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Posted

Anyone try using spray glue to put 1/8" plexiglass on your scrollsaw table? It will make the table much smoother but take a little blade depth away.

Think it would be worth a try? I don;t remember where I saw this..

Posted

I once made an overlayed plywood table that slid into place and was easy to remove..It worked OK but wasn't worth the effort to me so I abandon it. I wanted to raise the table area in hopes of cutting with a different part of my blades thus getting a longer blade life..Like I said before, it wasn't worth it to me. .

I have seen where other people have waxed the top of the saw or sprayed something on it to make it easier to slide their work on it. I have never felt a need to that myself, The table seems to work great for me.

Posted

I use a piece of formica spray glued  on .it cleans very good and is very slippery with wood on it.been using it for years ,same piece.I would not like to go back to metal tops again ,no benefit in that. :)

 

Kevin that is a good idea I had forgotten about formica I used to use that on table tops back in the 70's and get high on evostick glue.  :lol:

 

Roly

Posted

Formica is an even better idea. Where could I get that? Menards,Lowes?

 

I made a router table a couple years ago and picked up Formica at HD. But I had to purchase a whole sheet - 8 feet. I have lots left in the garage, I think I'll try some on the scroll saw.

Posted

"......  I wanted to raise the table area in hopes of cutting with a different part of my blades thus getting a longer blade life....."

 

To achieve this longer blade life I cut  3/4" off the bottom of my worn blades and reinstall and use them this way.  I use standard Polar blades so loosing the teeth at the bottom does not effect my cut.  My saws will work with these shorter blades.  Not sure all saws will though.

Posted

I like the Formica idea and I happen to have a couple of large pieces sitting in my warehouse that I just did not have the heart to throw out just knowing that someday I would have a use for it.  It has only been there for 10+ years. :)

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I tried cutting a accessory table top for my saw out of 1/4 " masonite. I drilled holes on the underside for magnets. It worked well until the masonite started to warp a bit. Now, it has enough uplift that it pulls away from the saw. I think I'll try the 1/8" lexan or plexiglass method. I like the sound of that. I don't want to glue anything down to the table but may have to resort to that if my idea doesn't work out. Great info here on this forum. Thanks all,

 

Ray

Posted

Some sendoff and teflon coat ,some have plated with plexiglas ,some have installed formica .all must have been prefectly done

no voids or bubbles or sharp edges ,but few brag about the improvements ,makes me wonder ,I just keep mine clean and waxed till the rave reviews come in .

Posted

It's very thin and you don't lose  but one tooth  on a blade having it on the table. :)

 

* But Kevin, that would depend on the number of teeth on the blade.

 A sheet of wax paper might cause a lose of two teeth on some blades and none on others.

* Point two ... Babies lose teeth :D

* if you don't like your table top, change it. It's your table.

I use Minwax on my table 

because it's recommended for 'Wood' :lol::razz:

Posted

Actually, wax is all I ever used on my table saw, drill press or anything else that might rust. Maybe I'll just take the "easy" way out and just wax mine too. I was going to ask what kind of wax but then I remembered that I used to use Johnson's Floor Wax. It worked great.

 

Ray

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