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Switching from Spiral to Flat Reverse Blades


kcortese

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Hi everyone! Hope your day is going good.

 

I started out learning and using spiral blades for several years now.

 

I received some Flying Dutchman flat reverse toothed blades yesterday.

 

I now have to teach myself a whole new way of scrolling. I had no idea it would be so hard.

 

I had a few scraps of wood strips to practice on. I scrolled out some "welcome" letters for a future sign. The edges are much cleaner with the reverse tooth, I didn't have to clean up any feathering. YEEEHAAAA!!!!

 

The letters measure 1/2" x 3/4". Figured to start off small with a higher difficulty level, then it will be easier when I scroll a larger area. I know this first attempt isn't perfect but I will get better in time. I didn't do any clean up with this piece.

 

This morning I ordered some reverse spirals in case I get too frustrated turning and turning my work. I don't have to turn the whole piece with spirals.

 

I need to do some more scrolling today to gain more experience with the strait flat blades.

 

Did anyone else have a hard time switching over?

 

Thanks for viewing.

 

Karen

post-2361-0-04939500-1360418681_thumb.jpg

Edited by kcortese
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I started with "flat blades" then a customer asked for a picture of their dogs, at which time I switched to the spirals and because I mainly do pictures I continue using spirals most of the time...however that being said I have found that even with pictures there are times that spirals do not work very well like the Indian skull I have on the saw now, so like yourself I have had to retrain myself on the use of "flat blades" and at times it "aint been pretty."

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If you're really used to using spirals, it'll take time to learn flat blades. It certainly is a different approach. But, once you learn, you'll love it. Then you'll have options when approaching a project. You can choose the technique based on what you want to accomplish.

 

Keep with it. The rewards will outweigh the frustrations. ;)

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I'm getting the hang of the flat Reverse Toothed Flying Dutchman blades. I only broke 2 so far because I pushed the work instead of letting the blade cut. I am scrolling out some letters today for signs (no wood for signs, but I'll have lettering done).

 

It is such a relief not sanding and cleaning up edges.

 

I also learned from this forum to use spray adhesive for application of the patterns to the wood. The paper peels off clean. I want to thank everyone here for all the helpful tips and tricks for us beginners.

 

My spiral reverse blades should be here in a few days, then I'll scroll some detailed designs.

 

Later.

 

Karen

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Hi Karen, if you can use the spirals God Bless You Girl. Them things have a mind of their own. I use most all hardwoods and spirals want to travel in the soft grain instead of following the lines. I mostly cut 5/8" hardwoods such as redoak,hickory and maple with a lot of 3/4" also. I use the FD-UR #7 for intricate work and I also use Olson PGT blades for the less intricate work. Steve

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I have tried spirals, and I find they feather way too much for my liking, and I don't like trying to control them. Unlike most others, I'm an Olson guy all the way. I cut mainly 3/8' thick oak, maple, cherry, and ash. I pretty much use the #2/0 scroll reverse blades, and every once in a while I use a #2r if ti's larger cut outs, but I love how glass smooth and crisp corners I can get with the $2/0 blades. Never broken one myself yet.

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I want to thank all of you for the very helpful advise I'm getting here. I will use all the tips and advise given.

 

I have plenty of Reverse Tooth, Flying Dutchman blades, Flats and Spirals.

 

I am currently scrolling some patterns. I find it difficult with the straight blades (believe it or not). But I love the crisp clean edge. I will continue to practice with the straight reverse blades. Eventually I'll get the hang of them.

 

I am scrolling a pattern today with the reverse tooth spirals, when finished I'm hoping I won't have too much clean up.

 

When I finish it, I will post a pic of the RV SP work before the cleanup.

 

I didn't put any painters tape on the wood, next time I'm out and about, I'll buy some wide green painters tape. I was spraying the back of the design and rubbing onto the wood. I peals off clean.

 

I used the rubber cement, and stupidly applied it directly to the wood and paper. What a mistake! I had a hell of a time cleaning it up after removing the pattern paper. I'll never do that again.

 

Here is a pic of a buck I did yesterday, I used both #1 RV FLat, and #1 Spiral RV.

post-2361-0-62471800-1361114265_thumb.jpg

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There are many of us out here that do not do fretwork. I tried spiral blades on thicker woods and found I was spending as much time sanding as I was cutting so I stopped using spirals at all. Gave mine away. I do not use reverse blades either. (Yes, I tried them also) I use FD Polar blades and NEVER sand the cut. Sanding would ruin the smooth burnished cuts I get. If I ever do start to do fretwork I would try reverse blades and spirals I suppose.

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  • 8 months later...

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