Routering curved edges

[Overfifty]

 I would like to fit finished pieces into oblong bases, the out-to-out size of the base varies dependant on the project, but usually an inch thick. I have the material, and I have the router and several bits thanks to the father-in-law. The router is properly affixed to a router table. The problem is the only experience I have with routers is cutting out window frames in wall sections. If I take the router out of the table and do it by hand I'm liable to end up with a finished edge on the base that won't have a nice finished edge (basically a mess). I've been to most of the handyman sites on the web and youtube. Any suggestions... perhaps a site I may have missed? Thank you, Barry.

Edited December 12, 2013 by Overfifty

[sullyscroller]

Barry, not 100% sure what you're asking but i think you want to make a base then router the edge with a router and this is better done with the router mounted in the table. use a bit with a bearing and the better the quality bit the better your edge will be. I like the round over edge best ,it's simple and easy to sand.

 

sully

[LarryEA]

Barry, Sully has your solution.
A roller bearing router bit solves your problem (I think) .
Just use some scrap material to adjust the edge you want.
AND...A router bit will put an edge on anything including a finger!!
Play Safe!!

Larry

Edited December 12, 2013 by LarryEA

[Overfifty]

Thank you both. The dilemma I have is do I free hand it, or somehow fabricate some sort of jig, and if so, how?

[Phantom Scroller]

Barry as long as you have a rubber mat under it, it should not move and you just router in a circle around it.

 

Roly

[oldhudson]

IMHO the best site for router info is routerforums.com - good people over there.

 

If i'm routing an irregular shape I make a template either from 1/4" Masonite or 1/2" mdf. Both are easy to work. I use the template to mark the stock and cut it close to the line with a scroll saw, jig saw or band saw, based on what you have in your shop. After it's rough cut, use double sided tape to affix the template to your stock. Chuck up a pattern bit (I like the spiral bits. They're spendy but don't tear up the wood as much as stright bits do. There is an excellent article on router bits for pattern routing in the current issue of Fine Woodworking #238) Set the height so the bearing on the pattern bit lines up with the template and route. If your cutting hardwood be very careful of the grain direction. It can throw the stock in a 'climbing' cut. And 1" thick is a lot of stock to remove.

 

I hope this makes sense, I didn't have any pictures to post.

[sullyscroller]

Here is a router table by sears craftsman and a roundover bit with the bearing. the bit can be used without the table or freehand so to say. I prefer to use my router table 100% of the time because i can control the work and not be concerned about the router itself. The fence can be removed for routing curved edges. The vacume port really helps to suck up dust too

 

sully

[Overfifty]

Thank you everyone. Sounds like it's best if I leave the router in the table and "freehand" the piece around it. I'll make a couple of practice runs with some scrap, and sand out any imperfections on the finished edge afterwards. Cheers, Barry.

[heppnerguy]

I am glad the question was asked because,even though I have used a router a few times, there is such a look time that passes between uses that I am always uncertain about whether I can even do it again. this is a good read for me..

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[amazingkevin]

Me too i need to use the router very soon and am not sure which way to feed the router .