Wood Question

[browders]

Here in Northwestern Montana, wood suitable for wood working is tough to find. We are surrounded by forests, but alas, not the right kind. Being somewhat miserly, I have come to rely on scraps from cabinet making friends, old flooring, and old furniture from thrift stores.  These all work wel which brings me to my question. Most of this wood is 3/4" thick. Most of my projects are 1/2" or less. What I have been doing is planing the wood to the correct thickness. The unfortunate result is that 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the product ends up as sawdust on the floor. I was wondering if a band saw would be appropriate to rip the wood to the correct thickness (or nearly so) thereby making more of the boards useable? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[heppnerguy]

 I am in the mids of trying to solve that very same thing.. I have a new bandsaw blade on my saw but it was too agressive so I put on another blade I had with closer teeth and it broke at the weld in seconds    ordered anothe blade last night    anxious to see the answers posted here

[Dan]

I do that all the time. If I'm making ornaments, instead of spending cash on 1/4" or 1/8" hardwood, I just take thicker boards (3/4" or thicker) and resaw them. Then I run them through the thickness planer. I can do a lot in less time than it takes to drive to the store, buy the wood, and drive back. And I get more for my money.

[amazingkevin]

 A HA HELP IS HERE .I WATCH MY FRIEND THROW AWAY SO MUCH WOOD TO THE SAW DUST PILE WHILE PLANEING DOWN 2" THICK WOOD .I THINKING THAT IF YOU CUT TRIPS ON THE TABLE SAW AND GLUE THEM TOGETHER  LITTLE WASTE.ALSO THE THINNER THE STRIPS THE THINER THE GLUED BOARD WILL BE .JUST A THOUGHT  WHICH I TO WILL TRY SHORTLY.UNLESS SOMEONE SUGGESTS AGAINST IT  OR HAS A BETTER SOLUTION.CHIME IN  GROUP!  

[oldhudson]

I re-saw stock with a ShopSmith band saw. It's not too difficult. If you have flooring material that's 3/4 and you want to make it 1/2 it should not be a problem. I'd cut it about 9/16" and plane it to final dimenion.  I use 1/2" resaw blade with 4 tpi. The brand I've been using is Timberwolf. Just like with scroll sawing the blade and tension are important. With the bandsaw you'll proablly get some 'drift' too so watch for that. Make test cuts without a fence to determine the drift.  I use a STRIGHT piece of stock, make a line parallel to one edge and hand feed it into the blade staying on the line. Then adjust you fence to the angle needed. I'm sure you can find a U tube vid that explains this process.   

[browders]

Thanks guys. Great suggestions. I'm glad to see there is a solution. 

[sullyscroller]

I don't mind the chips i make from planing as i spread them on my flower beds as mulch. Doesn't solve yer problem but hey it might be useful to gardeners .

 

sully

[Clayton717]

I have also resawn boards to get the thinner stock I wanted/ needed.

[Phantom Scroller]

I resaw on my bandsaw all the time cutting up large logs to waffer thin veneer it's all down to the blade I found.

The blade that comes with the saw is usually rubbish.

I did see a video on youtube on sharpen a bandsaw blade and he tested the new blade before using and then after sharpening the new blade and you would not believe the difference it made in speed of cutting.

 

Roly

[WolfmoonCT]

I do that all the time. If I'm making ornaments, instead of spending cash on 1/4" or 1/8" hardwood, I just take thicker boards (3/4" or thicker) and resaw them. Then I run them through the thickness planer. I can do a lot in less time than it takes to drive to the store, buy the wood, and drive back. And I get more for my money.

 

I do the same thing as Dan.  I buy all rough cut lumber.  If I'm doing my usual thickness of 3/8" i can resaw the wood in half, joint and edge glue it, then surface it plane it down to thickness later.  If i am going for thinner, I can usually get 3 cuts in a single 4/4 rough cut board.  I try not to resaw pieces that are wider than 3" just because I'm still working out keeping the blade from bowing in much wider pieces. Just don't skimp on the bandsaw blades.. I accidently  cut through a couple screws with my Olson blade. My father had a Vermont American blade of the same size, brand new, and i figured I would throw it on..  that VA  blade bows soooo much more than my Olson.  The Olson barely bowed at all. The VA blade on same tension setting for same TPI and blade width.. bows about a good 1/4" in the same wood..  It's going in the trash when i replace the blade next year.  this year's season for me is coming to and end because my garage is too cold in the winter, so I just don't see a need to replace it right now.

[Jim Finn]

"..... I was wondering if a band saw would be appropriate to rip the wood to the correct thickness (or nearly so) thereby making more of the boards useable? Any suggestions would be appreciated."

When cutting boards to a thinner thickness (Re-sawing), I use a 5/8"  3 TPI carbide saw blade I got from Grizzly. I have a re-saw fence and have no "drift" problem with these blades. I re-saw eastern red cedar mostly and do about 350 board feet a year. I buy one inch rough stock and re-saw it to the 3/8" thickness I use to make boxes. I also re-saw maple to use in my in-lays. A light pass though my planer is required after re-sawing.