Compound Scroll Sawing

[JimNC]

I would like to get into compound scroll sawing. Any advice? I have looked at Steve Good site but would like some in depth instruction. 

[Ctutor]

it is fairly straight forward. just make certain your blank is as perfectly square as you can get it. You can put up with one side not perfectly square but the common side needs to be as square as possible.  you just need to make certain the common side is flush up and down where the pattern fold is made

 

[Scrappile]

Use a blade like a pegas modified  geometry.  Never one with reverse teeth.  You want a blade that will clear out as much saw dust as possible as it saws, go slow, do not force the cut. 

[Denny Knappen]

I use Pegas #6 Super Skip blades.  About the same tpi as Pegas MGT blades without the reverse teeth. 

[Wichman]

When you get ready to print a pattern make sure the fold line is as thin as you can while still able to see the line. Fold the pattern as accurately on the line as you can ( a ruler with a cork strip helps to keep slipping to a minimum ) , once the fold is started gently continue to fold to a sharp crease. Unfold the crease to about 120°, spray with adhesive, start the pattern on one edge and holding that edge with one finger, carefully set the pattern down the crease. Starting at the center of the pattern, press one side down working from the center out. Once one side is down, repeat for other side.

 

Once you cut the first side ( I cut the wider of the two sides first ), you will need a way to hold the first cut in place while you cut the second. There two common methods to do this; 1. Use a jig. 2 tape the pieces together with clear packing tape, the tape has to be clear so you can see the pattern. Press the tape firmly, otherwise sawdust can get underneath the tape and obscure the pattern lines.

Troubleshooting:

If the cut piece will only come out one direction then the table is not square to the blade.

If the cut piece will not come out either side, then the blade is bending inside the cut; a dull blade, not enough tension, or the wrong blade style can be to blame.

If one side is thinner than the other then;

Blank is not square, the pattern is kitty wampus, the table is not square to the blade, all of the above.

[timelett]

A question, is it better to use a soft wood like pine or a harder wood? 

[Wichman]

In my opinion, fresh pine construction lumber is a good choice. Old pine gets pretty hard and can be difficult to cut. Do not start with redwood or any hardwood with distinct bands in the wood the difference between the soft and hard zones make cutting, when you can't see the grain, difficult.

[Ctutor]

The finer straighter grain the better

[don in brooklin on]

I teach a course at our club and I have 2 hand outs.

First are the instructions from Diana Thompson that I lifted from one of her pattern books.  Patterns removed as copyrighted. 

Secondly, I give out a pattern source book that has a pattern from Steve Good plus the patterns from the Ornaments for Charity book. The club also has the issue 156 and 160 of Creative Woodworking and Crafts issue that has the full set of birdhouses.

As far as wood is concerned I have used a variety of woods, Walnut, Ash, Maple, Poplar, Cherry.  I only use pine for ornaments or when I am going to paint or stain.

compound how to.pdf compound sources and ornaments.pdf

[jerry walters]

One of the issues I had was folding the pattern along the dashed line accurately.  Was always a little off.  Don't remember where I read this tip. but using a straight edge and a xacto knife, score pattern along the dashed line (don't press too hard or you will cut through the pattern), this will give you an accurate fold.  

I basically use three different kinds of wood because this is what my big box store has available in 1 1/2 inch square.  Poplar. Oak, and select pine.  I think the select pine is a higher quality than construction pine.  Is usually very smooth and free from knots.  Hopefully the tips you have read from this thread will give you some encouragement to give compound sawing a try.  I got some tips that I will try. When I first tried, results were mostly lopsided, but finally caught on.  One book i purchased was 3-D Patterns for the Scroll Saw by Diana Thompson. Got some good tips from this.

Happy New Year to all, and Happy Compound Scrolling.

Jerry

[Bill WIlson]

I'll echo the statements that square stock and an accurately folded pattern are absolutely crucial to getting good results.  

I also recommend starting all of your cuts from a hole drilled in waste areas, like regular fretwork.  If you avoid cutting from the outside of the blank, it will be easier to hold it together.  You can also use a simple, homemade clamping jig to hold your blank together as well.  I think Steve Good shows how to make one on his site.  Some folks wrap it in clear packing tape after cutting one side, but I don't care for messing with tape, unless I need it to prevent burning.

Edited December 31, 2024 by Bill WIlson

[jerry walters]

9 minutes ago, Bill WIlson said:

I'll echo the statements that square stock and an accurately folded pattern are absolutely crucial to getting good results.  

I also recommend starting all of your cuts from a hole drilled in waste areas, like regular fretwork.  If you avoid cutting from the outside of the blank, it will be easier to hold it together.  You can also use a simple, homemade clamping jig to hold your blank together as well.  I think Steve Good shows how to make one on his site.  Some folks wrap it in clear packing tape after cutting one side, but I don't care for messing with tape, unless I need it to prevent burning.

I too drill a pilot hole.  To clamp together I use a couple of 1 inch blocks that are longer than the block with my pattern then clamp these using two 6 inch clamps.  I don't like using tape because I always get sawdust under the tape.  Then have to guess where the cutting line is.  Usually doesn't end well.

Jerry

[Wichman]

2 hours ago, jerry walters said:

One of the issues I had was folding the pattern along the dashed line accurately.  Was always a little off.  Don't remember where I read this tip. but using a straight edge and a xacto knife, score pattern along the dashed line (don't press too hard or you will cut through the pattern), this will give you an accurate fold. 

I use the back of the blade or a "bone folder" unless I have a long pattern ( magic wand  13" long); then I use a small sheet metal brake from HF, I use scissors to cut small slits at the ends of the fold lines, the pattern is face down at this point.

[Dave Monk]

I use hot glue to hold the pieces together after cutting the first side. 

[OCtoolguy]

Without reading all the posts, I'd suggest going on Youtube and searching out Gwinette Woodworkers Guild on that site. There are a few good videos on that site regarding compound or 3-D cutting. It's not difficult but does require having everything lined up correctly. Good luck. It's fun. I did this bowl for my wife using a pattern from John Nelson but with a few changes. The 20 side panels were cut from 3/4" x 1 1/2" mahogany.

 

[BadBob]

20 hours ago, jerry walters said:

One of the issues I had was folding the pattern along the dashed line accurately.  Was always a little off.  Don't remember where I read this tip. but using a straight edge and a xacto knife, score pattern along the dashed line (don't press too hard or you will cut through the pattern), this will give you an accurate fold. 

I was going to post this. I have been using this method for making folds for so long that I can't remember when I started. I use a utility knife and a steel rule. I adjust the position of the rule so the cutting edge on the blade is centered on the mark. I let the weight of the knife do the cut/score. The pattern will fold right on the line. The sharpness of the blade and the type of paper are variables. A new blade may cut through thin paper. If it does cut through you can still use the pattern. I can't remember the last time I cut through the paper.

[don in brooklin on]

21 minutes ago, BadBob said:

I was going to post this. I have been using this method for making folds for so long that I can't remember when I started. I use a utility knife and a steel rule. I adjust the position of the rule so the cutting edge on the blade is centered on the mark. I let the weight of the knife do the cut/score. The pattern will fold right on the line. The sharpness of the blade and the type of paper are variables. A new blade may cut through thin paper. If it does cut through you can still use the pattern. I can't remember the last time I cut through the paper.

I use an X-ACTO knife to cut the pattern along with a steel edge and turn over to score the middle line. 

[TAIrving]

After I cut the first side, I use blue painter's tape on that side to hold the pieces in place while I cut the second side.  

[Farmerdon]

Hans Meier has YouTube videos on 3D cutting..

[OCtoolguy]

2 hours ago, Farmerdon said:

Hans Meier has YouTube videos on 3D cutting..

That's the guy on Guinette site.

[JimNC]

Thank you all for the info.