Fish Posted October 13, 2013 Report Posted October 13, 2013 Anyone try using spray glue to put 1/8" plexiglass on your scrollsaw table? It will make the table much smoother but take a little blade depth away. Think it would be worth a try? I don;t remember where I saw this.. Quote
Phantom Scroller Posted October 13, 2013 Report Posted October 13, 2013 Can't say I've ever seen that used, I have used ply before not perspex. Roly Quote
grampa Posted October 13, 2013 Report Posted October 13, 2013 I think double sided tape would work just as well........paul Quote
heppnerguy Posted October 13, 2013 Report Posted October 13, 2013 I once made an overlayed plywood table that slid into place and was easy to remove..It worked OK but wasn't worth the effort to me so I abandon it. I wanted to raise the table area in hopes of cutting with a different part of my blades thus getting a longer blade life..Like I said before, it wasn't worth it to me. . I have seen where other people have waxed the top of the saw or sprayed something on it to make it easier to slide their work on it. I have never felt a need to that myself, The table seems to work great for me. Quote
amazingkevin Posted October 13, 2013 Report Posted October 13, 2013 I use a piece of formica spray glued on .it cleans very good and is very slippery with wood on it.been using it for years ,same piece.I would not like to go back to metal tops again ,no benefit in that. Phantom Scroller and Doug 2 Quote
Phantom Scroller Posted October 13, 2013 Report Posted October 13, 2013 I use a piece of formica spray glued on .it cleans very good and is very slippery with wood on it.been using it for years ,same piece.I would not like to go back to metal tops again ,no benefit in that. Kevin that is a good idea I had forgotten about formica I used to use that on table tops back in the 70's and get high on evostick glue. Roly Quote
amazingkevin Posted October 13, 2013 Report Posted October 13, 2013 It's very thin and you don't lose but one tooth on a blade having it on the table. Quote
Fish Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Posted October 13, 2013 Formica is an even better idea. Where could I get that? Menards,Lowes? Quote
oldhudson Posted October 14, 2013 Report Posted October 14, 2013 Formica is an even better idea. Where could I get that? Menards,Lowes? I made a router table a couple years ago and picked up Formica at HD. But I had to purchase a whole sheet - 8 feet. I have lots left in the garage, I think I'll try some on the scroll saw. Quote
amazingkevin Posted October 14, 2013 Report Posted October 14, 2013 cabinet shops have plenty and probable for free if you don't care what color .you only need a little bit! Quote
Jim Finn Posted October 14, 2013 Report Posted October 14, 2013 "...... I wanted to raise the table area in hopes of cutting with a different part of my blades thus getting a longer blade life....." To achieve this longer blade life I cut 3/4" off the bottom of my worn blades and reinstall and use them this way. I use standard Polar blades so loosing the teeth at the bottom does not effect my cut. My saws will work with these shorter blades. Not sure all saws will though. Quote
heppnerguy Posted October 14, 2013 Report Posted October 14, 2013 That is an interesting take on this. I will give it a try and see.. great idea if it works. thanks Jim Quote
tvman44 Posted October 14, 2013 Report Posted October 14, 2013 I like the Formica idea and I happen to have a couple of large pieces sitting in my warehouse that I just did not have the heart to throw out just knowing that someday I would have a use for it. It has only been there for 10+ years. Quote
OCtoolguy Posted April 5, 2015 Report Posted April 5, 2015 I tried cutting a accessory table top for my saw out of 1/4 " masonite. I drilled holes on the underside for magnets. It worked well until the masonite started to warp a bit. Now, it has enough uplift that it pulls away from the saw. I think I'll try the 1/8" lexan or plexiglass method. I like the sound of that. I don't want to glue anything down to the table but may have to resort to that if my idea doesn't work out. Great info here on this forum. Thanks all, Ray Quote
ike Posted April 5, 2015 Report Posted April 5, 2015 (edited) all i have done is wax the table about once a week and I have no com-planes. I use a past turtle wax. IKE Edited April 5, 2015 by ike LarryEA, tomsteve and Lucky2 3 Quote
LarryEA Posted April 5, 2015 Report Posted April 5, 2015 all i have done is wax the table about once a week and I have no com-planes. I use a past turtle wax. IKE Me too Ike. No modification, just wax. As for the blades, I move an old blade up or down to cut with some new teeth. tomsteve and Lucky2 2 Quote
Multifasited Posted April 6, 2015 Report Posted April 6, 2015 Some sendoff and teflon coat ,some have plated with plexiglas ,some have installed formica .all must have been prefectly done no voids or bubbles or sharp edges ,but few brag about the improvements ,makes me wonder ,I just keep mine clean and waxed till the rave reviews come in . Quote
LarryEA Posted April 6, 2015 Report Posted April 6, 2015 It's very thin and you don't lose but one tooth on a blade having it on the table. * But Kevin, that would depend on the number of teeth on the blade. A sheet of wax paper might cause a lose of two teeth on some blades and none on others. * Point two ... Babies lose teeth * if you don't like your table top, change it. It's your table. I use Minwax on my table because it's recommended for 'Wood' Quote
OCtoolguy Posted April 6, 2015 Report Posted April 6, 2015 Actually, wax is all I ever used on my table saw, drill press or anything else that might rust. Maybe I'll just take the "easy" way out and just wax mine too. I was going to ask what kind of wax but then I remembered that I used to use Johnson's Floor Wax. It worked great. Ray tomsteve 1 Quote
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