Best blade for thick wood.

[timelett]

Just learning the basics, what blade is good or better for cutting 3/4 hard wood,I enjoy making puzzles and bowls.

[dgman]

Just now, timelett said:

Just learning the basics, what blade is good or better for cutting 3/4 hard wood,I enjoy making puzzles and bowls.

For 3/4” puzzles I like to use a #3 FD UR reverse blade. You need to make sure the blade is a perfect 90 degrees to the table and make sure you don’t apply any lateral pressure to the blade. When you do, this bevels the cut and the pieces will not slide out on both sides. 

[Wichman]

IMHO it is not the thickness of the wood, it is, how tight a radius, are you trying to turn. Or, how small a kerf can you work with.

I have cut 1 1/2" purple heart with a FD Polar #1 blade. I needed a very small kerf for a sliding dovetail the length of the piece. 

[preprius]

I use #1 pegas mgt or super skip for 3/4 " walnut and maple bowls / hats. Also in 1.5 " turning blocks. I don't want big kerf. 

 

When I don't need small kerf, #3 or #5 super skip for 1.5" turning blocks. Sometimes I go with #7. But that is a rare event. 

I have 2" turning blocks that will be an interesting cut.  I have to figure out what the end product will be.

 

[timelett]

Thanks, i'm thinking a skip tooth # 2 3 or 4?

[kmmcrafts]

I cut a lot of Cherry, Maple, Oak, and Walnut as well as moth other hardwoods in 3/4" thickness for my clocks I make.. and I've always used a #3 or #5 blade.. I like the Pegas MGT blades or I used to use a lot of the FD Ultra Reverse.. however now days that I've learned more along my scrolling journey probably a skip tooth would be better than the Ultra Reverse if using FD brand blades. Those Pegas MGT blades have worked wonders on most everything I've thrown at them and I only buy the #3 and #5 sizes.. and cut everything from 1/8" - 1" with them.. but on occasion I use smaller blades but in the smaller sizes I like the FD brand better than Pegas.. That's just what I like though.. everyone has their own comfort / skill level.

Blades are subjective to one's saw set-up and how fast / slow etc. they're comfortable cutting at so I always like to make this statement because I could suggest my go to blade but you may hate it.. as you can already see.. some have mentioned a #1 blade.. They have way more patients than I do.. Now not saying I'd never use a #1 on 1" as I have for special veining etc.. but I'm not interested in cutting out a whole bowl from hardwood with a #1 blade.. Not sure what type of puzzles you're talking about.. but since you mentioned 3/4" wood I assume you're not talking about gluing a picture to a 1/4" piece of plywood and making a puzzle from the picture.. Most the 3/4" puzzles I make I cut with a #3 MGT blade..  

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I am in the #5 double skip tooth Silver reverse FD blade. I use that blade for just about all cuttings including 3/4" woods. Many times it takes some trial and error to settle on a blade that works well for you. That is why it is always good to buy a few different types and sizes just to have on hand to play with. Well worth the money and effort in the long run.

[BadBob]

I have cut 3/4-inch ipe with #3 Pegas MGT. It cut fine, but the blade dulled quickly. I routinely cut 3/4-inch puzzles from hardwood with the same blade.

It depends on what you are cutting and how you cut. I prefer to cut slowly to get a smoother cut that requires little or no sanding. You need to try it and see if it works for you.

[MarieC]

I am with @Wichman and @preprius on this one.  I do really tight turns but if you are doing puzzles maybe you don't need that tight of turns.

[Roberta Moreton]

I use a #3 skip tooth blade.