Switching from Spiral to Flat Reverse Blades

[kcortese]

Hi everyone! Hope your day is going good.

 

I started out learning and using spiral blades for several years now.

 

I received some Flying Dutchman flat reverse toothed blades yesterday.

 

I now have to teach myself a whole new way of scrolling. I had no idea it would be so hard.

 

I had a few scraps of wood strips to practice on. I scrolled out some "welcome" letters for a future sign. The edges are much cleaner with the reverse tooth, I didn't have to clean up any feathering. YEEEHAAAA!!!!

 

The letters measure 1/2" x 3/4". Figured to start off small with a higher difficulty level, then it will be easier when I scroll a larger area. I know this first attempt isn't perfect but I will get better in time. I didn't do any clean up with this piece.

 

This morning I ordered some reverse spirals in case I get too frustrated turning and turning my work. I don't have to turn the whole piece with spirals.

 

I need to do some more scrolling today to gain more experience with the strait flat blades.

 

Did anyone else have a hard time switching over?

 

Thanks for viewing.

 

Karen

Edited February 9, 2013 by kcortese

[gator]

well i learned on the straight blades and then spiral. if i am cutting a picture i use the spirals. pictures usually have no straight corner.. for all other cuttings #3 r tooth is the way we roll here. and the biggest key is mikes flying dutchman blades.

[Clayton717]

I prefer to use reverse tooth flat blades. I can get a straighter cut and sharper corners. I only use spirals for larger cuttings where I don't have room to turn the whole piece. But still prefer te regular flat blades.I use flying Dutchman blades for both flat and spiral.

[don in brooklin on]

I use the FD Ultra reverse on most cuttings. I love them when cutting signs etc as you usually don't have to sand at all.

 

I did a detailed plaque recently and used FD UR #1 and I was really happy.

 

Don

[papabrett2011]

Spirals definitely have their place as mentioned above, however your right the straights make the work look a lot cleaner and they cut a lot faster and are easier to control, but for those fragile portraits and scenics, you can't beat the spiral blades.

[jerrybritner]

I started with "flat blades" then a customer asked for a picture of their dogs, at which time I switched to the spirals and because I mainly do pictures I continue using spirals most of the time...however that being said I have found that even with pictures there are times that spirals do not work very well like the Indian skull I have on the saw now, so like yourself I have had to retrain myself on the use of "flat blades" and at times it "aint been pretty."

[crupiea]

I cant figure out the spirals. i am a flat blade guy all the way.

[Travis]

If you're really used to using spirals, it'll take time to learn flat blades. It certainly is a different approach. But, once you learn, you'll love it. Then you'll have options when approaching a project. You can choose the technique based on what you want to accomplish.

 

Keep with it. The rewards will outweigh the frustrations.

[kcortese]

I'm getting the hang of the flat Reverse Toothed Flying Dutchman blades. I only broke 2 so far because I pushed the work instead of letting the blade cut. I am scrolling out some letters today for signs (no wood for signs, but I'll have lettering done).

 

It is such a relief not sanding and cleaning up edges.

 

I also learned from this forum to use spray adhesive for application of the patterns to the wood. The paper peels off clean. I want to thank everyone here for all the helpful tips and tricks for us beginners.

 

My spiral reverse blades should be here in a few days, then I'll scroll some detailed designs.

 

Later.

 

Karen

[steviegwood]

Hi Karen, if you can use the spirals God Bless You Girl. Them things have a mind of their own. I use most all hardwoods and spirals want to travel in the soft grain instead of following the lines. I mostly cut 5/8" hardwoods such as redoak,hickory and maple with a lot of 3/4" also. I use the FD-UR #7 for intricate work and I also use Olson PGT blades for the less intricate work. Steve

[papabrett2011]

Spray adhesive is great, but I also use the green painters tape as well. I cover the piece with the green tape then spray and apply my pattern, makes for much easier clean up, don't have to use mineral spirits. Also hear rubber cement is good too, have not tried that yet.

[WolfmoonCT]

I have tried spirals, and I find they feather way too much for my liking, and I don't like trying to control them. Unlike most others, I'm an Olson guy all the way. I cut mainly 3/8' thick oak, maple, cherry, and ash. I pretty much use the #2/0 scroll reverse blades, and every once in a while I use a #2r if ti's larger cut outs, but I love how glass smooth and crisp corners I can get with the $2/0 blades. Never broken one myself yet.

[sullyscroller]

The fdur's are the best blades on the market and mike is the man to get them from. I can't use spirals ,my mind don't work that way LOL

 

sully

[kcortese]

I want to thank all of you for the very helpful advise I'm getting here. I will use all the tips and advise given.

 

I have plenty of Reverse Tooth, Flying Dutchman blades, Flats and Spirals.

 

I am currently scrolling some patterns. I find it difficult with the straight blades (believe it or not). But I love the crisp clean edge. I will continue to practice with the straight reverse blades. Eventually I'll get the hang of them.

 

I am scrolling a pattern today with the reverse tooth spirals, when finished I'm hoping I won't have too much clean up.

 

When I finish it, I will post a pic of the RV SP work before the cleanup.

 

I didn't put any painters tape on the wood, next time I'm out and about, I'll buy some wide green painters tape. I was spraying the back of the design and rubbing onto the wood. I peals off clean.

 

I used the rubber cement, and stupidly applied it directly to the wood and paper. What a mistake! I had a hell of a time cleaning it up after removing the pattern paper. I'll never do that again.

 

Here is a pic of a buck I did yesterday, I used both #1 RV FLat, and #1 Spiral RV.

[Jim Finn]

There are many of us out here that do not do fretwork. I tried spiral blades on thicker woods and found I was spending as much time sanding as I was cutting so I stopped using spirals at all. Gave mine away. I do not use reverse blades either. (Yes, I tried them also) I use FD Polar blades and NEVER sand the cut. Sanding would ruin the smooth burnished cuts I get. If I ever do start to do fretwork I would try reverse blades and spirals I suppose.

[amazingkevin]

YOU HAVE DONE THE OPPOSITE OF EVRYONE I KNOW USEING SPIRALS FIRST.GO GIRL