LIVE EDGE FRETWORK SCROLLING

[Timberdan]

I have a brown trout pattern that I want to scroll onto a piece of live edge wood and I was wondering how thin I could possibly get away with without much warping. I also want to know what type of hardwood is less prone to warpage . I was looking at some past posts and the one that interested me the most was an eagle fretwork piece that looks like it was cut into a live edge slab of white ash and the post was dated October 10 2018 by KMMCRAFTS . Beautiful looking piece I may add I was wondering how thick of piece of slab wood the eagle was cut into . The pattern that I have is 22" long by 13 1/2" wide . Any feedback would be appreciated Thanks Dan

[rash_powder]

I make Christmas ornaments from 1/4" poplar and occasionally aspen; both kiln dried.  No troubles with warping after the items are cut.  

Personally, I wouldn't really go thinner than maybe 3/16" with any wood.  If I need thinner plywood is available in several sizes down to 1/64".  

Regardless of species, I would think you will want kiln dried and a piece with as much of the growth rings being perpendicular to the width as possible (I think I said that right - lay your stock on the table and the rings should all run up and down).  Avoid the pith as well.  I would let the material acclimate to your shop for several days too just to be sure its stabilized to its new environment.  

You could also use a piece of regular lumber and simulate live edge.  I've seen a few wood workers on youtube do this.  Cut a wavy edge and sand to an un-even bevel.  That may get you a more stable piece.  

 

[Timberdan]

Thanks for the reply . I usually go no thinner than 1/2 " for all my fretwork projects so i guess what you are saying is to get kiln dried wood for starters. I guess I have to find an honest broker that sells live edge wood. BTW I always use natural hardwood for all my cutouts and I use baltic birch as a backer. I can get white pine but I find it breaks easily especially for advanced fretwork projects that I have made so that's why I stick to using hardwood because its much stronger and it soaks the tung oil finish extremely well that I use for a finish on most of my fretwork pieces.

[BadBob]

I have cut fretwork from various materials, from pallets to expensive exotic woods. Wood's natural characteristics can sometimes lead to breakage, as it may have hidden defects that cause it to fall apart. If you have wood available, try it, but be sure to pay attention to the direction of the grain. You will find patterns where there is no good way to cut them without the grain being a problem.

For the items that need strength, I have made plywood.

[Dan]

You can probably go as thin as you want if you add a thicker backer. A backer of 1/2" plywood glued to the piece should work well. Most of mine are roughly 3/4" thick with 1/8" backer.

Edited January 7 by Dan

[Timberdan]

That's  exactly what I do on all my fretwork projects. Im picking up a nice live edge slab of White Ash tomorrow that is planed to 1/2 inch and kiln dried . Can't wait to get started on cutting it out . Thanks for the feedback