A Little Something for the Bottom Feeder

[Scrappile]

I just wanted to share something that has helped me over the years.  Being a bottom feeder, this works very well.  Several years ago, I somehow acquired a spring-loaded nail set/punch.  I have been using it for years to counter dent the holes on the bottom of a piece I am working on, so it is easier to find the hole and feed the blade into it.  It actually works so well that often, I do not need to raise the piece high enough to see the hole.  I can do it by feel.  I have worn the punch out, so today I ordered a couple more.  Here is a picture of the nail set and the nice indent it makes when used on a hole.

 

[OCtoolguy]

When I first got interested in scrolling, I took a class from a guy who got me into marquetry. He suggested to all of us to get the tiny countersink bit that Dremel has and use it to countersink the holes. I have been doing that ever since. It works with very little pressure on the wood. I would think that you take a chance of poking the point clear through the 1/8" BB.

 

[Scrappile]

33 minutes ago, OCtoolguy said:

When I first got interested in scrolling, I took a class from a guy who got me into marquetry. He suggested to all of us to get the tiny countersink bit that Dremel has and use it to countersink the holes. I have been doing that ever since. It works with very little pressure on the wood. I would think that you take a chance of poking the point clear through the 1/8" BB.

 

Good point. I do not think I have ever used it on that thin of wood. You can adjust the punch.   But something to keep in mind.   The problem I am having is that the BB I have been able to purchase anymore is so poor that when drilling, I have not been able to get a clean exit hole, even though I use all the techniques I know to prevent it.  There is a bad tear out on the bottom side.  I have quit buying BB in full sheet (5'x 5' because it is so poor.  Purchased from well-known (on here) sellers in smaller pieces, and it is still poor quality.  I do not blame them because it is not their fault; they get the best they can.  I have been thinking of trying some other than the Russian. Nothing against Russia; remember if is not for them. We may not have won WWII; people seem to forget that.  Costs more but may be better.  Maybe purchase Marine plywood.

[OCtoolguy]

46 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

Good point. I do not think I have ever used it on that thin of wood. You can adjust the punch.   But something to keep in mind.   The problem I am having is that the BB I have been able to purchase anymore is so poor that when drilling, I have not been able to get a clean exit hole, even though I use all the techniques I know to prevent it.  There is a bad tear out on the bottom side.  I have quit buying BB in full sheet (5'x 5' because it is so poor.  Purchased from well-known (on here) sellers in smaller pieces, and it is still poor quality.  I do not blame them because it is not their fault; they get the best they can.  I have been thinking of trying some other than the Russian. Nothing against Russia; remember if is not for them. We may not have won WWII; people seem to forget that.  Costs more but may be better.  Maybe purchase Marine plywood.

Have you bought any from Cherokee? I bought some 24 x 24 in pieces both 1/8 and 1/4 and it seems to be good. I have used it all to make tissue box covers and I've had good luck. My only problem is my table saw can't seem to cut anything perfectly square. I fight that a lot. Not like my old Unisaw for sure. That thing was dead on.

 

[Millwab]

Instead of a nail set, before I start cutting I’ll use an awl to enlarge the exit hole from the drill bit. It cleans up any tear out there might be and gives me a better target to thread the blade through.

[Wichman]

I use a needle awl ( 1/16" shaft, from an xacto knife set ), a bead reamer, or a bead reamer Dremel bit depending on the project and how many holes there are. I'm using the needle awl on the current project, 1/16" basswood with #71 holes  ( .026" ).

[Bill WIlson]

An awl works great for me.

[Scrappile]

I also use this metal scriber. 

[Denny Knappen]

Good point! Pun intended.  I am a top feeder.

[Jim McDonald]

I carried a punch like that back when I was running rescue. Works great for popping tempered glass in vehicles to gain access.

Wonder what ever happened to it?

[Scrappile]

2 hours ago, Jim McDonald said:

I carried a punch like that back when I was running rescue. Works great for popping tempered glass in vehicles to gain access.

Wonder what ever happened to it?

Interesting, I would not think they pack that much punch!   

[OCtoolguy]

2 hours ago, Scrappile said:

Interesting, I would not think they pack that much punch!   

Tempered glass breaks easily if struck just right. A sharp hard point is all it takes.

[joel brinker]

On 3/16/2025 at 7:17 PM, Millwab said:

Instead of a nail set, before I start cutting I’ll use an awl to enlarge the exit hole from the drill bit. It cleans up any tear out there might be and gives me a better target to thread the blade through.

I use the same thing, a meatal scratch awl. Works nice on all woods no matter the thickness

[BadBob]

This type of punch can generate up to 82,000 psi at the tip. This is because all of the force is concentrated in a tiny area. I looked it up.

[Scrappile]

2 hours ago, BadBob said:

This type of punch can generate up to 82,000 psi at the tip. This is because all of the force is concentrated in a tiny area. I looked it up.

Thanks, @BadBob. I just read your response about learning something new every day.  You just taught me something I did not know.   You would think that would punch right through the wood but it does not. 

Edited 1 hour ago by Scrappile