Poplar

[Tom Gi]

I am getting some poplar logs cut in to 1 inch boards so I am looking at a jet drum sander to take them down to half inch and smooth them off 

any advise on this good bad about a jet drum sander

[rash_powder]

A drum sander is only going to remove a few thousands of an inch at a time.  If you are looking to remove 1/2 inch, or 500 thousandths, you will be pushing a board through that sander for a long time.  There will also be a phenomenal amount of dust generated.  

A planer is what you need for this task.  

[BadBob]

Buy a planer. The DeWalt 735 is probably the best small planer ever made.

[Denny Knappen]

Even though I don't have one, a planner is the way to go.

[Davevand]

Why not just have the board cut at 1/2" instead of 1 inch to start with? I would resaw on a bandsaw first then run the boards thru my planer. A lot less waste and faster.

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, Davevand said:

Why not just have the board cut at 1/2" instead of 1 inch to start with? I would resaw on a bandsaw first then run the boards thru my planer. A lot less waste and faster.

IF he's starting with green lumber then 1" is probably about right.. You'd be amazed at how much lumber shrinks when it dries out.. a 1" green lumber will likely be around 3/4 once dried.. also how it's dried makes a difference Kiln dried or stickered and air dried.... then depending on the type of sawmill ( circle saw or bandsaw) and the runout of the blade on said mill etc.. by the time you get it milled down so the board is smooth you may end up with 1/2 - 5/8 finished lumber.. Of course this depends on how green and what species of lumber you're working with.. in this case poplar does shrink quite a lot..  

[Roberta Moreton]

Definitely start with 1” cut. Sticker and let dry. This CAN take months. After it’s dry you will have to cut off any checks (cracks). Then you can start to plane and sand. 

[Bill WIlson]

If you seal the ends of the boards, you can minimize checking while the boards dry.  There are special products for the purpose, but plain old latex paint will work.

[Joe W.]

On 1/22/2025 at 12:33 PM, Bill WIlson said:

If you seal the ends of the boards, you can minimize checking while the boards dry. . . . 

I have started milling green wood (Beech/Cherry so far) and am using up my old leftover latex paint to seal the ends.
It works.  Sometimes I have to apply a second coat to get a good thick seal, but it definitely does the job.
I've also read heated wax can be used, if you have a lot of that lying around.