Dremel blades

[vykus]

The saw I use right now is a Dremel (see attached pict). I have had it since sept. and have never felt like I could get the blade tension tight enough. Today I was just sick of it so I took a wire cutter and took off about 3/8 inch from the top of the blade. It fit so much better and I could actually get it tight enough. I think part of the problem is that my dremel is set up take pin blades as well and so the it is set up shorter. My control increased exponentially. Has anyone else ever had a similar problem? 

 

 

PS... I meant 3/16 above not 3/8

Edited December 27, 2013 by vykus

[oldhudson]

I always snip off 1/8-3/16 from the Olson blades on my Delta. Figured there was enough difference in saws that this wasn't unusual?

[amazingkevin]

these are the parts dremil sent me .the 1830 is for the weekend warrior. i would'nt recomend this saw to any body thats loves to scroll.the top arm and the connecting link  and the roll pins is all you need to get the saw back up and running.I've had the parts 3 years at least and will now put them in and leave outside for special cuts like angle cuts on project bases.I wore out the first 1830 just short of a year by days and dremil sent me a brand new one back .i wore that one out in two months.not a work horse at all.so if you need to cut your blades to get them to fit in these are what you need.

[LarryEA]

Matt,
Gee sounds interesting. Never had a thought to do that.
I need an explanation as to why that makes a difference
and why you even thought to do that.
My first saw was a Dremel and I did not have that problem
As I see it, you lose teeth to cut with.
When I use a new blade, I clamp it so a minimal amount is showing at the top.
After I cut for a while, I move the blade up so that I have a few more new teeth
for cutting. I think I get more use out of the blade this way.
So please clue me in.
Thanks

Larry

Edited December 27, 2013 by LarryEA

[vykus]

I do use olson blades so that might be the problem. I would get a better saw if I had the money. I got this one for $75 off craigs list not knowing much about scrolling or what I could do with it. I ended up loving it. but I am stuck with this for the foreseeable future.  Larry the problem  comes in when you try to put the blade in. You slide it ass far as possible into the bottom and then into the top as far as it will go. then you go to set the tension. you turn the knob and then flip over the top. I would do this and tighten as far as it would let me and it would still be looser that I liked. taking a little off the top of the blade I can still get it firmly into both top and bottom and when I go to tighten I now have room left over. since the bottom of the blade has not moved it does not affect the reverse cut at all. 

[Clayton717]

I used that saw for many years ( about 10 ), and never had to cut the blades. I would of bought a new one, if they still made them. Itwas a good saw for me.

[Jim Finn]

I have cut the bottom 3/4" off of used blades and installed them back in the saw.  New teeth then cut the wood.    All my saws allow this but I am not sure other saws will adjust to the shorter blade.