RipCat Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 After a bit of a false start, actually managed to get some pics uploaded.. in particular where I put my blade storage tubes. Hope this is the correct URL: www.scrollsawvillage.com/gallery/index.php?cat=11912 cheers Rippy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 I really like your segmentation. Especially the airbrush experiment. Did you use regular acrylic? Or did you use stain? I use to airbrush a lot in highschool. I'd love to get the system up and going again. The leapord is awesome too. Very nice work. Thanks for sharing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipCat Posted June 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Thanks Travis. Always a bit scary showing people my stuff... anyway re airbrushing, yeah it's something I used to do a lot of years ago, but a bit rusty at it now! I actually used ink on the chimp, to see. I really wanted intensity of colour. Being crappy radiata pine though the ink didn't 'stain' the wood well at all, and just sat on the surface, hence blue fingers. Had to liberally coat with varnish to stop it coming off; not too fussed though, was a good experiment. I've since found inks specifically designed to work for wood at . They also make the best finishing waxes I've ever used! No more varnishes for me! The Shellawax is just incredible... I don't normally gush about products, but it really is fantastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 LOL...you know, I just suggested india inks for a project. It didn't even dawn on me to use colored inks. Great way for the color to sink into the wood without covering the grain. I've been wanting to try leather dyes. Chrestensen Burghout Designs often uses leather dyes to color their projects. I really like the vibrant colors. I bet that would go nicely through an airbrush. Hrmmm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AirNationalGuardMom Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Excellent cuttings Ripcat. Linda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry5180 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Loved looking at your album Ripcat. Some really nice work in there. I've been using Shellawax on my lathe for pen turnings and it really is fantastic. How are you applying it on your cuttings, or are you just using it on the intarsia pieces? Their other products are also terrific and I recommend them as well. Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipCat Posted June 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 Many thanks Linda and Barry for your comments! Barry, re Shellawax... I've only used it so far on the segmentation and intarsia projects. Got a few new ones I haven't put pics up for yet. It's just a terrific finish. I don't have/use a lathe, instead I use the Dremel rotary tool, with the polishing pads, for the eee-wax and the shellawax. I also use the swansdown buffing thing from U-Beaut, to finish off the eee-wax stage, before applying the shellawax. I really want to try these waxes on the fretwork, but I think the only way would be to apply the finish before cutting, since there's no way I can think of to apply the shellawax with enough pressure/force to generate the heat needed, after cutting. Open to suggestions and ideas from anyone!!!! I'm hoping it works to apply beforehand, cos I really don't like the spray on, or brush on finishes on the fretwork... makes them look cheap n nasty, lol, and plastic-y (is that a word?). I've tried a variety of oils and mixtures, but not been happy with the results. Linseed oil in particular I thought would do the trick, but it discolours the wood too much, and doesn't produce that beautiful 'glow' I'm after. Looking at buying a lathe soon too... any recommendations??? Never used one before. cheers Rippy aka Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipCat Posted June 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 Travis... the chimp came from Christensen Burghout Designs, and is where I got the idea for the inks. Leather dye inks are impossible to find here, which is why I ended up using some old airbrush ink. I haven't tried out the special wood inks I got from U-Beaut yet, but they have that richness & purity of colour I think you may be after, and apparently can be easily mixed, diluted, or whatever. Check out the U-Beaut site... they've got some good pics of what the inks look like. They were originally developed for wood turning applications I think, but I can't see why airbrushing, or different apps. wouldn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry5180 Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 Simon, I'm not sure where you're located, but I got my lathe from Penn State Industries (PSI). They have complete starter packages as well as just the lathe by itself. Their customer service is terrific and stuff ships when they say it will. I purchased mine as a starter kit. Came with lathe, three chisels, shellawax, adhesive, barrell trimmer, and enough pen blanks and kits to make 5 complete pen and pencil sets. This was a basic starter kit, you can get some with even more stuff depending on your budget. You can check them out at http://www.pennstateind.com/ I really want to try these waxes on the fretwork, but I think the only way would be to apply the finish before cutting, since there's no way I can think of to apply the shellawax with enough pressure/force to generate the heat needed, after cutting I'm going to have to think on this. The biggest problem I see is not so much being able to generate the heat, but making sure the applicator doesn't catch on an exposed edge and rip it off the cutting. I could put a large spindle on the lathe between centers but what material to use on the spindle to act as a buff? On less delicate fretwork pieces I would think a buff on a drill would work. Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadylady0447 Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 Nice work in your album Simon. The leopard is beautiful. I like the dragon...it looks very fragile in places...a challenging cutting. Thanks for showing us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipCat Posted July 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 Thanks for the info Barry... I'm Oz tho, will have to investigate here too, but the site u pointed me too was a good start from an educational point of view (knowing nothing about lathes). Thanks to everybody else again too for you kind comments and support! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.