Framing Portraits

[vykus]

I am wondering how people frame their portraits, I am finding that I end up to thick for the frame, do you leave the glass out, put another piece over the back or some other method. I would love to know. 

[WolfmoonCT]

I've only done a couple, but I used 1/8" BB ply to cut them.  I left the glass in, put the cut out, then used the original cardboard piece that was with frame to fill in the gap between the glass and the back when you buy it, sprayed it black to act as the background, and everything  fit perfect.

[amazingkevin]

I don't frame ,I just can't get it right, something messes up everytime.lol I waste too much wood trying to get it right  

[heppnerguy]

somewhere on the Village someone posted a link about frame building. I think it might have been our own, Travis, but I am not certain about that. I believe if you ask about the frame building video someone will be happy to direct you right to it. My memory is a little thin and I don't recall exactly where it is.

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[LarryEA]

You kinda lost me. I guess you're talking about buying a frame and using it for a frame around a scroll sawn portrait. Well, no solution from me ... but a couple stupid suggestions (that won't work or satisfy what you want).

1) If you can, route the groove deeper

2) make your own frame

Actually what I do is: Make the scroll work a frame with the portrait scrolled in the frame. This requires strategic planning of bridges or braces to hold the pattern you are cutting to the frame.

No glass when you do this. Then I add a piece on the back to accentuate and support the cuts.

 

Here is a little more confusion on how to size your 'shop made' frame.

 

If you know the size of the picture you are framing.
Frame stock width, subtract the rabbet width, multiply by 2, add to height and width of picture.
Frame stock width = 2", minus 1/2" rabbet = 1 1/2" X 2 = 3".
8" X 10" picture, outside measurement of the frame will be 11" X 13".
You can always add 1/16" if you want the frame a little loose. Use any numbers you want, just follow the formula.  (Mike wrote this formula, blame him, not me)

 

Have fun... whew...that was fun

Larry
 

 

Edited November 6, 2013 by LarryEA

[vykus]

I work out of a one car garage with a serious budget constraint. Most of my frames are from good will. I have no router, ban saw, table saw or much else. Making a frame is just out of bounds right now.

[Clayton717]

I used to make my own frames, now I buy the wood frames from Walmart, and Meier for a few bucks each. I use 1/8" Baltic birch and matting (thick posterboard) this gives me enough room for glass, cutting,matt, and frame back.

[sullyscroller]

I make all my own frames. Most of the time they are 5/8 - 3/4 thick and i dado a groove in the back 3/8" deep and 3/8 wide on my table saw. I say dado as i use a dado blade not a rabbeting bit on my router table - just easier for me. I miter the corners on my miter saw, round over the edges and nail with a frame v-nailer. then i sand and finish. I use 1/4" ply for my portraits and nail them into the frames with a Logan point stapler. No glass just felt on the back. hope this helps. Frames are not hard to make just time consuming one at a time. I do 30 frames at a time to have them ready when needed.

 

sully

[WolfmoonCT]

The frames I use are from Family Dollar.  Designed to fit 8 1/2 x 11" pieces..

[amazingkevin]

OUR OWN MESSMAN RAN HIS WAY OF DOING "MEASURELESS FRAME MAKING"I SHOULD HAVE PAYED ATTENTION!

[Dan]

Not sure if this would work, but I think so. Cut some thin (1/2" wide) strips of 1/8" plywood to go around the back of the frame. Glue them in place. This will give you an extra 1/8" thickness where the portrait goes. This is assuming your portrait is cut from 1/8" stock. 

[Phantom Scroller]

Here's how to make a frame a bit of hot melt glue instead of tape, cut any pattern.

 

Roly

 

Edited November 6, 2013 by Phantom Scroller

[edward]

I buy my frames at A C More for $4   8x10 and there rteal nice wood, use to buy them at walmart and there real crap.  edward

[MrsN]

I buy frames from the craft stores or good will. I mat the portrait and frame in the next biggest size.  I back my portraits with felt. 

 

Depending on how the cardboard backer attaches to the frame, you can force everything back together. if the cardboard has the tabs that rotate into a grove, reversing the cardboard and using a pick to lock the tabs in place. (that sounds way complicated, I will try to get some pictures sometime soon)

 

I get all of the layers as secure as I can, then lock them in place with a few generous blobs of hot glue on each side.

 

The last thing I do when framing pieces is to cover the back side with kraft paper. I use hot glue to seal it around all 4 sides. It makes the framing job look more professional and hides any ugly things I have done.

 

I have a project that is ready for a frame, I will take some pictures to explain my process, hopefully before the weekend

Katie

[heppnerguy]

This is all  helpful to me too.. I need to make a note so that I can refer back to this post in the future...Lots of good ideas.. Framing is one more of my weaknesses..It sounds like I have no strength at all... but I am sure that I must..........somewhere...........let me think.............still thinking.................

 

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[Travis]

I use a premade frame.  I leave the glass in so I don't have to dust it.  I use black felt behind the cutting, then use the cardboard backer that came with the frame to hold it all together.  I just sandwich everything together and the pressure of the clips holds everything in place.

 

Good Will you can find some nice frames.  Keep a can of black spray paint on hand in case you need to paint any black (I'm partial to black frames).  You can also use some moldings from a home improvement store.  Get a cheap handsaw and miter box and you can make some frames yourself.

[vykus]

I don't us black felt, I found a a fade resistant paper at an art supply store, I use 3M spray adhesive to adhere it to the board behind the portrait. I didn't want the backing to fade if the portrait is in the sun after being purchased, and I wanted to save space within the frame. now that I am more secure in my skills I am going to switch from 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch baltic birch and that should make it much easier to frame.