Steve Simon Posted January 21 Report Posted January 21 I tried a couple of nameplate patterns. Used the Online nameplate pattern maker. The print out had letters (uppercase and lower case) from one inch to about two inches in height and the space between the letters was quite tight. Tried to drill pilot hole on the interior sections and at different points of the outer line. The holes I am afraid were useless! I am afraid without a drill pressI am at an impasse? I do have a drill guide for drilling plumb but I tried to do it freehand. Not a very good result. Questions, Any suggestion on how to get plumb pilot holes? I think I was using a #3 double reverse blade, but do you think I should have used less? (I am practicing using 3/4 plywood that I have all over my little shop. The interior holes were done very poorly couldn't navigate well at all. I was trying something that requires more skill than I currently have Suggestions for some easier projects? OCtoolguy 1 Quote
OCtoolguy Posted January 21 Report Posted January 21 To start with, get something besides plywood. We all lean toward baltic birch plywood but I'll bey you are trying to use construction grade. Get some poplar and I suggest thinner than 3/4". If there is a cabinet shop near you, check with them for scraps and offcuts. As for drilling, it will be much easier to drill perpendicularly in a softer wood. Practice holding the drill as straight up and down as you can. A drill press is nice, but there will be times when you won't be able to use it, so back to the hand drill. We've all been there. It's a learning curve so just take it slow. Better wood will help a lot. Fish, ChelCass and barb.j.enders 3 Quote
Steve Simon Posted January 21 Author Report Posted January 21 I will checkout the thrift shops for used dressers; I figure the drawer sides and backs are around 1/2" and some older pieces are made of poplar and the like. I looked at Home Depot by me for poplar thin boards and a short boards, less than 3 feet long, 1/4" thick and around 5" wide was $9 in change! I can buy a whole dresser for $20 and scavenge the drawer sides and get a dozen boards... I get it's a "Learning Curve" ChelCass and OCtoolguy 2 Quote
Wichman Posted January 22 Report Posted January 22 Your drill guide, depending on how tight the chuck will go, is a good starting point. You may need to use scrap pieces of wood around the outside of your panel to stabilize the foot of the drill guide. Note that the drill bits, especially the tiny ones, may deflect inside the wood while drilling. I've watched #68 bits deflect before they penetrated the paper, and that's the cobalt alloy ones that I prefer. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Steve Simon Posted January 22 Author Report Posted January 22 Nothing is simple, but I will learn and adapt as best I can OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Denny Knappen Posted January 22 Report Posted January 22 I use a drill press that squares the bit to the table. Letters are hard to cut as everyone can see what they should look like. It does take practice. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
OCtoolguy Posted January 22 Report Posted January 22 19 hours ago, Steve Simon said: I will checkout the thrift shops for used dressers; I figure the drawer sides and backs are around 1/2" and some older pieces are made of poplar and the like. I looked at Home Depot by me for poplar thin boards and a short boards, less than 3 feet long, 1/4" thick and around 5" wide was $9 in change! I can buy a whole dresser for $20 and scavenge the drawer sides and get a dozen boards... I get it's a "Learning Curve" H/D has a section for craft woods. Wood isn't cheap so you are right to find sources but I've never had any luck with used furniture. Let us know what you come up with. danny 1 Quote
Brian A Stepien Posted February 27 Report Posted February 27 Hello guys How can you do the lower case g in Steve goods pattern maker any ideas Thanks Brian Stepien OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Joe W. Posted March 2 Report Posted March 2 On 1/22/2025 at 1:49 PM, OCtoolguy said: I will checkout the thrift shops for used dressers; Along those lines, I have come across a some websites (i.e.; FreeCycle, Facebook, Nextdoor) that have a free section. I've see various furniture listed made with wood. My wife likes to walk the neighborhood and on occasion has made some good finds. The latest was a king size bedframe with the headboard and footboard made of creamy poplar. Also, a couple of our friends, knowing I do woodworking will call us from time to time, letting us know if someone has put something on the side of the road that I might be able to salvage for wood. ChelCass and OCtoolguy 2 Quote
BadBob Posted March 2 Report Posted March 2 I have made many things from reclaimed wood. Futons are great for this, as I get long, straight pieces. OCtoolguy and ChelCass 2 Quote
Mike Crosa Posted March 2 Report Posted March 2 I had the same thought, used furniture from the thrift stores. Went to my local goodwill and found an old dresser. Wow I though solid wood. A deal at $15.00. Took it home and started to dismantle. What a disappointment particle board with a thin laminate of wood. This was a two drawer dresser and I was able to get two drawer fronts. Trying to get the drawer backs, sides and bottom was another disaster. They had been put together with so much glue and staples that I just gave up. That was my last adventure in used furniture. I don't know maybe in the northern areas you can get some deals but down here in Miami, not so much. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
rash_powder Posted March 2 Report Posted March 2 A tip for drilling a 'square' hole with a hand drill. Some drills have a bubble on the back for lining up plumb. If your work surface is true, you've got it. If your drill doesn't, a small square will help. You may have to make one at the table saw to get it small enough but its all the same as long as it is true. Start your hole, and use the square at, say, the 3 o'clock position to check plumb, then carefully move the square to, say, 12 o'clock, and check plumb. Drill a wee bit and repeat. This is how it was done back when a brace was the tool of choice to drill. The important thing is to check for plumb at 90° to each other. With practice, you'll get to where you don't need it much. Also, with the wee little drill bits we use, they bend quite easily. You can not rest the weight of the drill on them or they will go where ever they wish. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Norm Fengstad Posted March 2 Report Posted March 2 I use the Seyco scroller drill works excellent OCtoolguy 1 Quote
BadBob Posted March 3 Report Posted March 3 16 hours ago, Mike Crosa said: I had the same thought, used furniture from the thrift stores. Went to my local goodwill and found an old dresser. Wow I though solid wood. A deal at $15.00. Took it home and started to dismantle. What a disappointment particle board with a thin laminate of wood. This was a two drawer dresser and I was able to get two drawer fronts. Trying to get the drawer backs, sides and bottom was another disaster. They had been put together with so much glue and staples that I just gave up. That was my last adventure in used furniture. I don't know maybe in the northern areas you can get some deals but down here in Miami, not so much. It is very easy to tell if the furniture is made from particle board or MDF by looking at the back edge of the top. The only exception is tables, which do not have a back edge. As for disassembly, if the joint doesn't pop loose easily by whacking it with a dead blow hammer, I cut it apart with a jig saw or reciprocating saw. I can't use the wood in the joint in any case. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
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