. Like Bill said a gallon of mineral oil would last a long time.

i also use shellac, which is food safe, quite often. 
 

if I know I will be sitting a piece for awhile, I will use Minwax Antique Oil, but it does take a bit to cure. It’s also my favorite finish to use. 
 

I agree with BadBob. Key word is cured. 

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I have worked my way through Poly, Poly & Tung oil, Lacquer, and now shellac.  Shellac has been a go-to finish for children's toys for decades.  I dissolve the shellac flakes using 190 proof Everclear Vodka purchased at a Liquor store.  It is has a very little odor but, unfortunately, the 190 proof version is not sold everywhere.  I had to drive to Wisconsin to buy it. 

I used the 1 1/2 pound "cut" (1.5 pounds of shellac flakes per gallon ration or scaled down as needed) as recommended for the French Polish method of application.  Shellac can be applied as a sealer, brushed, sprayed, dipped and padded on as a fine finish.  Using the French Polish technique you can achieve a high gloss finish that, unlike lacquer, is very "close to the wood."   YouTube has a number of videos showing the padding technique.  The wood shown here is "Live Edge Cherry" and the finish was padded on with 12 applications rubbed in with roughly 30-45 minutes between applications.  I know kids toy makers simply dip and let dry shellac for a non-toxic finish. 

  IMG_0540(1).thumb.JPG.095a53b209065807822f1f7382ceccfa.JPG

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