Blades blades oh my head hirts

[Tom Gi]

I got a 2024 used hegner 22

as far as I know it has the standard blade holders I understand there is 3 different blade thickness holders now looking at blades there is so many different ones I’m going to cut plywood the most then cherry wood is there a good standard blade to go with  

I see most people are using flying dutchman

at some time I would like to try spiral too

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Tom Hegner has one blade holder type so concentrate on that. Forget about all others for different saws. Learn on your saw which is an excellent saw. It is one of the top of the line saws out there. Forget about spiral blades for now. Again get them out of your mind. Next Blade brand is not important so again get that out of your mind. Down the road when you get the feel of what you are doing and want to do you  can experiment and the experimenting will mean much more to you than right now. Flying Dutchman are excellent blades and the only ones I use. Other here like Pegas which too are excellent blades. FD blades can be gotten from Mike's Workshop. and Pegas blades can be gotten from right here Denny.  https://www.artcraftersonline.com/ When you talk plywood I hope you are talking Baltic or Finnish Birch because they will not splinter as much and make for better more stable pieces. Cherry can burn but a good suggestion is to look through the threads here under blade selections and see he many answers or others will give suggestions. My go to blade for most any cutting I do is a #5 FD Penguin Silver Reverse blade. Love those blades. Good luck and have fun.

Edited December 28, 2024 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[OCtoolguy]

J.T. just summed up the advice I've heard. I started out with a sample pack of FD blades. I had a piece of birch plywood and a butterfly pattern glued to it. I still have that piece hanging in my shop window. The 3 most important words are, practice, practice and practice.

[Wichman]

Good advice in both responses.

I'll add my 2 cents worth.

Yes, Hegner makes three sizes of blade holders, and you cannot tell them apart with the naked eye. You don't need them to start and until or unless you've decided that you are going to use the respective sizes a lot. If you decide to get the other size(s) then plan on a way to mark them, I used fingernail polish, or you'll be using feeler gauges to tell them apart.

I agree that sample packs are a good way to start. But get sample packs in a logical manner. A sample of blade types, all the same size, for example. Once you have a blade type ( Polar, scroll reverse, penguin silver, etc) then get a sample of different blade sizes of just that type. When you order blades, throw in a blade type you are unfamiliar with, give it a shot, and keep your options open.

As for practice, there are many practice patterns available. If you have the time and patience then spend some time just learning how the saw cuts and develope muscle memory. If you know you are weak in one type of cutting, then print a test pattern with your regular pattern to keep developing your skills. (If you have issues with letters then print off a couple of letters in the waste area of a pattern).

Give 'er a go and remember, it's all just one hole at a time.

[kmmcrafts]

11 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

Tom Hegner has one blade holder type so concentrate on that. Forget about all others for different saws. Learn on your saw which is an excellent saw. It is one of the top of the line saws out there. Forget about spiral blades for now. Again get them out of your mind. Next Blade brand is not important so again get that out of your mind. Down the road when you get the feel of what you are doing and want to do you  can experiment and the experimenting will mean much more to you than right now. Flying Dutchman are excellent blades and the only ones I use. Other here like Pegas which too are excellent blades. FD blades can be gotten from Mike's Workshop. and Pegas blades can be gotten from right here Denny.  https://www.artcraftersonline.com/ When you talk plywood I hope you are talking Baltic or Finnish Birch because they will not splinter as much and make for better more stable pieces. Cherry can burn but a good suggestion is to look through the threads here under blade selections and see he many answers or others will give suggestions. My go to blade for most any cutting I do is a #5 FD Penguin Silver Reverse blade. Love those blades. Good luck and have fun.

 

7 hours ago, Wichman said:

Good advice in both responses.

I'll add my 2 cents worth.

Yes, Hegner makes three sizes of blade holders, and you cannot tell them apart with the naked eye. You don't need them to start and until or unless you've decided that you are going to use the respective sizes a lot. If you decide to get the other size(s) then plan on a way to mark them, I used fingernail polish, or you'll be using feeler gauges to tell them apart.

I agree that sample packs are a good way to start. But get sample packs in a logical manner. A sample of blade types, all the same size, for example. Once you have a blade type ( Polar, scroll reverse, penguin silver, etc) then get a sample of different blade sizes of just that type. When you order blades, throw in a blade type you are unfamiliar with, give it a shot, and keep your options open.

As for practice, there are many practice patterns available. If you have the time and patience then spend some time just learning how the saw cuts and develope muscle memory. If you know you are weak in one type of cutting, then print a test pattern with your regular pattern to keep developing your skills. (If you have issues with letters then print off a couple of letters in the waste area of a pattern).

Give 'er a go and remember, it's all just one hole at a time.

Since I also have a used Hegner and we are talking blade holders.. Probably just like the original poster here... I have no clue what size blade holders I have with my Hegner... The extra blades I got with the saw look more like cut down bandsaw blades. Wouldn't the experience be quite frustrating to a newbie if the blade holder is the large one and the newbie is trying to use like a 2/0 blade.. I know one of the reasons I haven't used my Hegner much is I can't seem to keep the blade clamped into the holder very well.. I've even cranked down the pinch bolt on one of the holders so tight that it snapped the bolt off.. Very frustrating to me as a seasoned scroller so I cannot imagine the frustration of a newbie scroller trying to learn.. 

SO, with that all said... I recommend finding out what size holder you have and what size blade you're planning to use to save yourself some aggravation. I know for myself that I need some new holders.. and I also know that you can use the middle sized holder for a step up or down in size of blades but I also know that you cannot jump several sizes without issues.. so keep that in mind. I think the new hegner comes with the middle sized holder.. I do not remember the size numbers for the sized blades but I have looked it up in either the manual or on advancedmachinery.com website and looked up to buy blade holders.. I believe the description told what blade size numbers the said holders would use.. I need to buy some myself because I believe I have large sized holders and I need the middle sized ones.   

[Wichman]

From the horses mouth:

https://www.advmachinery.com/products/hegner-blade-clamps

[Wichman]

The more you know.

I checked my holders and what do you know, I had switched two of them. I didn't know that the middle size, .7 mm had a dimple. Now the middle size has a dot of fingernail polish as well.

[rjweb]

I belive hegner has a quick clamp that will accept all size blade, but out of stock right now, RJ

[Scrappile]

Yes the quick clamp can be used on all sizes.  It is to replace the top clamp. You do not use a tool to clamp the blade.  The regular clamps should not be held tightly, but "float in the clamp holder".   The quick clamp should be held tight in the the top clamp holder.  I use the #5 clamp in bottom holder for all sizes of blades. But I I have never used a blade larger than a  #5.

https://www.advmachinery.com/products/hegner-quickclamp?_pos=3&_sid=2253c4226&_ss=r 

Edited December 28, 2024 by Scrappile

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Well I just got educated. Not that it matters I do not have my Hegner any more. I did not know they made 3 different blade clamps and never used them I used the knurled knob type and never had a problem. I used all kinds of blades and sizes in that saw but mainly #7 when I was cutting baskets out. Times I switched to #9.  I actually think that is one stupid set up now that I know. Was never informed from sales person and guess never read this in booklet. I really did not like their blade clamp holding system to begin with but it did work well. Is there numbers, markings, or some other indication to let people know what size they are so OP can check his?? That universal blade clamp is what I used. Now I assume the lower blade clamp needs to be matched with blades. Again I never did that and how did I ever cut as much as I did. I never snapped any bolts or broken a darn thing. Kevin you should stay away from machinery. You have to rebuild everything you touch.  Just a side note. Back in 1993 those blade clamps were $13.95 per set. It is in their catalog back then and never paid attention I guess. Now the use of spiral blades, not sure how they work in those clamps maybe someone can comment on them too. They were not around when I bought my saw. I assume they too need certain size clamps per size blades. 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

2 hours ago, Wichman said:

The more you know.

I checked my holders and what do you know, I had switched two of them. I didn't know that the middle size, .7 mm had a dimple. Now the middle size has a dot of fingernail polish as well.

Now that you mentioned it I remember my clamps had a dimple too. I never paid attention to it .I guess that is why I never had a problem because I always was in range of the blades I used. I never used less than a #5 or more that a #9. I switched right away to that knurled knob clamp and that I guess is a universal so did not see any effect there either. That actually is a good thing because it was so easy to tighten. 

[Bill WIlson]

I have nothing to offer or add regarding the Hegner blade holders.  I've never used a Hegner and know less than nothing about them.  You also asked a question about blades.  That is one of the most common questions asked by beginners and there should be several threads on the topic.  The general rule of thumb is the larger the number of the blade, the thicker the blade and the fewer teeth per inch, meaning it will be more aggressive.  Large, aggressive blades are best suited for simple cuts in thick hardwoods.  The smallest blades are the least aggressive, but offer more control and are best suited for intricate cuts and tight turns in thinner stock.  There are several tooth configurations available.  Reverse tooth blades are commonly used for most fretwork, as they leave least tear out on the back side of the wood.

There is far more to learn about blades types and styles.  Here is a link to a blade chart that is fairly comprehensive.  It will give you a good overview of the specs and best uses of each type/size.

RBI Hawk blade chart

Also there is a page on the Flying Dutchman website that provides some more info on choosing a blade.

choosing a blade

These pages should tell you most of what you need to know to get started.  As was mentioned, get some basic blades, such as the starter packs that were referenced and once you get a little more experience, you can do a deeper dive into experimenting to find out what really works best for you and your saw.

Good luck and have fun making sawdust!

[rash_powder]

When I got my Hegner from the pawn shop it had a quick clamp on top; the lower I don't know what size it is. 

The smallest blade I have used is an Olson #2 and the largest is an Olson #7 or maybe #9.  They all seemed to work correctly - that is the project was finished in a way I felt acceptable given my skill and equipment. 

Give what you have a go and see what comes of it.  No need to spend $$ on parts if what you have works.

[Tom Gi]

On 12/27/2024 at 9:03 PM, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

Tom Hegner has one blade holder type so concentrate on that. Forget about all others for different saws. Learn on your saw which is an excellent saw. It is one of the top of the line saws out there. Forget about spiral blades for now. Again get them out of your mind. Next Blade brand is not important so again get that out of your mind. Down the road when you get the feel of what you are doing and want to do you  can experiment and the experimenting will mean much more to you than right now. Flying Dutchman are excellent blades and the only ones I use. Other here like Pegas which too are excellent blades. FD blades can be gotten from Mike's Workshop. and Pegas blades can be gotten from right here Denny.  https://www.artcraftersonline.com/ When you talk plywood I hope you are talking Baltic or Finnish Birch because they will not splinter as much and make for better more stable pieces. Cherry can burn but a good suggestion is to look through the threads here under blade selections and see he many answers or others will give suggestions. My go to blade for most any cutting I do is a #5 FD Penguin Silver Reverse blade. Love those blades. Good luck and have fun.

I don’t no how to reply without it adding the whole subject 

there is three different size blade holders for this saw 

are all the blades now one size in thickness 

[Tom Gi]

On 12/28/2024 at 8:31 AM, kmmcrafts said:

 

Since I also have a used Hegner and we are talking blade holders.. Probably just like the original poster here... I have no clue what size blade holders I have with my Hegner... The extra blades I got with the saw look more like cut down bandsaw blades. Wouldn't the experience be quite frustrating to a newbie if the blade holder is the large one and the newbie is trying to use like a 2/0 blade.. I know one of the reasons I haven't used my Hegner much is I can't seem to keep the blade clamped into the holder very well.. I've even cranked down the pinch bolt on one of the holders so tight that it snapped the bolt off.. Very frustrating to me as a seasoned scroller so I cannot imagine the frustration of a newbie scroller trying to learn.. 

SO, with that all said... I recommend finding out what size holder you have and what size blade you're planning to use to save yourself some aggravation. I know for myself that I need some new holders.. and I also know that you can use the middle sized holder for a step up or down in size of blades but I also know that you cannot jump several sizes without issues.. so keep that in mind. I think the new hegner comes with the middle sized holder.. I do not remember the size numbers for the sized blades but I have looked it up in either the manual or on advancedmachinery.com website and looked up to buy blade holders.. I believe the description told what blade size numbers the said holders would use.. I need to buy some myself because I believe I have large sized holders and I need the middle sized ones.   

Thanks for the info

i found that loosening the blade tension knob on the back then put the blade in and push the tension lever back and then turn tension knob half or three quarters turn works good for me now 

also scuffed the top of the blade with sand paper for some gripping power

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, Tom Gi said:

Thanks for the info

i found that loosening the blade tension knob on the back then put the blade in and push the tension lever back and then turn tension knob half or three quarters turn works good for me now 

also scuffed the top of the blade with sand paper for some gripping power

Right, that is how it is supposed to be done.. in theory you shouldn't need to do this every single time you change a blade unless you're changing to a different size blade, But if you use Pegas brand blades they aren't always consistently the same length.. They are my favorite blade but they are a little hassle when using a Hawk or Hegner type saw because the way the tension system works on these.. 

Blade thickness changes from one blade to another when jumping into size and style of blade.. This is why Hegner has the three different sized blade holder / chucks.. My saw came with ( I'm guessing ) the larger sized chucks.. I can clamp a #5 blade okay but anything smaller slips out of the lower chuck. I have the quick clamp on the upper arm and that one isn't an issue.. 

I find that Pegas brand blades are also thinner than many of the other brands when comparing sizes.. (ie a number 5 Pegas is like halfway in-between a #3 and #5 in other brands of blades..  I can get a #3 Flying Dutchman or Olsen blade to hold in the blade chuck too.. but my go to blade is the Pegas.. Usually a #3 or #5 is the only size blades I use for flat blades and #2/0 or #1 when using spirals.   

 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

4 hours ago, Tom Gi said:

I don’t no how to reply without it adding the whole subject 

there is three different size blade holders for this saw 

are all the blades now one size in thickness 

No, blades from different companies can vary as well as within the company. The thinner the blade the smaller the blade. The larger blades are thicker. Maybe call Hegner to see if they have a code that is somewhere written to identify which holder is which. I can not help there. I just found out there were 3 sizes. Have no idea why they would do that. 

[Wichman]

4 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

No, blades from different companies can vary as well as within the company. The thinner the blade the smaller the blade. The larger blades are thicker. Maybe call Hegner to see if they have a code that is somewhere written to identify which holder is which. I can not help there. I just found out there were 3 sizes. Have no idea why they would do that. 

The style of clamp works by pressing two plates together, with a small area at the back of the clamp to hold it together. When used with the proper blade thickness it has a clamping surface of about 3/16". If the blade thickness is mismatched to the clamp that surface is reduced, sometimes to a pinch point, which increases wear and can cause premature blade failure (that's what happened to me and why I have all three sizes ).

[rash_powder]

So, why couldn't a person use a quick clamp in the bottom arm?  I am pretty sure that I test fit mine and it does fit.  They are shaped the same too, its just how the grip the blade.  

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

11 hours ago, Wichman said:

The style of clamp works by pressing two plates together, with a small area at the back of the clamp to hold it together. When used with the proper blade thickness it has a clamping surface of about 3/16". If the blade thickness is mismatched to the clamp that surface is reduced, sometimes to a pinch point, which increases wear and can cause premature blade failure (that's what happened to me and why I have all three sizes ).

Yea I was being facetious. I do know how they clamp because as I said I owned a Hegner for quite awhile. But again they could have gone to a thru bolt like every other company to secure blades and used one size holder. To me another money grab for a saw that cost so much already. Stubborn to change too. 

[Tom Gi]

If I had the chance to make an improvement 

I would use pin blade on the bottom and the a quick clamp on the top that would hold any blade

[Wichman]

On 12/30/2024 at 7:22 PM, Tom Gi said:

If I had the chance to make an improvement 

I would use pin blade on the bottom and the a quick clamp on the top that would hold any blade

Funny you should say that. You can use pin end blades in the Hegner. Just take out the blade clamp and voila. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the top pin...   Still have to drill a larger pilot hole and the blade selection is not very good.