Polar Vs Ultra Reverse Blades

[TXScrollsawartist]

I wanted the opinions of other scrollers on the pros and cons of the Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse.

 

I have been using the Flying Dutchman Polar and New Spiral blades for years and years. Depending on the project, I use Polar #3, #5, & #7 and New Spiral #1 & #3. I like how tough they are, how fast I can cut with them and how I can get good cutting time on each blade. The negative - in my mind - is the amount of rip out and fuzzies which need burning and sanding to get rid of.

 

Based on a recommendation, I bought some Flyng Dutchman Ultra Reverse #3 and #5. The good points of the Ultra Reverse is how clean it cuts - no rip out or fuzzies - and how tight I can cut on delicut sections. The negatives are that they cut slower and dull faster then the Polar. I think I will treat them like a specialty tool that I only use in specific situations.

 

As I see it the Polar is a tough blade that has good cutting time but creates rip outs and the Ultra Reverse is a blade that cuts very cleanly and has great control in tight designs but only lasts half the time of an equal size Polar. Is the need to sand extensively worth the cost of using twice as many blades?

 

I am not sure if I am expecting too much from these blades. I will state that I cut aggresively, I stack cut 4 or 5 pieces of 1/8th inch Baltic Birch because I generally cut 10 to 15 of each design in order to have pieces for the art shows I do.

 

Does anybody else have an opinion of the Ultra Reverse?

 

Thanks,

Mike

Edited October 24, 2013 by TXScrollsawartist

[amazingkevin]

I use scroll reverse exclusively as I don't want to sand any if at all.I always get a good hour out of the blades or more.if I break one it's because of being in a rush,or careless  .They are a fragile sort and need respect using them.i love them Have'nt used a polar since I started years and years ago.  

[Tdub4ever]

I've been using the FD-UR #1 and #3s. I know the dent in the end of the blade is the top (I think so). They are sharp and cut very good. But I don't see where people that use them say there are no fuzzies! Everything I cut with them have to be sanded. They leave just as much fuzz as any other blade I have used. They're good blades, I still buy and use them but they leave a lot of fuzz, on top and bottom.

[don in brooklin on]

I use Ultra Reverse almost exclusively for most cutting.  I use Polar blades when doing some compound cutting.

 

On Baltic Birch I get a few fuzzies on the bottom piece that can be used with a little sanding. (usually quick pass on sanding mop)

 

What I really like is how smooth the interior is.  I have done 3/4 inch cherry with UR-5 and get no burning and it is as smooth as glass on inside.

 

Don

[Dan]

The UR blades do leave a little bit of fuzzies on plywood but almost none on hardwood. As for the cost of the blades vs the sanding time, I will spend the extra $ or two on the blades because of how much better the finished produce looks. All blades have a purpose, but some people can get acceptable use for other projects. To me the blades are cheap. If I use 12 blades instead of 6 on a project the cost is about $1.50. That's cheaper than buying a soda or tea at a restaurant.

[TXScrollsawartist]

I am getting sold on them the more I use them. I cut two new stack cut pieces last night and the slight fuzzies that were produced were very easily sanded off.

 

Anybody was to buy 6 or 7 gross of various sized Polars?

 

Thanks for the comments and insight. This is what I was hoping to get from this group.

Mike

[daddy_tindell]

I was wondering about this as well...I have been using UR and puzzle blades for everything...was curious about the Polars. Guess I need to buy a few and give em a go...lol

[Tdub4ever]

After all the posts about the UR blades, I'm wondering what kinda blades I'm really using. I just cut these about an hour ago out of 1/2" popla using FD-UR #3 and they are full of fuzzies. Are the blades in the pic the ones you're talking about?

[TXScrollsawartist]

Don,

 

Two points. If you would have used an FD-Polar #3 or #5 you would have had tear outs - not just fuzzies -  on the bottom side of a piece of 3/4 poplar. I think if you used an UR #5 you might not have as many fuzzies.

 

Does anybody else know about increasing the size to a UR #5 for cutting hardwood?

 

Mke

[Barry5180]

I usually use the FD-#2/0 spirals for most of my portrait work and the FD-UR for most everything else. I almost never use anything larger than a #5 but I also have a set of thick wood blades that I use for cutting toy parts from 2x4 material. Those give me more control than the bandsaw.

 

Barry

[Tom J]

I recently cut some stand up puzzles from 3/4 " Oak, Birch and Walnut Using FD-UR#7 Blades.  No fuzzies to speak of except on the Walnut which had a little bit.  I also cut 1/2" Mahogany using a FD-UR#5 and it did have a few fuzzies but not as much as your Poplar is showing.  I think the softer woods end up with more fuzzies that the harder ones.

 

Tom

[Gary Beasley]

I've learned that polar blades are superior for cutting corian and plastics and anything else that heat buildup makes problems with.

What happens with UR is the material welds itself back together as you cut, most annoying.

[sullyscroller]

I use #5 FDUR all the time on ply and other hardwoods. Poplar is a rotten hardwood to scroll with because it is much like pine and cedar except it is classified as a hardwood mainly because it looses it's leaves in the fall. I prefer not to use it for my scrolling due to the fuzzies.

 

sully

[Jim Finn]

I use Flying Dutchman Polar #5 blades... but then I do not do any fretwork and rarely cut plywood. I mostly do inlay work. I have some Flying Dutchman heavy duty blades that I finally found a good use for:  Stack cutting through seven layers of Masonite paneling making lettered signs.  Polar # 5's also work but the heavy duty blades seem to last longer.  No fuzzies with either blade.

[WolfmoonCT]

Every FD blade I've tried leaves those fuzzy's like Tdub's pics.  the Olson scroll reverse dont leave any of that when i cut.  Perfectly smooth as glass, and no fuzzy what so ever.

[heppnerguy]

It is said that there is  no perfect blade.  What might work best for me may not work so well for you, That is what I have seen so many times. So my advice would be , try as many as you like, you will need to probably take notes on which blades you like best on different thinknesses and types of blades and decide for yourself, which you like working with best. some love spiral blades while others find them to not make the qulity of cuts they wish to have and visa versa. so it is an individual thing, I believe. I would never ignore others suggestions but i would still try them and see for myself.

 

Good luck on finding the 'perfect blades' for you

 

Dick

heppnerguy