Modification to My Hawk

[Scrappile]

Still getting used to the Hawk saw I purchased in December.  I like simple.  One of the things on the Hawk that I kept looking at and could not see why it was done the way it was done is the tensioning.  Hegner is so simple, so stable, and straightforward.   I love how it works.  So after thinking about it, I made a simple modification to the Hawk.  I set my tension by the feel and sound of the blade.  It is just natural for me.  I think the engineer that designed Hawk's really went overboard.  Keep in mind this is just me, hundreds of Hawk owners like the way it is designed.  I went for the clunky: to simple knob.  Reach back a adjust the tension by turning the little knob.  Seems to work very well, smooth and simple.   Not sure if it will hurt anything, time will tell.

 

[kmmcrafts]

Hmm, well that's just dumb.. now when you break a blade there is no lever at the back that pops up out of place that makes you get up off the chair so you can reach back and pop it back over into place.

Great idea really.. as far as I know the lever action one has always been the design they have used and you're right.. it's over engineered and no reason i can see as to why it's like that.. other than years ago that's how they described how to tension the blade properly.. which was always way off from what they say on the sticker anyway.. at least for me on my saws..

IF you haven't maybe you should post that on the FB Hawk Group.. maybe Bushton will get the hint that we don't like that lever popping up out of place when a blade breaks..

BTW, I looked at a Hawk for sale once where they just threaded a nut on that rod.. I just assumed they lost the actual lever and too cheap to replace it.. now making me wonder if maybe someone did that on purpose

I will say if your front tension cam isn't adjusted properly and or worn out that it'll make that lever pop up and not hold the blade correctly.. not sure if the knob would keep it on tension better or not..That's usually how I learn that I need to adjust that little set screw underneath the upper arm at the front of the saw..

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I can not say if that  is a good idea or not. I am one of those that never touch that cam lever once I had it set. Never seen a need to. My tension is set up front with the blade lever. Now if I use thin blades I adjust the position in the clamps just a tad. That is all it takes to release some tension. Been doing that ever since I owned the saws. Works for me. Good luck with your idea. Hope it does what you are looking for. 

[Scrappile]

@JTTHECLOCKMAN It does.  Like I said I like simple.  The tensioning on the Hawk, just too many clanky things that do not need to be.  In my opinion.  But I like the saw, not sorry I got it.  And will adjust it to my needs.  Been using it a lot lately.  Got to find a better knob for the upper clamp that does not give me wrist pains to use it.  Enjoy the conversation with you.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I have seen many people take the clamp and trace it on a small block of wood and either cut it out or use a Dremel tool to carve it out. Then they cut it in a circle on the outside. I also seen some actually cut slots in the edge of circle to get some tact. I believe I think I seen Steve Good have a pattern. Seen it somewhere. Memory is not what it use to be. Now what was I doing?

[Scrappile]

Been there, done that.  It was better but not want.

[MarieC]

@kmmcrafts Kevin, As you may know already I am a rookie when it comes to the scrollsaws in need of repair......So, when you say "I will say if your front tension cam isn't adjusted properly and or worn out that it'll make that lever pop up and not hold the blade correctly" I am unsure what the front tension cam is.  I have the Hawk G4 26  could you take a picture of what that looks like.  I got my Hawk used so I do not have a manual to look at.   My back knob pops up once in a while so was wondering why it is doing that....thank you.

[MarieC]

Paul, I will have to see how that works when I come over to see you and Patti....

[kmmcrafts]

2 hours ago, MarieC said:

@kmmcrafts Kevin, As you may know already I am a rookie when it comes to the scrollsaws in need of repair......So, when you say "I will say if your front tension cam isn't adjusted properly and or worn out that it'll make that lever pop up and not hold the blade correctly" I am unsure what the front tension cam is.  I have the Hawk G4 26  could you take a picture of what that looks like.  I got my Hawk used so I do not have a manual to look at.   My back knob pops up once in a while so was wondering why it is doing that....thank you.

Front tension cam has a set screw to adjust the tension lever on the upper arm. It’s a very small Allen screw directly on the bottom side of the upper arm right below where the tension lever goes into the arm. You adjust the set screw without a blade in you move the front tension lever as if you’re tensioning a blade and adjusted correctly you should feel some resistance about 1/8” - 1/4” before it is fully in the tensioned position. You should also have a small hole in the top or some saws have it on the side of the arm near that lever to place a drop of oil to lubricate the cam so you don’t wear the screw or ensentric out. If you can’t get it to have the resistance then you need to either replace the set screw or the encentric or both.

 

Flip lever over and kinda let it flop over on its own. Should stop before hitting the arm and being all the way n tension position. 

 

This shows after I pushed it down the rest of the way.

See the hole on top where I oil mine. As said before some have hole on the side instead. 

 

This is under the arm where the set screw is. 

 

Edited April 4 by kmmcrafts

[Scrappile]

@kmmcrafts just checked mine, It took a 3/32 allen.

[MarieC]

Wow, Kevin, thanks so much....I will need to read this a couple of times through just to get all that you said....I think I get it....thanks again!

[kmmcrafts]

53 minutes ago, MarieC said:

Wow, Kevin, thanks so much....I will need to read this a couple of times through just to get all that you said....I think I get it....thanks again!

After that is adjusted correctly and if you still have issue with the lever at the back popping up.. You may need to replace the wedge shape thing underneath the lever at the back of the saw. That wedge should be pointed and not sharp like to cut you but it should be fairly sharp pointed.. You can just use a piece of fine sandpaper on a flat surface and sand the flat edges to make it sharp.. just be sure to sand both sides of it somewhat evenly..

[Hawk]

This topic is quite enlightening....thanks everyone, gives me a better understanding of my Hawk 

[Scrappile]

Along these lines, I broke down yesterday morning and made a knob for the upper clamp of my Hawk.  I made one earlier but it was not comfortable.  For this one, I fired up my lathe and did it correctly.  Just the size I wanted and turned the original knob down so I could get a nice press fit into the wooden knob.  Used it all day yesterday and it worked very well.

 

Edited Sunday at 04:25 PM by Scrappile

[rjweb]

Paul, glad to see it is working well for you, that work on the saw looks very interesting and hard, RJ

[OCtoolguy]

No vibration?

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I knew you could do it. As I said now cut a bunch of slots in it with scrollsaw to give it that Knurled look and feel. 

[Scrappile]

Well my Hawk like every scroll saw I have owned,  vibrates at some speeds, I think is more of a product of my cement floor than the saws.

[MarieC]

Kevin @kmmcrafts,  I did what you said with the allen wrench and oiling it and it worked....now time will tell.  I will check the sharpness of the trangular shaped thing in the back....Thanks again for the tip...so glad you are part of the village!

[kmmcrafts]

 

 

11 hours ago, MarieC said:

Kevin @kmmcrafts,  I did what you said with the allen wrench and oiling it and it worked....now time will tell.  I will check the sharpness of the trangular shaped thing in the back....Thanks again for the tip...so glad you are part of the village!

I'm happy to help the village folks any time I can.. I'm glad the tips helped as having a properly tuned saw just makes the scrolling that much more fun to do. 

I think I remember you saying you didn't get a manual with your saw... They are available online through Bushtons website.. Here is the one for the G4 which I think is what you have if memory serves correct. http://www.hawkwoodworkingtools.com/files/SawManuals/manual_G426.pdf

[MarieC]

14 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

 

 

I'm happy to help the village folks any time I can.. I'm glad the tips helped as having a properly tuned saw just makes the scrolling that much more fun to do. 

I think I remember you saying you didn't get a manual with your saw... They are available online through Bushtons website.. Here is the one for the G4 which I think is what you have if memory serves correct. http://www.hawkwoodworkingtools.com/files/SawManuals/manual_G426.pdf

Thank you!  Yes you are correct regarding the saw that I have.  Thanks again