Travis Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Here's a fun game we can play. The rules are easy: Post your favorite scroll saw tip. Click "Like" on your favorite 3 tips in this thread. I bet we can put together an amazing list of clever and useful tips. Ready? Set? Go! wombatie and Phantom Scroller 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick@tinkers-cove Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Whe stack cutting, make sure that the end of the tape (joining the pieces together) is actually on the top rather than underneath. This way, you can easily spin or turn your piece faster and smoother, without the edges of the tape curling up and sticking to the saw plate. tracyguy, artmill and wombatie 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wombatie Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 When finishing, if doing it for the first time, do it on a piece of scrap that way if it does not work out to well you have not ruined the piece you have just worked so hard on. Marg keefie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wombatie Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 If you are working on a difficult piece start with the hardest part because if it breaks beyond repair you have not been cutting for hours before it breaks. Marg Nick@tinkers-cove, Jim Finn, Huntter2022 and 6 others 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick@tinkers-cove Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Inner sanding made easy...take 2 lolly (popsicle) sticks, and glue them either side of an old blade. Then wrap fine grade sandpaper around and glue it to the sticks. Fasten into the saw and...instant thin sanding blade. Clozy, tracyguy, wombatie and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick@tinkers-cove Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) I know I don't need to post 3 (just like 3) but this is probably my favourite...I'm sure you all already know this one though - after drilling all if the pilot holes, use a dremel drill with a diamond cutting cone bit and re-drill the holes slightly from the back (just enough to widen them) ensuring easy blade threading, when you're unable to see the holes. Edited July 11, 2013 by Nick@tinkers-cove campasano, Robert Phillips, wombatie and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChelCass Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 When trying to remove a stuborn pattern that has been glued to the wood, simply put into microwave and nuke for 10-15 seconds and pattern will peel off no problems!! Then wash with mineral spirits to remove any glue residue. Clozy, artmill, Huntter2022 and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Scroller Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Stick a magnetic strip on the side of you scrollsaw to put you blades on when you swop them over saves trying to find them. Roly KurtP, Nick@tinkers-cove, wombatie and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvin Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Join a good scrollsaw forum. Works for me. Second would be to watch utube videos on using the scrollsaw. campasano, sullyscroller, wombatie and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Scroller Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Use WD40 Specialist Silicon spray on the saw tops it's a waterproof fast drying silicone lubricant formulated for high pressure performance. Eliminates sticking and binding and prevents rust and corrosion. I use it on all my tools it's great stuff. Roly sullyscroller 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sullyscroller Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 File,sand,or grind a point to the end of your blade to make "hitting" the hole easier. sully wombatie and amazingkevin 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Finn Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 If the throat of your saw is not enough you can twist the blade 90 degrees and cut from the side of the saw and have an unlimited "throat" Nick@tinkers-cove, artmill, smitty0312 and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wombatie Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 Keep an old blade handy to push through the hole, easy way of finding the hole you are about to thread the blade into. Marg smitty0312, Phantom Scroller, campasano and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sullyscroller Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 When your air bellows fails on your saw and they all do eventually ,a quik fix is to use a small aquarium pump with the tube hooked to your saw. Mine has been this way for 2 years on my skil backup/primary saw now.Works great. sully Phantom Scroller, amazingkevin, artmill and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sullyscroller Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 A inexpensive air filter is to use a boxfan with a cheap air conditioning filter adapted to fit. the better the filter the more dust that will be removed.You can move the fan where you need it and when it gets dirty you can take it outside and blow it out with a air comp. sully amazingkevin, Fab4, Travis and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 do the eyes first on portraits .if the eyes are not right the portrait is worthless and you won't waste anymore time. macfil20, Phantom Scroller, sullyscroller and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 keep you blade tightening screw clean and lubed.you use it much more that the bottom one and it wears out first. sullyscroller, Phantom Scroller, Nick@tinkers-cove and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 Use scrap or waste boards under your pattern when drilling holes for fret work to minimize or elminate tear out from drill bit exiting your work piece and then sand the underside with 180 grit or larger to remove any bumps left by drill bit exiting to assure smooth movement on scroll saw table while sawing. artmill, sullyscroller, wombatie and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clayton717 Posted July 13, 2013 Report Share Posted July 13, 2013 after I finish cutting something and there are some "fuzzies" on the back, I use my propane torch lightly and burn them off. Especially when the cutting is delicate and might break from sanding. Travis, artmill, MrsN and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danny Posted July 13, 2013 Report Share Posted July 13, 2013 The post of using a dremble for enlarging the holes on the back is much easier and faster if you just keep a AWL handy. That spelling looks wrong. Its a hand tool that has a very pointed tip. LOL Danny :+} Phantom Scroller 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted July 14, 2013 Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 On the DeWalt and Excalibur scroll saws the speed control knob is not well marked - adjust the speed to your most frequently used speed and then draw a line on the speed control knob with fingernail polish or some other marker which is straight on with the upper arm. You will always be able to quickly return to your favorite speed and can then adjust speed up or down from that spot. On the Excalibur, adjust the upper arm so it is perfectly parallel with the table top and then do the same marking on the arm adjustment knob at the back of the saw so when the arm starts creeping down you can tell at a glance and rapidly correct it. I also cut a piece of wood to the correct height to slide under the arm and along the table which can be a double check for parallel. Phantom Scroller, wombatie, Huntter2022 and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted July 14, 2013 Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 glue formica on your saw to slide the wood on ,no messin around with waxes or lubes,looks nice too instead of cold metal.mikie likes it! Phantom Scroller 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sullyscroller Posted July 14, 2013 Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 On my planer "dewalt" I wax the bed with a hard wax like ski wax or ice skate blade wax. cuts the friction down a bunch when rough planeing. sully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 (edited) If you are a passionate scroller and in a relationship, encourage your spouse/partner/significant other to be tolerant and understanding of your disease and occasionally remind him/her that scrolling keeps you off of the streets and out of the bars/pubs. Edited July 15, 2013 by Doug courdorygirl, Nick@tinkers-cove, KurtP and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smitty0312 Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 I recommend a foot pedal switch, this allows you to keep both hands on your work when starting and stopping, you can pick one up at Harbor freight for $15. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=foot+switch WolfmoonCT 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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