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Blade Choice.... :+}


danny

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What might be the Blade of Choice for cutting Compound Patterns where the wood is 2 inches thick.

Soft Wood ????

Hard Wood ????

 

Some patterns are less than my stated 2 inches, but just used this as a reference point. 

 

Thanks in Advance to any who offer there 2 cents...................Danny  :+}

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I'm kind of wondering that same thing, Danny. I am leaning toward a number  7 skip tooth because it is important that the blade be stout so that it doesn't wander during the cut. If it does, then the part resting against the table will not be true to the pattern on the other side. I believe this would be true especially in hard wood where the harder wood grain could cause a smaller blade to go off course as it follows the easier path of resistance. I will return and check out what others post about this and together we can learn the real truth to this question.

 

Dick

 

heppnerguy

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If softwood ie pine or basswood, I like using the FD ultra reverse 5 or 7 depending on thickness. Gives a real fine finish.

 

For hardwood, I have been using the Polar Blades #5 and #7.  It is slow going no matter what you use.

 

I am working on a couple of Sue Mey's designs. (A bird house and a light post) and her recommendation is a #9 skip tooth.

 

Don

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...For hardwood, I have been using the Polar Blades #5 and #7.  It is slow going no matter what you use...

 

 

...Don...

I use these blades and it is slow going.  When I first bought a scroll saw to cut 1 1/2" thick fir for toys I found it a LOT slower than the band saw I had been using to cut them.  The scroll saw left a perfectly smooth cut, unlike the band saw.  I no longer had to sand the cut edge and for this reason ,in the end ,the scroll saw was quicker and easier to use.

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